The first part; Choosing a man’s cologne, is here

Having written the first article we realised that there is no real guide to how men’s colognes smell.  So we wrote this article. Here are our top twenty colognes, divided into five categories.  If you find this useful, let us know.  We intend to do more on this subject.

Our articles on dressing well for dating start here (article 1 of 5)

Classic men’s colognes.

We start with the classics, because most of us will have heard of these and we using these, we can start to get ourselves on a common footing. 

Men’s perfume classics have made a huge comeback, revived initially by the new Italian fashion designers, who like them for their complexity and rich combination of scents.  The great thing about the classics is their reliability, you know what you are getting.  They also date from a period when men’s fragrances were more discreet, so they lack the orchid and aromatic wood- heavy notes of today’s best-selling colognes.  This means that if you are unsure about colognes, you can start with a classic fragrance, it is unlikely to be too extreme a smell.

Eau Savage

A clean, fruity, sharp smell, very sexy, lots of hot floral smells and leather.  Young, masculine, lively, a statement cologne.  After it wears in you have a slightly acid leather and lemon scent, which is appealing and noticeable.  If you are fit, engaging, dress with a clean sharp look, then its dry, musk and fruit smell is for you.  If you are slightly overweight, losing hair, classic style, sorry, it’s not really for you.  This is also a strong-smelling cologne, so do not douse yourself in it.  You want to smell good, not overpower your audience.

Eau Sauvage - dry, floral, acid - the original manly cologne

Givenchy Monsieur (Givenchy Gentleman)

Cary Grant’s favourite cologne, which says it all really.  A complex, very long-lasting scent, with some deep notes of amber and wood mixed with a fresh rich floral topnote.  For the classic man really, it works wonderfully for the older man.  A superb day-time cologne, it says worldly, ladies man, gentleman.  A true ladykiller.

This is one of my two preferred day colognes, along with Chanel’s Egoiste (see below).  Most times I wear Givenchy Monsieur because the Egoiste is a little big for daywear.

Givenchy Monsieur - Cosmopolitan and sophisticated

Aqua Di Parma

Has had a huge comeback with modern fashion designers singing its praises.  Floral, ostentatious, a little goes a long way.  A slight spicy undernote makes it as Italian as can be while having a classic musk base.  A good cologne and, for the immediate future at least, a talking point.  Technically a mid-range cologne, it is good for the man who is looking for a middle of the road cologne to enhance a classic image.  

Aqua Di Parma - a much loved classic

L’Homme Roger et Gallet

For those men who think colognes make them girly.  This is woody, salty, has the tang of astringent herbs.  If you are a crocodile hunter, special forces soldier, or arctic explorer, L’Homme Roger et Gallet is for you.  The most masculine.  Ever.  Wear it when you are going to take down a full-grown grizzly, armed only with a Bowie knife. 

I used to wear this all the time when I was finding my way with colognes.  Women love it but you have to be right for it.  I was not, but still wear it occasionally, it brings back fond memories.  Out of fashion now, but definitely due a revival.  

L'Homme Roger et Gallet - a truly masculine cologne

Light Fragrances

Issey Miyake man

(L’Eau D’Issey pour homme).  This is light, smells of exotic woods, a faint smell of orchids and salt mist, the slightest smell of herbs.  If you are a slim man or of compact build, your style is discreet, neat, orderly, this will work well for you.  A thing of beauty. 

Issey Miyake for men - Light, elegant, stylish

Canali Men

Light, fragrant, lots of citrus and floral notes, yet distinctive and classy.  It lasts well for a light cologne and after a while has a slight soft undertone of exotic flowers.    Definitely one for the ladykillers, but not really for your Aunt’s summer lunch party.  A light cologne, but quite showy, it has an impact.  Canali have produced something really fine here, it is clearly Italian but modern and young.  I would recommend this for men in their twenties.  

Canali - spirited, sexy and elegant

Egoiste Platinum

Egoiste gets two write-ups here, because it is such a versatile cologne.  Egoiste Platinum is the lighter of the two Egoistes.  It was specifically designed for the younger man, based on the best-selling original.  It has the sharp coriander and oriental balm scents of the original but has more flower scents, lavender and jasmine predominate.  Light and good for day-wear, once again a good young man’s cologne.         

Armani Code

This is light, clean, sexy and a definitive smell.  A little young, but striking, a scent of exotic florals and spices.  There is a tangy mineral/herb edge to this one, so it definitely has body.  Light but with an athletic personality.

Armani Code - young, definitive, clean-smelling

Complex mid-range fragrances

Paul Smith Men

This is a really useful cologne.  It has a light herby Englishness about it but with a quirky spicy edge that is very present when you apply it.  However the spiciness wears away to leave undertones of warm florals and a surprising level of musk.  You might say it becomes sexier as time wears on.  A good all-rounder, it is noticeable but not obstrusive.  An excellent cologne, especially for men just beginning with colognes or men whose style is subtle and understated.

If you feel confident, are creative, have that extra zing, then I recommend Paul Smith Extreme.  More spicy, with lush notes of Bergamot and exotic herbs, it still has the underlying musk but now overlaid by a bolder, more oriental scent.  This is an attention-grabber.  Whatever you do, do not spray this on ten seconds before you enter the room.

Paul Smith Extreme - quirky, spicy, lots of character

Burberry Men

This is a very good mid-range day cologne.  Slightly astringent, slightly herby, with enough musk and body to wear through a day.  A clean, slightly minty smell, very classic and pleasing.    

Burberry Men - clean, fresh, slightly herby

Egoiste – Chanel

This is a superb cologne.  Egoiste straddles the line between the mids and the bigs, it has enormous character but is also subtle and light.  It has a distinctive oriental, woody smell.  There is a crisp smell of coriander, lemon and light notes but this cologne has a real spine and it is held up by a woody and heavy floral note.  The end result is a complex confident, prosperous smell that lasts really well.

 Too new to be a classic but I am sure it will become one.  Quite rightly, a best-seller since its launch. Ignore the other Chanel men’s colognes, they are not good.  Chanel have never equalled Egoiste since they launched it.

Egoiste - fresh, floral but full of character

Tom Ford – Classic

Tom Ford understands style in a way that few people do.  To me, Tom Ford classic smells like a modern version of Eau Sauvage, without the overtly sexual fruity acid topnote smell of Eau Sauvage.  Which is a good and clever thing.  This is a floral fragrance with some spice and some amber.  Complex and superbly mixed, this smells like a worldly man, lots of scents but is a subtle, beguiling smell.  As it wears in, it develops into a light, fresh, slightly floral slightly spicy scent.  Good stuff and (I think) destined to become a modern classic.   

Tom Ford Classic

The bigs

Complex strong scents, for the big man, be it big style, big size or big presence.

Terre D’Hermes

Big, rich, very woody, a smell of orchids and leather.  Lots of earthy musk underpinning all of this.  It is very longlasting, the floral notes give way to a warm woody spiciness with a hint of amber and leather.  Very powerful, for the mature man, needs a strong presence to carry it.  The sophisticated man at night.  My personal favourite.     

Terre D'Hermes - Rich, woody, pungent

Valentino Homme

Yes, the Italian designer.  Spicy, big, intense, very flamboyant and noticeable.  Lots of orchid and rare spices, a complex scent with bergamot, exotic wood and musk, Italian to the core. If you are the star of your show, here is your scent.  Party scent  for the successful man.  

Valentino Men - big and showy

Zegna Intenso

What it says on the bottle.  Intense, deep floral scent with a fruit and spice complexity to lighten it.  A musky ostentatious scent, a little is enough, it is very noticeable.  In my experience, women love this scent, are provoked to comment on it.  Left my bottle in a hotel in Spain, keep meaning to buy some more. 

Zegna Intenso - intense, sexy, fun

Black Tea – Murdock

My god.  This is potent stuff.  Smells of wood, tobacco, burnt spices and a manly musk.  Put it on, it is spicy and warm but insistent, you can smell the leather and tobacco, a slight hint of tea, oriental spices.  A warm dry smell, it wears in and carries all of its scents confidently.  This is one of the most long-lasting colognes I have ever worn, I put it on at 14.00 and it was still working strongly at midnight.  

This is the Alpha Male of scents.  Lets be blunt, this one says big male animal, looking for sex.  Here’s a context for you.  As a yong actor, before he became a movie star, Oliver Reed was one of the most good-looking men alive.  He had a good-looking devil face, thick dark hair, a confident, insolent look and a devil-may-care presence.  Women adored him.  Black Tea by Murdock is the distilled essence of Oliver Reed and I mean that as a real compliment.  

Murdock Black Tea - Dry, spicy, leathery, truly masculine

Latins

I had to give the Latins some space of their own.  These are romantic, big men’s colognes and they are the boldest of them all. 

L’Occitane

L’Occitane are a Provencal cosmetics company that specialise in the fragrances and balms from that region.  Primarily a women’s brand, like a lot of French houses they have an extensive men’s range.  Sometimes I wear their Eau De L’Occitane pour Homme.  I would never have bought this myself, my wife bought it for me but I like it.  Funny really, because I have an ongoing love affair with Provence.    

This is a sharp, very spicy scent, with lots (and lots) of juniper, exotic herbs and flowers in it.  Not a shy scent.  I wear it when I need a cologne that can hold it’s own, such as at a summer day party, or a barbecue.  This is not an expensive or complicated men’s cologne but is fun, sexy scent.                 

Warning.  In my experience, some of L’Occitane’s men’s colognes can be overwhelming.  For example I find their men’s Verbena completely overpowering.  Try before you buy.

Narcisco Rodriguez – Men

Spanish designer, who has made a name for himself with his sophisticated womenswear, reinterpreting women’s classics and producing a dark, sexy look.  I sampled his Narcisco Rodriguez Men recently.  This is most definitely a big cologne.  In fact this is very heavy.  It is a heavily floral cologne, a big scent of orchids, a deep sweetness balanced by a heavy musk layer.   It has some undertones of wood but is primarily a strong floral smell, very opulent and quite decadent.  A showbiz perfume, movie-star-at-the-premiere men’s cologne.   

Narcisco Rodriguez for men - Heavy, floral and powerful

Adolfo Dominguez – Black

Warm scents of oranges and spices, some wood.  It smells like a hot, sunny day in Seville, with some sharp flowers thrown into the mix.  A bit less heavy than the others, the scent is lighter and not so penetrating.  This might be a good Latin cologne for a younger man.

Black by Domingues - spicy and Spanish

Carolina Herrera 212 Men

Carolina Herrera 212 Men.  I tried this recently.  Marvellous stuff.  Sophisticated, spicy, complex, lots of rich floral notes, some amber and (I think) a touch of vanilla.  This is aristocratic, prosperous, sexy and confident.  For the successful and aspiring to be successful man.  I am adding this to my core collection.  Carolina Herrera is actually Venuzuelan of Spanish descent, so this is, strictly speaking, a Latim American cologne.  Highly recommended.  

Carolina herrera 212 Men - sophisticated, aristocratic, sexy

The End, for now

So here are twenty men’s fragrances we like, there are of course lots more.  Half the fun with men’s fragrances is finding the good ones.  The other half is of course wearing them. 

As always, your feedback on our choices is most welcome.

So men’s colognes are a mystery to many men.  How do we chose them?  Who do we ask about them?  What are the rules here?

Here are my guidelines.  I hope you find them useful.

For our top 20 picks in Men’s fragrances, go here

For our articles on stylish dress for dating go here (article 1 of 5)

Introduction

I have always enjoyed wearing good men’s colognes.  Partly because I saw myself as a stylish man and that was what stylish men did.  But even as a young man I realised they had a positive effect on women and at that age I needed all the help I could get.

It was my second wife who told me that she was very affected by a man’s smell.  That a man who smelt good had a real (and sexual) effect on her.  Latterly it was my friend Sass who said to me, that from a woman’s perspective, a man who smelt good could be forgiven a lot of other style missteps.

However, I quickly realised that most men only have the vaguest idea about colognes.  I talked to a lot of men, friends and acquaintances, about men’s colognes and came to the conclusion that an article laying out the basics was needed.  Here it is.

What are colognes?

So, firstly, what are talking about here.  At the simplest level perfumes are a mixture of aromatic oils, aroma compounds (flowers, fruits, herbs, woods) and fixatives.  So the proportion and way these constituents are added together determines the smell of the perfume.

Perfumes for men have been around since the early Egyptians and in the past men used them much more widely than now.  The first “Eau de Cologne” was launched in Cologne (where else) in 1709.  Broadly speaking the idea of a man’s “Consumer” fragrance was defined by the first couture designer, Charles Worth, who founded the House of Worth in Paris, back in the 19^th Century.

That’s all the theory we need, onto the practice. 

Basic Rules

You get what you pay for.

Good perfumes take great skill to blend well and contain costly ingredients.  Cheap fragrances, especially men’s, are mostly alcohol and some cheap synthetic scents.  They smell sharp and harsh and are likely to burn out the nasal linings of your date, if not your own. So, especially if you are a beginner in men’s colognes, you want to pay good money for a recognised cologne (notice I did not say Brand).  See Part Two of this article for our recommendations here

Egoiste - one of the most successful colognes of the last 20 years

Men’s fragrances extend along a range, from light fragrances to a middle ground, where fragrances have a greater depth and potency, to colognes which are big both in terms of enduring smell and the complexity of their ingredients.  You need to know what you are buying, because you want something that will suit you.

Colognes react differently depending on the man

The complexity of a good cologne comes into play when it hits the skin of each man.  Your skin, its degree of oilyness, its age, its condition, will all subtly affect how it smells.  So my reviews are slightly distorted by the effect of these colognes on my skin.  However the basic aromas do not change.   

Your colognes – How many do you need?

You should buy colognes that suit you, see below on how to do this.  If, like me, you enjoy wearing colognes, then you will probably own a number.  At minimum, you want to have two colognes, one for the day and one for the night.

Beware! An over-complex market and a confusing array of products

There is a lot of money to be made in fragrances.  Traditionally this was less so in men’s fragrances.  However the men’s market is growing, so we now have all the noise and distraction that the female fragrance market does.  This includes celebrity perfumes, “brand” perfumes and celebrity endorsement campaigns (is there anything that Jude Law does not wear?).   

Types of cologne

There are so many ways to categorise men’s fragrances but we have to put a boundary around them, in order to write about them.  By categorising them from light to big (heavy) we can tie them up to your personal style.  Definitions below.

Light colognes

Floral and fruit odours tend to predominate in these fragrances.  Their scent is usually a light one, without the wet or woody odours provided by musk.  If musk is present, then it is usually muted, so the scent is floral, herby, slightly acid and “clean” smelling.  Sometimes light colognes have a warm, mineral smell, that does not detract from their lightness.  These are often good for younger men, being fresh and light.

Mid-range colognes

These tend to be heavier, with more of the underlying musk which supports heavier aromas.  So perfumes in this range use heavier flower aromas, oriental scents, leather and woody smells begin to appear.  These are complex colognes to blend and their true smell is often less immediate than the light colognes, which have the very obvious floral topnotes to announce them. 

Big (Heavy) colognes

These are strong-smelling colognes with a substantial musk layer.  On this they put more complex, interesting aromas, orchids, tobacco, balsam, leather, amber.  These colognes tend to announce themselves, they have a big presence.  They are complex scents which produce interesting smells as they interact with your skin.  They also tend to be the longest-lasting.  

Valentino for men - a big fragrance

Choosing men’s fragrances

1. Matching fragrances to your style. 

What kind of style do you have?  Are you a big man with a romantic expressive nature?  Then look for a cologne that will suit that personality.  Valentino’s Homme might work for you, a big, romantic fragrance.  Are you a squared-away kind of man, cool, think before you speak, look good in a business suit?  Geoffrey Beene’s Gray Flannel, with its clean, astringent herby smell might work for you. 

The classic (and classy) Grey Flannel

Are you slim, compact, have a relaxed style?  Then a light fragrance with an oriental edge may work for you.  Calvin Klein One might work for you.

Calvin Klein - A brand with many successful fragrances

Think about it.  If you are six-four athletic guy then a floral, herby cologne is probably going to be at odds with your style.  Similarly, if you are a slim, lightly built man, wearing an overpoweringly heavy orchid-scented fragrance, in most cases, it is going to look (smell) incongruous.

So the first thing you are looking for is some style compatibility.    

2. Clear away the distractions

Do not buy celebrity colognes, by David Beckham or anyone else.  They are naked money-making schemes with you as the victim. 

Do not buy cheap brands that promise sexual conquests by the score.  You know, the ones that promise you that the Swedish Bikini Team (look them up) will go to bed with you if you slap it on.  Avoid anything which is advertised on television.

Be very suspicious of brands that do not have a real association with fragrances.  There are “car” colognes, such as the Lamborghini fragrance.  I have not tried this but I really have my doubts. 

3. Narrow the field

Now that you have an idea of style compatibility, pick a group of men’s colognes to try out.  This is research, our recommendations are here.  I suggest that you select a maximum of seven or eight fragrances, because more than that and you will get overwhelmed when you reach the point of testing them.. 

4. Two lists and two trips

Ideally you want a minimum of two fragrances, one for day, one for night.  Make two lists, plan for two separate trips.  For me, a men’s cologne to wear in the evening was most important, so I did that first.  Do not try to buy both fragrances at the same time, it becomes a confusion of aromas. 

5. In-field experience

So go try, and hopefully buy.  As men, we really only want to make one trip, so it either has to be a large chemist/drugstore or a department store.  I prefer department stores, the staff are better trained and give better advice.  Get the advice of the staff, they may have something that you like even better.

As part of my research for this piece I decided on a refresher visit to London’s Selfridges.  I have to compliment the guy who works the Tom Ford concession there.  His name is Fortunata and he really knows his stuff.  He was invaluable in helping me with the Tom Ford fragrances.  Selfridges need to hang on to that guy, he is the male customer’s best friend. 

So my experience as a man is that you can only smell around five or six fragrances before you cannot distinguish one from another.  So avoid distractions, only sample (smell) from your target list.  Avoid distractions, like pretty girls wanting to spray you with stuff.  Incidentally my experience is that women have about twice the capacity as men, for sampling fragrances.  I don’t know if this is simply more experience or something else.    

6. Trying them

So do not wear a fragrance when you go try them out.  It will confuse matters mightily.   Above all, when you try them, do not spray them on your skin.  After you have sprayed the first one, the others are a just a confusion of aromas.

So use the little blotter strips.  Sniff them, keep them (the pocket of your jeans will smell great……).  Take a pen, write the name of the cologne on the strip, add two or three memory joggers, so “Tom Ford, Tuscan Leather, orchids, wood, aromatic moss, leather”.  Simple, at least that way you have something to remember.  Otherwise I find it difficult, how do you remember smells?

Tom Ford - Tuscan Leather

7.  Buy (One)

So it is still an experiment. Take a break for an hour (two hours is better).  Try not to drink any alcohol, which screws with your senses.  Then see how each cologne has matured out.  Buy the one you like the most.

Wearing colognes

Putting it on

After the shower obviously.  Remember that oils help retain the scent, so using a (fragrance-free) moisturiser will help extend the life of the cologne you are wearing.  If your skin is dry the cologne will evaporate more quickly.

Areas to spray

Spray on your cheeks, under your chin and down the throat line.  Spray a little on your upper chest.  A little on the wrists is ok too.  However once is fine, do not overspray. 

And give it time to settle into your skin.  Never spray cologne onto yourself and get into close proximity with someone else.  You want to seduce your date, not overpower her.

Getting Feedback

Three sure ways.

Men

So assuming you put it on right there are two reactions.  A quiet nod means good stuff.  “What’s the aftershave?” is a rave review.  “Damn, Liberace is in the room!” or “Stolen your dad’s aftershave?” or similar means they think it is too strong.

Your date or girlfriend

So you have to remember that a woman’s reaction to anything depends very much on her mood at the time.  So you may not get a true reading the first time.  In fact you may not get any reading.  Rely on your own judgement and continue to wear your chosen cologne.  There are two types of negative reaction. 

Your girlfriend consistently does not notice your aftershave.  This means she does not like it and is being polite.         

She tells you it’s not you.  Keep wearing it.  If she continues with this assessment over time, you need to consider whether she has a point.  Ask her why she does not like it.

Other women

If you wear your cologne to a party and do the kiss-on-the-cheek routine with women other than your girlfriend, here are some responses to look for:

“You smell nice” means your cologne is ok

“You smell really good” means that is a good cologne for you.

“God, you smell so sexy” means that is a great cologne for you.

Rules for wearing colognes.

Do not wear more than one cologne at a time.

Gucci for Men

Do not over-spray yourself

Understand the house rules of the country where you are.  In England, it is considered unprofessional to wear a cologne for work.  Similarly in America, where some organisations have rules in their dress code forbidding men to wear colognes. 

In Italy, many man wear fragrances to work.  In France, my experience (in Banking, Menswear and journalism) is that it is pretty much the same.  In Germany, fragrances are seldom worn at work by older men, though young German men seem to ignore this and wear (quite sharp-smelling) colognes. 

My experience of Russian men, especially younger Russian men, is that they wear a lot of fragrance, often of dubious quality.

To return to where we started, men’s colognes will aid your style and seductive technique enormously.  Once again, it is not simply that you smell good, its that you are capable of picking a good cologne.  It is about your discernment and style. 

Remember, women grow up with cosmetics and perfumes.  Most women will instinctively know if you are wearing a good cologne.  So you get points for discernment, points for good taste and points for having the brains and style to know what women like.  Buy a good cologne.  Nothing is surefire but colognes are very close to it.    

Part 2 continue with our picks for a range of good colognes here.

Here is a very short post on Ahava’s Men’s moisturiser.  I was in the London Ahava store in Covent Garden and one of their staff started talking to me about their men’s products.  They are mineral-based products from the Dead Sea Laboratories Group, who have a reputation for good-quality effective women’s skin care.  I have used Dead Sea mineral products before (though not from Ahava) and found that my skin responds well to them.

So I bought Ahava’s Protective Moisturising Fluid and have been using it as a day moisturiser for a month now and like it. 

Ahava men's protective moisturising fluid

The tub squirts a pearl-sized blob of white cream, which is enough for one application.  The cream is slightly heavier than some other men’s moisturisers, rubs in well and spreads evenly and quickly.  It is refreshing, with a slight toning effect, and has a faint clean flinty astringent smell.  It also acts as an after-shave balm and cools razor-burn.  I have a couple of scars on my face (childhood accident) that are difficult to shave around and I occasionally get razor-burn around them.  The Ahava has a noticeable cooling effect.

Once on, the moisturiser dries matt in around 30 seconds.  It has a whitener in it and gives a light to the skin making it look healthier and cleaner.

One of the things I like most about it is that it is long-lasting.  I have spent several long days in the sun recently and the moisturiser holds up well, my skin does not dry out.  It has a sun protection component (SPF 15) so that helps too.

So a new product for me, and one I will definitely use again, especially when spending a lot of time outdoors.

Details:

 For more on Ahava products, their website is here

Just a brief post on Nickel, as I was in the shop a day or so ago.

Nickel is a bright, modern men’s day spa and men’s cosmetics shop. They are located in London’s Covent Garden, convenient for those of us who work in central London. In fact Nickel are both a spa company and a French men’s cosmetics brand. The upper part of the store comprises the Spa reception and the shops and the Spa treatment rooms are downstairs.

Nickel men

The Spa rooms are well-designed, cutting-edge modern, very quiet and well-equipped. The Spa has a wonderful calm atmosphere and once you are there, it is hard to believe that the bustle of Covent Garden is a just outside. Nickel had a wide range of treatments and I can personally vouch for their facial, (and Nickel’s therapists), which is superb for restoring a tired complexion. If you want to see the full treatment list you can pick it up from the website, details below.

Nickel also sell their own brand cosmetics. Nickel is actually a French company and their skincare, shave and hair products are much better known across the channel and more widely used. I find their products, especially the cleansers and moisturisers, easy to apply and effective. I like the fact that they provide products for both light and dark skin types, a welcome recognition that men come in all shades.

However for me the killer product is their silicon valley anti-aging crème (picture below). This is the best stuff, one application of this will take ten years off your face. It takes the edges off wrinkles, smoothes out your rough skin, scales down the redness of that razor tear you got when you were shaving hung-over.

Nickel silicon valley anti-aging cream

Nickel also sell colognes from a number of top-end brands, including Canali and Loewe. All in all, worth a visit.

Remember this is a popular Spa, with a lot of loyal regular customers. They are open seven days a week but if you want an appointment you really need to book. Marie Campbell runs reception and she is a simply wonderful gal, she can get it sorted for you.

Details:

Nickel Spa London,
27 Shorts Gardens,
Covent Garden,
London WC2H 9AP

Tel +44 (0) 20 7240 4048

www.nickelspalondon.co.uk

I buy my moustache wax from Taylors of Old Bond Street, but even if I did not, I would still go buy something from them, just to shop there. I love the shop.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, Jermyn Street

When I step over the threshold I expect, and get, the most superb service and the best shaving products in the world. I have never left the shop without feeling like their most valued customer. Just knowing Taylors exists is enough to restore my faith in the world.

Taylors of Old Bond Street was founded in 1854, when Queen Victoria was England’s ruler, by Jeremiah Taylor. They are a combined English gentlemen’s cosmetics company (“Toiletries” in the old phrase) and gentleman’s barbers. They were making men’s cosmetics from natural and herbal products before the large cosmetics companies had ever heard the word “organic”.

The same Taylor family run Taylor’s today, the great, great grandson of Jeremiah being in charge. Despite their name, Taylors of Old Bond Street are actually in Jermyn Street, near their peers Trumpers, (and Truefitt and Hill are just the other side of the block).

Taylors sell razors and badger-bristle brushes in the old style (picture below). Their razor and brush kits are very highly esteemed and to my mind, a thoughtful gift if you want to give a gift with English character. Taylors have gift-sets in a manly packaging for those of us who want to do that.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, razors and shaving brushes

Taylors also sell those wonderful old-fashioned colognes, like Eau de Portugal. For me Eau De Portugal is the definitive scent of the traditional barber. The sharp citrus scent as the barber finishes your haircut and clears the tiny cut hairs with a wipe of Eau de Portugal is the fitting end to the ritual. I emerge cleansed and revitalised.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, Eau de Portugal

Taylors also sells the famous Bay Rum cologne, which was once beloved by military men everywhere.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, Bay Rum Cologne

In fact Taylors sell all manner of things a man needs, from shoe-horns to skincare, from travelling kits to toothbrushes (with their logo, of course). If you look on their website you will see all of this and more. Below is a photo of their luxury herbal skin moisturiser which I use extensively. It is easy to work in, has a slight fragrance and is very effective. It s also very competitively priced, at £12.95. A giveaway, as the English market traders like to say.

Taylors of Old Bond Street - luxury herbal skin moisturiser

Also, here is the aforementioned moustache wax, again, highly recommended. It holds form well, is non-greasy and not visible.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, moustache wax

But men’s products are only half the magic of this store. If you walk through the store to the back, where the sales point is, there is Taylor’s barbershop, the “Gentlemen’s Court”.

This is like entering Narnia, going from one world to another. From the main floorspace of the shop the barbershop is not visible. But go to the back, take a slight half-turn and you enter a world of calm manliness, where experienced traditional barbers tend to your every need.

It goes without saying that Taylors shop has class, but the barbershop also has that air of masculine ease which permeates a good barbers. Here you can get a haircut, traditional wet shave and services such as facials, all in the comfort of a traditional leather-upholstered barber’s chair. Nothing is too much trouble and skill and manly competence rule. This is dark wood, barbers in white jackets and of course the smell of Eau de Portugal. Go here, you deserve it. But book in advance, it is a busy shop.

A great shop and an icon of the best of British.

If you cannot get to Taylors, they sell their products by mail order and across the Internet. My last picture is of the front page of Taylors catalogue. Most fittingly it emphasises their service.

Taylors of Old Bond Street - Catalogue

Details:

Taylors of Old Bond Street
74 Jermyn Street,
St James,
London, SW1Y 6NP
England

Tel +44 (0) 20 7930 5544 / 5321

Email: sales@tayloroldbondst.co.uk

www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk

Chinese medicine provides a comprehensive theory and practice, through herbal medicine and acupuncture, to treat many illnesses including specifically male related diseases.  In my Swansea practice I have treated men for many different health problems.

(In this article, Chinese medicine refers to traditional Chinese herbs and acupuncture)     

The treatment of specific men’s diseases in Chinese medicine is known as andrology – this refers to specialised knowledge that describes the physiology of men, as well as the prevention, pathology and treatment of men’s diseases.

Modern Chinese andrology has its roots in ancient literature.  It did not truly emerge in China as a recognisable clinical speciality, with its own professional and systematic literature, until about 30 years ago.  Since its establishment, however, it has continued to develop.  Today there are a number of specialists and researchers of Chinese language sources on andrology.

Andrology as a specialist discipline is usually practised by modern Chinese doctors who practise integrated Chinese-Western medicine, seeking to blend the best of both medicines while striving to maintain the conceptual integrity of each.

The conceptual seeds of andrology in Chinese medicine sprouted over 2000 years ago and many of its ancient root theories still inform the daily clinical practice of modern Chinese andrologists. The principles that are used in practice today in both the East and West have been refined and distilled through use, trial and error, extensive research and development handed down and recorded from generation to generation.

It is interesting to note that the publication of texts on Chinese gynaecology and obstetrics (female reproductive health) in the English language has been happening for many years now.  Yet, apart from one out of print book on urology and male sexual dysfunction, there has not been until now a single English language book on male disorders and men’s health.  This is probably due to the fact that men are more reluctant patients and therefore practitioners have less opportunity to become experts on men’s diseases.

 Men and Treatment

In my practice, very often it is wives or partners that initiate men coming for treatment. Once here, they often commit to a longer-term course of treatment.  However it is arguably true that a general reluctance to talk about and address health issues exists among men.  The possible reasons for this reluctance provoke an interesting discussion and probably in themselves merit a specific paper.

Recently research has been proven showing the effectiveness of Chinese medicine in the treatment of female infertility and in supporting IVF.  This has led to an influx of both woman and men into our practice for infertility treatment. (perhaps

Having practised Chinese medicine for 20 years I have treated a lot of men for a variety of diseases including high blood pressure, neurological diseases such as Parkinsons, MS and MND, asthma, stress, IBS, anxiety insomnia, skin diseases, digestive disorders, prostate problems (benign and malignant) and erectile dysfunction.  I have found Chinese medicine offers practical and effective help for all these problems.

The increasing availability of texts on Chinese andrology in the English language coupled with an increase in men coming for treatment opens up an exiting new area in men’s health.  This is excellent news since the above disorders are extremely common.  Benign prostatic hyperplasia, for example, will give rise to distressing symptoms in half of men in their fifties and up to ninety percent in their eighties. Also, male sub-fertility can be a factor in half of all couple infertility.  In the USA MDs are advised to ask all men over the age of 25 about their erectile health, since erectile dysfunction is often the first, and for a while the only, sign of cardiovascular and other major diseases.

Men’s diseases that Chinese medicine can help with:

Prostatitis

Benign prostatic hyperplasia

Prostate cancer

Erectile dysfunction

Premature ejaculation

Priapism (persistent abnormal and painful erections)

Hematospermia (presence of blood in the ejaculate)

Male infertility

Andropause

The theory of Chinese medicine is expansionist and inclusive and recognises connections and networks within the body called meridians or channels.  With Acupuncture the main intervention is with very fine needles into points on these channels.  Point selection, frequency of treatment and prognosis all depend on the nature of the problem and how long it has been there as well as the overall health and constitution of the patient and how the patient lives.  Stress, diet and lifestyle etc. all play a part.

The actual disease, be it prostatitis or low sperm motility, will define to some extent the treatment received (the points used or the herbs prescribed).  However the overall health and medical history of the patient is taken into account as it is impossible to separate the disease from the person.  Conversely, it is inadvisable to only treat constitutionally and ignore the disease and this is where the new material from China makes an important contribution.  Diseases are categorised (as above) and treatment strategies are outlined; this provides a valuable framework (based on clinical experience) for treating men’s diseases.

In order to illustrate how Chinese medicine can help with the above problems, I will explore two areas in more detail; Male Infertility and Andropause (male Menopause).

Male Infertility                              

Because many cases of male infertility stem from unknown causes and therefore mainstream medical treatment is often unsuccessful, many researchers are looking to alternative and complementary medicine for new ideas about causation and for new treatments.

In Chinese andrology, male infertility is suspected when a couple have been having unprotected intercourse for two or more years and there is no known female factor at play.

In Chinese medicine there are several physiological factors that must come together to allow a man to be fertile. In other words, to the practitioner there may be something in terms of Chinese medicine that is contributing to infertility, which is not being detected in Western medicine.  This then opens up another avenue for treatment.

A typical course of treatment would involve an initial consultation followed by weekly sessions of Acupuncture and Chinese herbs.  The goal of treatment would be to improve the strength and flow of vital energy (Qi) within the body and particularly the reproductive system. Certain herbs and acupuncture points are specifically effective for this.

The effectiveness of the treatment is gauged by how the patient feels after and in between treatments, changes in the pulse and tongue (specific to Chinese medicine) and also from biomedical tests such as sperm motility and sperm count.

Because Chinese medicine addresses symptoms within the context of the person and their life, advice is given on lifestyle and diet etc. where necessary.  The advice, where given specifically, dovetails with the Chinese medicine diagnosis.  For example, for some people dairy products are contraindicated because of their tendency to increase the production of mucus in the body.  Therefore where someone already has too much mucus in their system, Chinese medicine will focus on resolving this and the advice will be to support the treatment by reducing the intake or finding an alternative to dairy products.

Treatment works best when patient and practitioner work together rather than as a passive receiving of treatment.  This approach has always been at the heart of Chinese medicine.

As an example, as well as herbs and acupuncture the following is recommended:

Diet:  Eat a balanced, light and clear diet. This should consist of fresh vegetables and fruits, legumes, whole grains, small amounts of lean meats and seafood.  Avoid eating excessive amounts of fats, sweets and spicy -hot foods. A light diet encourages the flow of Qi and blood in the reproductive system.

Avoid exposing the testes to excessive heat. Normal spermatogenesis requires a slightly cooler temperature than one’s core temperature; natural selection has guaranteed that the testes hang in the scrotum in which the temperature is half a degree lower. Therefore it is advisable for men with infertility to avoid exposing the testes to excessive heat such as hot baths and sitting in the Jacuzzi and also to treat any febrile disease promptly and completely.

Talk: The old saying that it’s good to talk is also true in Chinese medicine; withholding and pent up frustration are both part of a stagnant Qi pattern and talking helps to free the flow of vital energy in the whole body.  This is particularly important when a couple is trying to conceive.  From my experience this is a very stressful time for both people, and couples counselling can be very helpful.

In our clinic we have had good results with increased sperm motility and volume after a course of treatment with herbs and acupuncture when accompanied by diet and lifestyle changes.

Andropause

This is an extremely interesting area of men’s health.  Most men experience a change around about midlife (45-50).  In very general terms there is a slowing down in metabolism – a lessening of physical energy, flexibility, recovery time from illness and in reflexes.  It can for some men also be a vulnerable time when the way they have identified themselves in the first part of their lives starts to change.  The ambition, vigour and high libido, all part of the yang energy of youth, begin to fade.  This is sometimes referred to as a ‘midlife crisis’. 

If the goal is to recapture the vitality of youth then that may not be possible.  If it is to find a satisfying way of being with oneself that incorporates the physiological and emotional changes that are happening, this may be possible.  It is interesting that many poets and artists do some of their most creative work in the second part of their lives.  In Chinese Medicine this stage of life is recognised as the start of wisdom.

In Chinese as well as Western medicine there is a physiological basis for these changes and therefore a link between a physiological change and experience.  Chinese medicine can directly support this change through treatment of the channel system which is a way of supporting and influencing the physiology.

In one of the major passages of the Su Wen (written 2000 years ago) it states “In the fortieth year, kidney yin energy is naturally depleted by half, being depleted by living. In the fiftieth year, the body becomes heavy, and the ears and eyes are no longer sharp. In the sixtieth year, there is yin wilt, Qi (energy) is greatly depleted, there is emptiness below and fullness above.”  From this passage we can see that at forty years old, yin is depleted by half simply as a result of the normal ageing process.

There is also an awareness of the progressive weakening of men’s bodies as they age; this perspective is very useful as it orientates treatment towards specific areas of the meridian and channel system.  As an example, I have noticed in my own practice that many men have lower back and knee problems over the age of forty-five.  Treatment is therefore often focussed on these two areas but also upon the kidney meridian as the underlying declining meridian.   This would be different to treating someone in their twenties with a back problem, where declining kidney energy is not necessarily an issue.

The kidney meridian, as well as being associated physiologically with the lower back, is also associated with willpower and ambition.  In mid life the will gives way to wisdom, so treating the kidneys during this phase of life can help this transition.

In a younger man at a different phase of his life, treatment on the kidneys can strengthen and firm the will and channel it into ambition.  It is therefore within the scope of Chinese medicine to provide a context and a treatment protocol to assist the so-called ‘midlife crisis’.

In mid life I do not see the changes as a failure of the body that needs to be corrected, rather as an evolutionary process with its gifts as well as its losses.  This perspective has important implications in the treatment of men and supports a move away from the predominantly negative stereotypes and clichés associated with ageing.

There is, however, a caveat to the above point that is worth mentioning; Andropause as a Western disease category refers to a collection of endocrinal somatic and psychic changes experienced by men in middle age and beyond.  Mostly it is accepted that these are the normal signs of ageing.  However in some people there are abnormally low levels of testosterone (hypergonadism, testicular failure), in these cases ART androgen replacement therapy is usually given.

Treating men has always been part of Chinese medicine.  Treating specific men’s diseases has until recently been background.  A growing interest in alternative health and fertility, together with more research and translation of Chinese source material has prompted more men to seek help from practitioners such as myself.  I hope I have shown that Chinese medicine offers a highly specialised and effective treatment for many men’s diseases.

Texts referenced:

Principles of Chinese Medical Andrology

Bob Damone

Blue Poppy Press, 2008

(Chinese medicine refers to traditional Chinese herbs and acupuncture)

Biography

Tim Davis practises acupuncture and Chinese herbs in Mumbles, West Glamorgan, South Wales, and has been qualified since 1988.  He has also been in an ongoing men’s group at Spectrum, a centre for humanistic psychology in London, for the last 15 years.

Tim Davies 

For more information visit http://www.acuherbsouthwales.com/ or email info@acuherbsouthwales.com