Writing for What Makes a Man site occasionally leads me to a great experience that enriches my life.  Buying this fragrance was and is, one such experience.

I was on the lookout for a new fragrance.  I like dense, masculine, long-lasting fragrances that have a real presence.  I project an image of style and masculine power, and I wanted a fragrance that was in accord with that image.  More than that I wanted a fragrance that had a hard edge to it.  Most recently I have been wearing Terre D’Hermes which is a superb fragrance for a man.  Terre D’Hermes is a rich, mossy oaky earthy scent with a just a bit of tobacco and spice. It smells rich, welcoming and warm and has a lot of presence but is a little soft.

I realised that what I wanted was something slightly more sexy, more overtly masculine and with a lot of presence.  One of the most important factors in developing personal style is knowing what works for you.  I was clear about what I wanted.

I wanted a Leather.

Actually I wanted leather, tobacco, tar, all the thing that smelled manly.  As long as it was big.  In perfume terms, I wanted “radiance”, the ability of the perfume to radiate out into my personal space.  I wanted a male fragrance that had a big personality.

References

So it was time for a little research.  These days I go straight to the Bible of Perfumes.  This is Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez wonderful book “Perfumes, The A-Z guide”.  Luca Turin is one of the greatest living experts on perfume and, along with his wife Tania Sanchez, is one of the most lucid, engaging writers I have ever read.  Our review of “Perfumes, the A-Z Guide”, is here.

We also wrote an earlier article on how to choose a man’s fragrance.  That article is here

My Choice  - Histoiries De Perfums 1740

I read Luca’s reviews of great masculine perfumes and decided upon a perfume. I choose 1740 from Histoires de Parfums, a French niche fragrance house.  Luca Turin gave 1740 a rating of 5 out of 5 and described it as one of the best Leathers ever, which was good enough for me.  Also, a close reading of “Perfumes” makes it clear that Turin and Sanchez think very highly of Histoires’ perfumes, both the men’s and the women’s ranges.  But I also had a look at the Histores de Parfums site, which whetted my interest (more below).

1740 Men's Fragrance, from Histoires De Parfums

Buying 1740

I usually do not buy any fragrance without smelling it.  However Histoires de Parfums are a niche fragrance brand, only sold in a few stores, none of which were convenient for me at the time.  So I ordered 1740, scent unseen, from the Grooming Clinic website.  More on the Grooming Clinic below.

Trying it – Top Notes

I sprayed it on.  The top notes are a spectacularly lively bitter Orange, a sharp Balsamic spicyness and some clean Citrus, all bound together with a big kick of scent.  This is spraying on exhilaration out of a bottle.  It feels bracing, lifts one up immediately.  This is the most immediate impact a fragrance has had on me since I discovered Eau Sauvage as a teenager.

1740 has a presence alright.  The Citrus/Orange (the Bergamot I guess) and Oakmoss scent is dominant and lasts a long time.  I had a mate drop by when I was opening the box and gave it to him to try.  He also tried a couple of heavy Orientals (reviews to follow) and his opinion, the 1740 was the dominant fragrance (and the one he preferred).I could smell the top notes for about forty minutes.  Then the middle starts to blend in.  And I mean blend.  There is a symphonic quality about this fragrance, where the top, middle and base accords weave around each other, slowly displacing each other.  If you are paying attention, this is fragrance as entertainment.

The big middle

The middle is bold, rich and a lot of presence.  There is a smell of spice, coriander, cardamom and something that smells like a spicy plum. At the same time there is a smell of aromatic woods. There is a clean, iron smell of Birch, some fresh Cedar.  The woods lift the middle notes and give it a backbone.  There is a smell of tobacco from somewhere.   This 1740 is really big and rich but not fat, it has structure. And again, orchestrated.  These scents combine to form something which is warm, sexy, but has a combative, rugged edge.

I was wearing the 1740, it had gone into the middle notes, when I kissed a female friend.  Her eyes almost glazed over and she said “God, what is that!”.  I told her and she proceeded to nuzzle my neck long enough to get a good long scent of the 1740.  Now that is the right reaction to a man’s fragrance!.

1740, a bold, rugged, sexy Leather and Amber fragrance

Into the base

The Birch stays, and a big Leather and dry Amber come along to fill out the base accord. Again, this is big, it has mass and enough structure that you could almost reach out and grasp it.  So you get a rich whisky leather scent with a hint of Iron (the Birch?).  And this is not bare-bones.  The middle never completely dies away and the scent has a “body” to it.  So there is warmth, mystery, hints of spice and that dry  but substantial Amber.  At this point the 1740 has gone full orchestral on you and the fully composed perfume is radiating out into your personal space.  Magnificent.  The perfumier at Histoires ,Gerald Ghislain, who composed this, is a genius.

The effect – sexy as hell.

Hell, do I feel like a sex god when I wear this!  I have been wearing 1740 for a week now and have found reasons for wearing it every single day.  Once the 1740 gets into its base accord I feel like I have the balls of Mickey Spillane’s Mike Hammer and the sex-appeal of a young Sean Connery.   The Leather/Amber accord really appeals to me and smells very manly, yet modern.  There are none of the connotations or signature scents of “old” perfumes.  This is a very modern composition, lively and fresh to start, strong and authoritative in the dry-down.

Longevity

I said this was rich but it is also long-lasting.  I put this on at 11.00am and the scent is still actively present 12 hours later.  This is a powerful, beautifully structured fragrance that works hard.

Works for me

So I am completely and utterly sold on this 1740 and will be trying some of the other Histoires de Parfums men’s fragrances.  The sheer pleasure that this fragrance has given me is wonderful.  Choosing, buying and wearing this fragrance has been a joyful personal experience and one that has enhanced my personal style.  I recommend 1740 whole-heartedly.

1740

Histoires de Parfums

Histoires de Parfums are a niche French perfume house who I had not heard of before I read “Perfumes the A-Z Guide”.  The most thing important to write about here is that they are dedicated to men’s fragrances as well as women’s and the have an extensive men’s range, all named after important historic dates.  Gerald Ghislain takes the thematic date (often the date of birth of a famous, iconic man) as inspiration and derives a perfume from that. He describes himself as a “hands-on” perfumier. Well, he got his hands dirty here and created a superb men’s fragrance.  I promise more on Histoires de Parfums and Monsieur Ghislain in future articles.

The Histoires de Parfums site is really good, you can find it here

The Grooming Clinic

I bought my 1740 from the Grooming Clinic, who are listed as a preferred retailer on the Histoiries de Parfums website.  The Grooming Clinic has some really interesting men’s fragrance products, alongside a wide range of men’s grooming products.  I spoke to them about the 1740 and they were both knowledgeable and extremely helpful.  They steered me to another range of men’s rragrances which I will write about in a future article.

They ship their products by recorded delivery (included in the price) and the 1740 arrived within two days.  What particularly impressed me was the care with which they package products for dispatch.  Here is a picture of their mail packaging for the 1740.

Packaging for the 1740

Based on my experience I would certainly recommend them.  The Groom Clinic’s website is here

Your feedback on this review and other Histoiries product are most welcome.

So at the moment, What Makes a Man is on a little bit of a men’s fragrance journey.  Sometimes you need shirts, sometimes you need knitwear and sometimes you need fragrances.

Prada are launching their new Men’s Fragrance Luna Rossa, on the 1st of October 2012.

Prada and Extreme Sailing

So here is a bit of an sneak preview, which was sent to us here at What Makes a Man.  The video below is the press ad for the new Prada men’s fragrance, Luna Rossa.  Now this is promising, because the Luna Rossa sailing team are an amazing Italian sailing team who were originally formed to contest the 2000 America’s Cup.  Since these brave gentlemen have been at the forefront of Extreme Sailing contests worldwide.  Their crews are drawn from tough athletes with high endurance and superb sailing skills, and they have made great sailors out of weightlifters, martial arts champions and men from all sorts of diverse sporting banckgrounds.  So, tough hombres all round.

Prada Fragrances

Prada’s women’s fragances have begun to get a following in the market, especially with Prada Ambre, and I thought that Prada Tendre was a complex, well-executed fragrance.  Men’s fragrances have been (largely) upscale niche fragrances that that sit within the Prada family of products.  So I am looking forward to Luna Rossa, this looks to be a much more full-bodied, masculine fragrance.   The history of Prada is that when they set out to do somethinmg they do it well.  Certainly the signs are that Luna Rossa will become Prada’s flagship male fragrance.   There is certainly room for another great male fragrance.  I will have Luna Rossa at launch (October the 1st) and will publish a review soon.

Stay posted for the review.

Enjoy the video.

When Ahava offered me samples of the new products to review I had a concern about changes to products I enjoyed using (new is not always better).  As a result I decided to really put these products through their paces and give them an extended try-out.

Three products

The new Ahava range contains the full range of products that one expects in a modern men’s range including showergels and hand creams. I selected the following products from the range to review.

• Ahava soothing after-shave moisturiser
• Ahava foam-free shaving cream
• Ahava age-control moisturising cream

My Grooming Regimen

Shaving creams and moisturisers, along with Men’s fragrances, form the core of my grooming regimen.  I use a variety of shower gels, about which I will write another time.  And the truth is I am very discerning and products have to be good to get on my permanent list.  I am old-school male in this respect.  If I think a men’s grooming product works well I will be loyal to it. And writing this web-site has given me the opportunity to try a lot of products and so I have a larger personal favourites list than most men.  So the Ahava set would need to be good to stay on that list.

Reviews

Here is how I currently review Grooming products.

Ease of use

What do I have to do?  Remembering that I am not a morning person and that running late happens to us all…

How they feel

I have used some men’s grooming products which feel like I am applying recalcitrant putty.  So products that I cannot apply quickly do not cut it.  Even more important are grooming products that apply evenly.  I used to use one moisturiser that lacked plasticity and I would get to work, go to the men’s room, look in the mirror and find small pale/white spots where the stuff had not absorbed well.  Not a good look…..

Smell

Products should smell good, masculine but not too strong.  I do not want something which competes with whatever men’s fragrance I am wearing.

Effectiveness

This should be at the top of the list really.  Does it do the job?

Value

How much do I have to use? Value for me is a formulation that includes how effective the product is, but also the degree to which a product is long-lasting.

So with these criteria in mind, here are my reviews of the Ahava grooming products.

Ahava foam-free shaving cream

From the outset I have to say that this was the best product of them all, I am really enjoying the Ahava shaving cream.   It comes in a 200 ML toothpastetube-style dispenser and a soft squeeze gives you a small very white blob of cream.  This has a soft consistency.  It has the singular quality that all Ahava products have, which is that it does not feel in the least oily.

Ahava foam-free shaving cream

The cream rubs on clear, which is important.  Any man with a beard or mustache knows that a clear creams allow you to shave around the edges of your beard more easily and more accurately.  The cream feels good going on, with a slight fresh, astringent smell,  bracing and clean.

But the reason I like it is it shaves so damn well.  I get a really close shave with the Ahava and absolutely no razor burn.  If I give the cream time to absorb into the beard (around 20 seconds) I get a very close shave indeed. And the cream is kind to the skin.  After I rinse it off, there is no dryness or tautness of the skin.  I really like the formulation, it has a luxurious feel but is very effective.

I really wanted to put these products through their paces and have been using the Ahava shaving cream for a month now, occasionally alternating it with other products so as maintain my ability to assess it.  Some things I have noticed.

I am using less and less of the product, as I become familiar with it.  It is very economical, one only needs to use the smallest amount to get a good close shave.

It maintains its fluidity, does not dry out.  Twice I have left the cap slightly open, in a rush to get ready for an appointment.  When I came to use the cream the next day it was still fluid with only a single hardened drop, the size of a grain of sand, on the dispenser head, which is excellent, in my view.  So for those of you who treat your grooming products rough, I recommend this one to you.  Which brings me to…

Desperation Shaving.

I am an organised guy but as you will have read here, I have my two-seconds-to-get-ready days.  Now normally when I am trying to shave at speed, I get a nick somewhere.  I noticed that with the Ahava that, I did not ever cut myself.  Also, in a moment of speed
over wisdom, I made the ultimate mistake and shaved left to right.  However when I did this using the Ahava, I did not even get a razor burn.  The Ahava shaving cream provides a very rich fluid layer to shave over, the protection factor is high.

So in my view the Ahava shaving cream is truly excellent stuff, effective and easy to use.  I heartily recommend it and am continuing to use it.

Ahava Soothing After-Shave Moisturiser

This is an improved formulation of the original Ahava men’s moisturiser.  It comes in a 50ML pump dispenser which squeezes a small white blob of the moisturiser into your hand.

It has a similar slightly astringent, herby smell to it, which fades after about twenty minutes. Ahava moisturiser now has Calendula in it, a natural skin–soothing herb and one can feel this soothing effect the skin instantly.  There is also an enlivening effect, my skin feels fresher, less tired.  This is a substantive effect and lasts about an hour.

Ahava After Shave Moisturiser

Old versus New

For me it was important that the new moisturiser had the key advantages of the original one.  Firstly it had to penetrate the skin well, and be an effective moisturiser.  Secondly, the wonderful attribute of the original moisturiser was that it was so long-lasting.  And this new version is good on both counts.  If anything, it is a better moisturiser.  After using it for four days I could see a noticeable new tone in my facial skin and consistent usage has really improved my skin quality.

Long-lasting

As with the original this is a long-lasting moisturiser.  You can put this on in the morning and see and feel that your skin is still good at the end of the day.  A lot of moisturisers simply do not have that quality.

The original Ahava moisturiser was, for me, their star product and I am really glad that this new version retains the benefits of the original while adding further benefits in the quality of the product and its absorbtion into the skin.  Again, highly recommended.

Ahava Age Control Moisturising Cream

I am very interested in Age Management grooming products for men.  Men do not need good skincare when they are young and standard grooming products often do not cut it when they get older.  Products for mature men have to be effective and have an immediate impact.

So the Ahava Age Control Moisturising Cream turned out to be an incredibly rich cream.  Date and Dunaliella Salina (rich in anti-oxidants) are blended with other botanicals and Dead Sea Minerals.  It uses extracts of Ginseng, Ginko and Ginger to enhance the restorative effects of the cream.  It also has a an SPF factor or 15, which is very useful, as the skin of older men is more sensitive to strong sunlight and UV radiation.

Ahava Age Control Moisturiser

How did I test it?

Given that I was wearing the After-Shave moisturiser and needed to be able to see the effects of both moisturisers, I got my friend Peter to be the test subject.  Peter is a mature man who has spent a lot of time outside and quite a lot of crows-feet
and other wrinkles.  Peter is in his forties and has the skin of a mature man. That is, wrinkled, more weathered and tougher than the skin of a woman
of comparable age.

What we found

This is a heavier, slightly more luxurious cream, which has the same faintly astringent smell, goes on easily and has the same uplifting qualities as the After Shave moisturiser. In fact the first thing we found that the Age Control Moisturiser had very potent penetrating power.  When we applied it to Peter’s skin, it was absorbed quickly into his skin and had an immediate effect.

Two effects – immediate and time-related

When we applied the Age Control moisturiser to Peter’s skin, it was immediately clear that his skin looked better, smoother and the wrinkles in his skin were less pronounced.  His skin looked younger and healthier, had more shine.

After an hour we reviewed his skin again.  The skin around his eyes looked firmer, younger and the wrinkles were markedly less pronounced.  Overall his skin looked cleaner and fresher.  The Age Control moisturiser had a visible effect after only one application. Peter’s skin looked better and the Age Control moisturiser had clearly had a visible effect, smoothing out some of the age lines and wrinkles in his skin.  Peter, who is generally take-it-or-leave-it on men’s grooming products, is now an Ahava convert.

My own experience

I have been using the Age Control Moisturiser as an evening moisturiser.  It is very good for toning down wrinkles, giving my skin a lift and making my skin look younger.  So I have been using it for parties and social events.  A secondary benefit is that
this moisturiser makes my skin feel better, it has a soothing, uplifting effect.

Conclusion

Simple really, this is potent, useful stuff.  I would really recommend this moisturiser to mature men.  If you are going to buy one misturiser, this is the one.  This is a moisturiser which works well on older skin, which give your skin a lift and has the added value of a sunscreen in the formulation.

Packaging

As you will see from the photographs, the packaging is a little dour and does not quite reflect the rather luxurious contents inside.  That said, it made it easy to find these products amongst all the silvers and bright blues that inhabit my bathroom shelves.  The colours do reflect the effective, get-the-job-done nature of Ahava’s products.  In fact the lack of glamourous packaging will help you keep these products a secret and stop yoour girlfriend from ripping off your moisturiser…….

Ahava men's grooming range

Conclusion: A great range of men’s products.

I really wanted to put these products through their paces and have used them extensively for a month now and they have become grooming favourites.  I have kept Ahava waiting for my review but I hope you, my readers, will think it was worthwhile.  I am really pleased with this range, from a man’s perspective they hit all the right notes.  The products are well-made, well-sourced, effective with just a touch of upscale luxury.  Using these products is a small joy in a busyday.  They will really support your
personal grooming and I recommend them to you whole-heartedly.

For how to buy and Ahava stockists worldwide, Ahava’s website is here: http://www.ahava.com/

As regular readers know, we are always keen to hear about new men’s cosmetics, especially skincare.  Looking good is both its own reward and it also helps our image in business and leisure. So a little discreet help is appreciated.  I recently received Sensiderma Day Moisturising Lotion for Men from Queen Cosmetics which I review below.

Queen Cosmetics

Queen are an interesting company, who I had not heard of before.  An English company, they were founded in 1927 by three dermatologists ( a link to Queen is at the bottom of this article).  They began making cosmetics for sensitive skin, partly in reaction to some of the more harsh chemical-based cosmetics that were around at that time.  As dermatologists they had treated many women whose skin had been damaged by over-powerful cosmetics and it was clear to them that kinder, gentler products could be made.

Their hypo-allergenic range of cosmetics quickly became popular amongst young, wealthy and fashionable Englishwomen and in a few short years that knowledge hopped the Atlantic and Queen became a connoisseur brand in the US.  Queen cosmetics, carefully tested for both gentleness and effectiveness, became a beauty secret amongst intelligent women.  Over time Queen Cosmetics became classic English beauty products.

Today Queen continue to work in the same way.  Customers find their products by word of mouth and they maintain a discreet presence in specialist pharmacies and beauty salons.  They have a ferociously loyal clientele who, clearly, know a good thing when they see it.  The Sensiderma for Men day moisturising lotion is their first venture into men’s skincare.

Sensiderma for Men, day moisturising lotion

Sensiderma for Men: Day Moisturising Lotion

Day Moisturising Lotion comes in a metallic sliver plunge dispenser, so a quick depress and the cream feeds from the nozzle.   It is a fine white cream, in fact a very fine, smooth, non-oily cream with a silky feel.

There is no fragrance to the moisturiser, it is fragrance free, which for me is a boon, because this job allows me to wear men’s fragrances most days now.  The cream goes on easily, and because of the quality, you only need a little to cover your whole face. It spreads easily and penetrates the skin quickly.

One of the most noticeable things about this moisturiser is that feels really good, there is a significant soothing and cooling effect.  I have taken to putting it on after shaving as it has the same soothing effect as an after-shave balm.  On one occasion I put it on after scraping a small razor-burn into my neck and the Sensiderma immediately took the burn out of the scrape.  So there is a high degree of comfort in using this moisturiser.

The effect is immediate, my skin immediately looks healthier, this moisturiser smooths out any hint of rednesss or skin irritation.   Applied around the eyes it takes some of the sharpness out of my wrinkles. This product has power where it counts, in its ability to quickly penetrate a man’s skin, which is of course tougher and harder than a womans.

The Sensiderma dries matt and invisible on the skin in around twenty seconds.  This is good for those of us who need to slap it on and go. However the soothing pleasing sensation stays for about an hour.  I am conscious of my skin feeling relaxed and comfortable, which is pleasant and gives me a small but significant boost.  After applying the Sensiderma my skin feels soft to the touch (which is what girls want), hydrated and smooth.  The effect is long-lasting.  Over several (busy) days I have noticed that my skin is still in good shape at the end of the day.

What is most striking about Sensiderma for Men is the sheer quality of the lotion.  For me the gold standard of skin care is Elemis pro-collagen marine cream (I know, it’s for girls) which is a superb day moisturiser.  It terms of fine quality the Sensidera moisturiser runs very close to the Elemis product, which is a huge compliment.  Also, the Sensiderma moisturiser is a third of the price of the Elemis product, no small consideration.

My view

Sensiderma Day Moisturiser is a superb product.  I will be keeping an eye open for other men’s products launched by Queen.  It will be interesting to see what they come up with.  This day moisturer is quick, very effective and very luxurious.  My skin feels really good with it on.  One to try, I recommend it to you.

Sensiderma Day Moisturising Lotion for Men costs £21.50 from Queen Cosmetics here

The first part; Choosing a man’s cologne, is here

Having written the first article we realised that there is no real guide to how men’s colognes smell.  So we wrote this article. Here are our top twenty colognes, divided into five categories.  If you find this useful, let us know.  We intend to do more on this subject.

Our articles on dressing well for dating start here (article 1 of 5)

Classic men’s colognes.

We start with the classics, because most of us will have heard of these and we using these, we can start to get ourselves on a common footing.

Men’s perfume classics have made a huge comeback, revived initially by the new Italian fashion designers, who like them for their complexity and rich combination of scents.  The great thing about the classics is their reliability, you know what you are getting.  They also date from a period when men’s fragrances were more discreet, so they lack the orchid and aromatic wood- heavy notes of today’s best-selling colognes.  This means that if you are unsure about colognes, you can start with a classic fragrance, it is unlikely to be too extreme a smell.

Eau Savage

A clean, fruity, sharp smell, very sexy, lots of hot floral smells and leather.  Young, masculine, lively, a statement cologne.  After it wears in you have a slightly acid leather and lemon scent, which is appealing and noticeable.  If you are fit, engaging, dress with a clean sharp look, then its dry, musk and fruit smell is for you.  If you are slightly overweight, losing hair, classic style, sorry, it’s not really for you.  This is also a strong-smelling cologne, so do not douse yourself in it.  You want to smell good, not overpower your audience.

Eau Sauvage - dry, floral, acid - the original manly cologne

Givenchy Monsieur (Givenchy Gentleman)

Cary Grant’s favourite cologne, which says it all really.  A complex, very long-lasting scent, with some deep notes of amber and wood mixed with a fresh rich floral topnote.  For the classic man really, it works wonderfully for the older man.  A superb day-time cologne, it says worldly, ladies man, gentleman.  A true ladykiller.

This is one of my two preferred day colognes, along with Chanel’s Egoiste (see below).  Most times I wear Givenchy Monsieur because the Egoiste is a little big for daywear.

Givenchy Monsieur - Cosmopolitan and sophisticated

Aqua Di Parma

Has had a huge comeback with modern fashion designers singing its praises.  Floral, ostentatious, a little goes a long way.  A slight spicy undernote makes it as Italian as can be while having a classic musk base.  A good cologne and, for the immediate future at least, a talking point.  Technically a mid-range cologne, it is good for the man who is looking for a middle of the road cologne to enhance a classic image.

Aqua Di Parma - a much loved classic

L’Homme Roger et Gallet

For those men who think colognes make them girly.  This is woody, salty, has the tang of astringent herbs.  If you are a crocodile hunter, special forces soldier, or arctic explorer, L’Homme Roger et Gallet is for you.  The most masculine.  Ever.  Wear it when you are going to take down a full-grown grizzly, armed only with a Bowie knife.

I used to wear this all the time when I was finding my way with colognes.  Women love it but you have to be right for it.  I was not, but still wear it occasionally, it brings back fond memories.  Out of fashion now, but definitely due a revival.

L'Homme Roger et Gallet - a truly masculine cologne

Light Fragrances

Issey Miyake man

(L’Eau D’Issey pour homme).  This is light, smells of exotic woods, a faint smell of orchids and salt mist, the slightest smell of herbs.  If you are a slim man or of compact build, your style is discreet, neat, orderly, this will work well for you.  A thing of beauty.

Issey Miyake for men - Light, elegant, stylish

Canali Men

Light, fragrant, lots of citrus and floral notes, yet distinctive and classy.  It lasts well for a light cologne and after a while has a slight soft undertone of exotic flowers.    Definitely one for the ladykillers, but not really for your Aunt’s summer lunch party.  A light cologne, but quite showy, it has an impact.  Canali have produced something really fine here, it is clearly Italian but modern and young.  I would recommend this for men in their twenties.

Canali - spirited, sexy and elegant

Egoiste Platinum

Egoiste gets two write-ups here, because it is such a versatile cologne.  Egoiste Platinum is the lighter of the two Egoistes.  It was specifically designed for the younger man, based on the best-selling original.  It has the sharp coriander and oriental balm scents of the original but has more flower scents, lavender and jasmine predominate.  Light and good for day-wear, once again a good young man’s cologne.

Armani Code

This is light, clean, sexy and a definitive smell.  A little young, but striking, a scent of exotic florals and spices.  There is a tangy mineral/herb edge to this one, so it definitely has body.  Light but with an athletic personality.

Armani Code - young, definitive, clean-smelling

Complex mid-range fragrances

Paul Smith Men

This is a really useful cologne.  It has a light herby Englishness about it but with a quirky spicy edge that is very present when you apply it.  However the spiciness wears away to leave undertones of warm florals and a surprising level of musk.  You might say it becomes sexier as time wears on.  A good all-rounder, it is noticeable but not obstrusive.  An excellent cologne, especially for men just beginning with colognes or men whose style is subtle and understated.

If you feel confident, are creative, have that extra zing, then I recommend Paul Smith Extreme.  More spicy, with lush notes of Bergamot and exotic herbs, it still has the underlying musk but now overlaid by a bolder, more oriental scent.  This is an attention-grabber.  Whatever you do, do not spray this on ten seconds before you enter the room.

Paul Smith Extreme - quirky, spicy, lots of character

Burberry Men

This is a very good mid-range day cologne.  Slightly astringent, slightly herby, with enough musk and body to wear through a day.  A clean, slightly minty smell, very classic and pleasing.

Burberry Men - clean, fresh, slightly herby

Egoiste – Chanel

This is a superb cologne.  Egoiste straddles the line between the mids and the bigs, it has enormous character but is also subtle and light.  It has a distinctive oriental, woody smell.  There is a crisp smell of coriander, lemon and light notes but this cologne has a real spine and it is held up by a woody and heavy floral note.  The end result is a complex confident, prosperous smell that lasts really well.

Too new to be a classic but I am sure it will become one.  Quite rightly, a best-seller since its launch. Ignore the other Chanel men’s colognes, they are not good.  Chanel have never equalled Egoiste since they launched it.

Egoiste - fresh, floral but full of character

Tom Ford – Classic

Tom Ford understands style in a way that few people do.  To me, Tom Ford classic smells like a modern version of Eau Sauvage, without the overtly sexual fruity acid topnote smell of Eau Sauvage.  Which is a good and clever thing.  This is a floral fragrance with some spice and some amber.  Complex and superbly mixed, this smells like a worldly man, lots of scents but is a subtle, beguiling smell.  As it wears in, it develops into a light, fresh, slightly floral slightly spicy scent.  Good stuff and (I think) destined to become a modern classic.

Tom Ford Classic

The bigs

Complex strong scents, for the big man, be it big style, big size or big presence.

Terre D’Hermes

Big, rich, very woody, a smell of orchids and leather.  Lots of earthy musk underpinning all of this.  It is very longlasting, the floral notes give way to a warm woody spiciness with a hint of amber and leather.  Very powerful, for the mature man, needs a strong presence to carry it.  The sophisticated man at night.  My personal favourite.

Terre D'Hermes - Rich, woody, pungent

Valentino Homme

Yes, the Italian designer.  Spicy, big, intense, very flamboyant and noticeable.  Lots of orchid and rare spices, a complex scent with bergamot, exotic wood and musk, Italian to the core. If you are the star of your show, here is your scent.  Party scent  for the successful man.

Valentino Men - big and showy

Zegna Intenso

What it says on the bottle.  Intense, deep floral scent with a fruit and spice complexity to lighten it.  A musky ostentatious scent, a little is enough, it is very noticeable.  In my experience, women love this scent, are provoked to comment on it.  Left my bottle in a hotel in Spain, keep meaning to buy some more.

Zegna Intenso - intense, sexy, fun

Black Tea – Murdock

My god.  This is potent stuff.  Smells of wood, tobacco, burnt spices and a manly musk.  Put it on, it is spicy and warm but insistent, you can smell the leather and tobacco, a slight hint of tea, oriental spices.  A warm dry smell, it wears in and carries all of its scents confidently.  This is one of the most long-lasting colognes I have ever worn, I put it on at 14.00 and it was still working strongly at midnight.

This is the Alpha Male of scents.  Lets be blunt, this one says big male animal, looking for sex.  Here’s a context for you.  As a yong actor, before he became a movie star, Oliver Reed was one of the most good-looking men alive.  He had a good-looking devil face, thick dark hair, a confident, insolent look and a devil-may-care presence.  Women adored him.  Black Tea by Murdock is the distilled essence of Oliver Reed and I mean that as a real compliment.

Murdock Black Tea - Dry, spicy, leathery, truly masculine

Latins

I had to give the Latins some space of their own.  These are romantic, big men’s colognes and they are the boldest of them all.

L’Occitane

L’Occitane are a Provencal cosmetics company that specialise in the fragrances and balms from that region.  Primarily a women’s brand, like a lot of French houses they have an extensive men’s range.  Sometimes I wear their Eau De L’Occitane pour Homme.  I would never have bought this myself, my wife bought it for me but I like it.  Funny really, because I have an ongoing love affair with Provence.

This is a sharp, very spicy scent, with lots (and lots) of juniper, exotic herbs and flowers in it.  Not a shy scent.  I wear it when I need a cologne that can hold it’s own, such as at a summer day party, or a barbecue.  This is not an expensive or complicated men’s cologne but is fun, sexy scent.

Warning.  In my experience, some of L’Occitane’s men’s colognes can be overwhelming.  For example I find their men’s Verbena completely overpowering.  Try before you buy.

Narcisco Rodriguez – Men

Spanish designer, who has made a name for himself with his sophisticated womenswear, reinterpreting women’s classics and producing a dark, sexy look.  I sampled his Narcisco Rodriguez Men recently.  This is most definitely a big cologne.  In fact this is very heavy.  It is a heavily floral cologne, a big scent of orchids, a deep sweetness balanced by a heavy musk layer.   It has some undertones of wood but is primarily a strong floral smell, very opulent and quite decadent.  A showbiz perfume, movie-star-at-the-premiere men’s cologne.

Narcisco Rodriguez for men - Heavy, floral and powerful

Adolfo Dominguez – Black

Warm scents of oranges and spices, some wood.  It smells like a hot, sunny day in Seville, with some sharp flowers and a scent of organges thrown into the mix.  A bit less heavy than the others, the scent is lighter and not so penetrating.  This might be a good Latin cologne for a younger man.

Black by Domingues - spicy and Spanish

Carolina Herrera 212 Men

Carolina Herrera 212 Men.  I tried this recently.  Marvellous stuff.  Sophisticated, spicy, complex, lots of rich floral notes, some amber and (I think) a touch of vanilla.  This is aristocratic, prosperous, sexy and confident.  If I have a complaint about 212, it is that it fades very quickly, the complexity dies and the underlying floral note is all that’s left.  Still, it is spactacular while it is in action.  Carolina Herrera is actually Venuzuelan of Spanish descent, so this is, strictly speaking, a Latim American cologne.  Recommended.

Carolina herrera 212 Men - sophisticated, aristocratic, sexy

The End, for now

So here are twenty men’s fragrances we like, there are of course lots more.  Half the fun with men’s fragrances is finding the good ones.  The other half is of course wearing them.

As always, your feedback on our choices is most welcome.

So men’s colognes are a mystery to many men.  How do we chose them?  Who do we ask about them?  What are the rules here?

Here are my guidelines.  I hope you find them useful.

For our top 20 picks in Men’s fragrances, go here

For our articles on stylish dress for dating go here (article 1 of 5)

Introduction

I have always enjoyed wearing good men’s colognes.  Partly because I saw myself as a stylish man and that was what stylish men did.  But even as a young man I realised they had a positive effect on women and at that age I needed all the help I could get.

It was my second wife who told me that she was very affected by a man’s smell.  That a man who smelt good had a real (and sexual) effect on her.  Latterly it was my friend Sass who said to me, that from a woman’s perspective, a man who smelt good could be forgiven a lot of other style missteps.

However, I quickly realised that most men only have the vaguest idea about colognes.  I talked to a lot of men, friends and acquaintances, about men’s colognes and came to the conclusion that an article laying out the basics was needed.  Here it is.

What are colognes?

So, firstly, what are talking about here.  At the simplest level perfumes are a mixture of aromatic oils, aroma compounds (flowers, fruits, herbs, woods) and fixatives.  So the proportion and way these constituents are added together determines the smell of the perfume.

Perfumes for men have been around since the early Egyptians and in the past men used them much more widely than now.  The first “Eau de Cologne” was launched in Cologne (where else) in 1709.  Broadly speaking the idea of a man’s “Consumer” fragrance was defined by the first couture designer, Charles Worth, who founded the House of Worth in Paris, back in the 19^th Century.

That’s all the theory we need, onto the practice. 

Basic Rules

You get what you pay for.

Good perfumes take great skill to blend well and contain costly ingredients.  Cheap fragrances, especially men’s, are mostly alcohol and some cheap synthetic scents.  They smell sharp and harsh and are likely to burn out the nasal linings of your date, if not your own. So, especially if you are a beginner in men’s colognes, you want to pay good money for a recognised cologne (notice I did not say Brand).  See Part Two of this article for our recommendations here

Egoiste - one of the most successful colognes of the last 20 years

Men’s fragrances extend along a range, from light fragrances to a middle ground, where fragrances have a greater depth and potency, to colognes which are big both in terms of enduring smell and the complexity of their ingredients.  You need to know what you are buying, because you want something that will suit you.

Colognes react differently depending on the man

The complexity of a good cologne comes into play when it hits the skin of each man.  Your skin, its degree of oilyness, its age, its condition, will all subtly affect how it smells.  So my reviews are slightly distorted by the effect of these colognes on my skin.  However the basic aromas do not change.   

Your colognes – How many do you need?

You should buy colognes that suit you, see below on how to do this.  If, like me, you enjoy wearing colognes, then you will probably own a number.  At minimum, you want to have two colognes, one for the day and one for the night.

Beware! An over-complex market and a confusing array of products

There is a lot of money to be made in fragrances.  Traditionally this was less so in men’s fragrances.  However the men’s market is growing, so we now have all the noise and distraction that the female fragrance market does.  This includes celebrity perfumes, “brand” perfumes and celebrity endorsement campaigns (is there anything that Jude Law does not wear?).   

Types of cologne

There are so many ways to categorise men’s fragrances but we have to put a boundary around them, in order to write about them.  By categorising them from light to big (heavy) we can tie them up to your personal style.  Definitions below.

Light colognes

Floral and fruit odours tend to predominate in these fragrances.  Their scent is usually a light one, without the wet or woody odours provided by musk.  If musk is present, then it is usually muted, so the scent is floral, herby, slightly acid and “clean” smelling.  Sometimes light colognes have a warm, mineral smell, that does not detract from their lightness.  These are often good for younger men, being fresh and light.

Mid-range colognes

These tend to be heavier, with more of the underlying musk which supports heavier aromas.  So perfumes in this range use heavier flower aromas, oriental scents, leather and woody smells begin to appear.  These are complex colognes to blend and their true smell is often less immediate than the light colognes, which have the very obvious floral topnotes to announce them. 

Big (Heavy) colognes

These are strong-smelling colognes with a substantial musk layer.  On this they put more complex, interesting aromas, orchids, tobacco, balsam, leather, amber.  These colognes tend to announce themselves, they have a big presence.  They are complex scents which produce interesting smells as they interact with your skin.  They also tend to be the longest-lasting.  

Valentino for men - a big fragrance

Choosing men’s fragrances

1. Matching fragrances to your style. 

What kind of style do you have?  Are you a big man with a romantic expressive nature?  Then look for a cologne that will suit that personality.  Valentino’s Homme might work for you, a big, romantic fragrance.  Are you a squared-away kind of man, cool, think before you speak, look good in a business suit?  Geoffrey Beene’s Gray Flannel, with its clean, astringent herby smell might work for you. 

The classic (and classy) Grey Flannel

Are you slim, compact, have a relaxed style?  Then a light fragrance with an oriental edge may work for you.  Calvin Klein One might work for you.

Calvin Klein - A brand with many successful fragrances

Think about it.  If you are six-four athletic guy then a floral, herby cologne is probably going to be at odds with your style.  Similarly, if you are a slim, lightly built man, wearing an overpoweringly heavy orchid-scented fragrance, in most cases, it is going to look (smell) incongruous.

So the first thing you are looking for is some style compatibility.    

2. Clear away the distractions

Do not buy celebrity colognes, by David Beckham or anyone else.  They are naked money-making schemes with you as the victim. 

Do not buy cheap brands that promise sexual conquests by the score.  You know, the ones that promise you that the Swedish Bikini Team (look them up) will go to bed with you if you slap it on.  Avoid anything which is advertised on television.

Be very suspicious of brands that do not have a real association with fragrances.  There are “car” colognes, such as the Lamborghini fragrance.  I have not tried this but I really have my doubts. 

3. Narrow the field

Now that you have an idea of style compatibility, pick a group of men’s colognes to try out.  This is research, our recommendations are here.  I suggest that you select a maximum of seven or eight fragrances, because more than that and you will get overwhelmed when you reach the point of testing them.. 

4. Two lists and two trips

Ideally you want a minimum of two fragrances, one for day, one for night.  Make two lists, plan for two separate trips.  For me, a men’s cologne to wear in the evening was most important, so I did that first.  Do not try to buy both fragrances at the same time, it becomes a confusion of aromas. 

5. In-field experience

So go try, and hopefully buy.  As men, we really only want to make one trip, so it either has to be a large chemist/drugstore or a department store.  I prefer department stores, the staff are better trained and give better advice.  Get the advice of the staff, they may have something that you like even better.

As part of my research for this piece I decided on a refresher visit to London’s Selfridges.  I have to compliment the guy who works the Tom Ford concession there.  His name is Fortunata and he really knows his stuff.  He was invaluable in helping me with the Tom Ford fragrances.  Selfridges need to hang on to that guy, he is the male customer’s best friend. 

So my experience as a man is that you can only smell around five or six fragrances before you cannot distinguish one from another.  So avoid distractions, only sample (smell) from your target list.  Avoid distractions, like pretty girls wanting to spray you with stuff.  Incidentally my experience is that women have about twice the capacity as men, for sampling fragrances.  I don’t know if this is simply more experience or something else.    

6. Trying them

So do not wear a fragrance when you go try them out.  It will confuse matters mightily.   Above all, when you try them, do not spray them on your skin.  After you have sprayed the first one, the others are a just a confusion of aromas.

So use the little blotter strips.  Sniff them, keep them (the pocket of your jeans will smell great……).  Take a pen, write the name of the cologne on the strip, add two or three memory joggers, so “Tom Ford, Tuscan Leather, orchids, wood, aromatic moss, leather”.  Simple, at least that way you have something to remember.  Otherwise I find it difficult, how do you remember smells?

Tom Ford - Tuscan Leather

7.  Buy (One)

So it is still an experiment. Take a break for an hour (two hours is better).  Try not to drink any alcohol, which screws with your senses.  Then see how each cologne has matured out.  Buy the one you like the most.

Wearing colognes

Putting it on

After the shower obviously.  Remember that oils help retain the scent, so using a (fragrance-free) moisturiser will help extend the life of the cologne you are wearing.  If your skin is dry the cologne will evaporate more quickly.

Areas to spray

Spray on your cheeks, under your chin and down the throat line.  Spray a little on your upper chest.  A little on the wrists is ok too.  However once is fine, do not overspray. 

And give it time to settle into your skin.  Never spray cologne onto yourself and get into close proximity with someone else.  You want to seduce your date, not overpower her.

Getting Feedback

Three sure ways.

Men

So assuming you put it on right there are two reactions.  A quiet nod means good stuff.  “What’s the aftershave?” is a rave review.  “Damn, Liberace is in the room!” or “Stolen your dad’s aftershave?” or similar means they think it is too strong.

Your date or girlfriend

So you have to remember that a woman’s reaction to anything depends very much on her mood at the time.  So you may not get a true reading the first time.  In fact you may not get any reading.  Rely on your own judgement and continue to wear your chosen cologne.  There are two types of negative reaction. 

Your girlfriend consistently does not notice your aftershave.  This means she does not like it and is being polite.         

She tells you it’s not you.  Keep wearing it.  If she continues with this assessment over time, you need to consider whether she has a point.  Ask her why she does not like it.

Other women

If you wear your cologne to a party and do the kiss-on-the-cheek routine with women other than your girlfriend, here are some responses to look for:

“You smell nice” means your cologne is ok

“You smell really good” means that is a good cologne for you.

“God, you smell so sexy” means that is a great cologne for you.

Rules for wearing colognes.

Do not wear more than one cologne at a time.

Gucci for Men

Do not over-spray yourself

Understand the house rules of the country where you are.  In England, it is considered unprofessional to wear a cologne for work.  Similarly in America, where some organisations have rules in their dress code forbidding men to wear colognes. 

In Italy, many man wear fragrances to work.  In France, my experience (in Banking, Menswear and journalism) is that it is pretty much the same.  In Germany, fragrances are seldom worn at work by older men, though young German men seem to ignore this and wear (quite sharp-smelling) colognes. 

My experience of Russian men, especially younger Russian men, is that they wear a lot of fragrance, often of dubious quality.

To return to where we started, men’s colognes will aid your style and seductive technique enormously.  Once again, it is not simply that you smell good, its that you are capable of picking a good cologne.  It is about your discernment and style. 

Remember, women grow up with cosmetics and perfumes.  Most women will instinctively know if you are wearing a good cologne.  So you get points for discernment, points for good taste and points for having the brains and style to know what women like.  Buy a good cologne.  Nothing is surefire but colognes are very close to it.    

Part 2 continue with our picks for a range of good colognes here.

Here is a very short post on Ahava’s Men’s moisturiser.  I was in the London Ahava store in Covent Garden and one of their staff started talking to me about their men’s products.  They are mineral-based products from the Dead Sea Laboratories Group, who have a reputation for good-quality effective women’s skin care.  I have used Dead Sea mineral products before (though not from Ahava) and found that my skin responds well to them.

So I bought Ahava’s Protective Moisturising Fluid and have been using it as a day moisturiser for a month now and like it. 

Ahava men's protective moisturising fluid

The tub squirts a pearl-sized blob of white cream, which is enough for one application.  The cream is slightly heavier than some other men’s moisturisers, rubs in well and spreads evenly and quickly.  It is refreshing, with a slight toning effect, and has a faint clean flinty astringent smell.  It also acts as an after-shave balm and cools razor-burn.  I have a couple of scars on my face (childhood accident) that are difficult to shave around and I occasionally get razor-burn around them.  The Ahava has a noticeable cooling effect.

Once on, the moisturiser dries matt in around 30 seconds.  It has a whitener in it and gives a light to the skin making it look healthier and cleaner.

One of the things I like most about it is that it is long-lasting.  I have spent several long days in the sun recently and the moisturiser holds up well, my skin does not dry out.  It has a sun protection component (SPF 15) so that helps too.

So a new product for me, and one I will definitely use again, especially when spending a lot of time outdoors.

Details:

 For more on Ahava products, their website is here

Just a brief post on Nickel, as I was in the shop a day or so ago.

Nickel is a bright, modern men’s day spa and men’s cosmetics shop. They are located in London’s Covent Garden, convenient for those of us who work in central London. In fact Nickel are both a spa company and a French men’s cosmetics brand. The upper part of the store comprises the Spa reception and the shops and the Spa treatment rooms are downstairs.

Nickel men

The Spa rooms are well-designed, cutting-edge modern, very quiet and well-equipped. The Spa has a wonderful calm atmosphere and once you are there, it is hard to believe that the bustle of Covent Garden is a just outside. Nickel had a wide range of treatments and I can personally vouch for their facial, (and Nickel’s therapists), which is superb for restoring a tired complexion. If you want to see the full treatment list you can pick it up from the website, details below.

Nickel also sell their own brand cosmetics. Nickel is actually a French company and their skincare, shave and hair products are much better known across the channel and more widely used. I find their products, especially the cleansers and moisturisers, easy to apply and effective. I like the fact that they provide products for both light and dark skin types, a welcome recognition that men come in all shades.

However for me the killer product is their silicon valley anti-aging crème (picture below). This is the best stuff, one application of this will take ten years off your face. It takes the edges off wrinkles, smoothes out your rough skin, scales down the redness of that razor tear you got when you were shaving hung-over.

Nickel silicon valley anti-aging cream

Nickel also sell colognes from a number of top-end brands, including Canali and Loewe. All in all, worth a visit.

Remember this is a popular Spa, with a lot of loyal regular customers. They are open seven days a week but if you want an appointment you really need to book. Marie Campbell runs reception and she is a simply wonderful gal, she can get it sorted for you.

Details:

Nickel Spa London,
27 Shorts Gardens,
Covent Garden,
London WC2H 9AP

Tel +44 (0) 20 7240 4048

www.nickelspalondon.co.uk

I buy my moustache wax from Taylors of Old Bond Street, but even if I did not, I would still go buy something from them, just to shop there. I love the shop.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, Jermyn Street

When I step over the threshold I expect, and get, the most superb service and the best shaving products in the world. I have never left the shop without feeling like their most valued customer. Just knowing Taylors exists is enough to restore my faith in the world.

Taylors of Old Bond Street was founded in 1854, when Queen Victoria was England’s ruler, by Jeremiah Taylor. They are a combined English gentlemen’s cosmetics company (“Toiletries” in the old phrase) and gentleman’s barbers. They were making men’s cosmetics from natural and herbal products before the large cosmetics companies had ever heard the word “organic”.

The same Taylor family run Taylor’s today, the great, great grandson of Jeremiah being in charge. Despite their name, Taylors of Old Bond Street are actually in Jermyn Street, near their peers Trumpers, (and Truefitt and Hill are just the other side of the block).

Taylors sell razors and badger-bristle brushes in the old style (picture below). Their razor and brush kits are very highly esteemed and to my mind, a thoughtful gift if you want to give a gift with English character. Taylors have gift-sets in a manly packaging for those of us who want to do that.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, razors and shaving brushes

Taylors also sell those wonderful old-fashioned colognes, like Eau de Portugal. For me Eau De Portugal is the definitive scent of the traditional barber. The sharp citrus scent as the barber finishes your haircut and clears the tiny cut hairs with a wipe of Eau de Portugal is the fitting end to the ritual. I emerge cleansed and revitalised.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, Eau de Portugal

Taylors also sells the famous Bay Rum cologne, which was once beloved by military men everywhere.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, Bay Rum Cologne

In fact Taylors sell all manner of things a man needs, from shoe-horns to skincare, from travelling kits to toothbrushes (with their logo, of course). If you look on their website you will see all of this and more. Below is a photo of their luxury herbal skin moisturiser which I use extensively. It is easy to work in, has a slight fragrance and is very effective. It s also very competitively priced, at £12.95. A giveaway, as the English market traders like to say.

Taylors of Old Bond Street - luxury herbal skin moisturiser

Also, here is the aforementioned moustache wax, again, highly recommended. It holds form well, is non-greasy and not visible.

Taylors of Old Bond Street, moustache wax

But men’s products are only half the magic of this store. If you walk through the store to the back, where the sales point is, there is Taylor’s barbershop, the “Gentlemen’s Court”.

This is like entering Narnia, going from one world to another. From the main floorspace of the shop the barbershop is not visible. But go to the back, take a slight half-turn and you enter a world of calm manliness, where experienced traditional barbers tend to your every need.

It goes without saying that Taylors shop has class, but the barbershop also has that air of masculine ease which permeates a good barbers. Here you can get a haircut, traditional wet shave and services such as facials, all in the comfort of a traditional leather-upholstered barber’s chair. Nothing is too much trouble and skill and manly competence rule. This is dark wood, barbers in white jackets and of course the smell of Eau de Portugal. Go here, you deserve it. But book in advance, it is a busy shop.

A great shop and an icon of the best of British.

If you cannot get to Taylors, they sell their products by mail order and across the Internet. My last picture is of the front page of Taylors catalogue. Most fittingly it emphasises their service.

Taylors of Old Bond Street - Catalogue

Details:

Taylors of Old Bond Street
74 Jermyn Street,
St James,
London, SW1Y 6NP
England

Tel +44 (0) 20 7930 5544 / 5321

Email: sales@tayloroldbondst.co.uk

www.tayloroldbondst.co.uk

Chinese medicine provides a comprehensive theory and practice, through herbal medicine and acupuncture, to treat many illnesses including specifically male related diseases.  In my Swansea practice I have treated men for many different health problems.

(In this article, Chinese medicine refers to traditional Chinese herbs and acupuncture)     

The treatment of specific men’s diseases in Chinese medicine is known as andrology – this refers to specialised knowledge that describes the physiology of men, as well as the prevention, pathology and treatment of men’s diseases.

Modern Chinese andrology has its roots in ancient literature.  It did not truly emerge in China as a recognisable clinical speciality, with its own professional and systematic literature, until about 30 years ago.  Since its establishment, however, it has continued to develop.  Today there are a number of specialists and researchers of Chinese language sources on andrology.

Andrology as a specialist discipline is usually practised by modern Chinese doctors who practise integrated Chinese-Western medicine, seeking to blend the best of both medicines while striving to maintain the conceptual integrity of each.

The conceptual seeds of andrology in Chinese medicine sprouted over 2000 years ago and many of its ancient root theories still inform the daily clinical practice of modern Chinese andrologists. The principles that are used in practice today in both the East and West have been refined and distilled through use, trial and error, extensive research and development handed down and recorded from generation to generation.

It is interesting to note that the publication of texts on Chinese gynaecology and obstetrics (female reproductive health) in the English language has been happening for many years now.  Yet, apart from one out of print book on urology and male sexual dysfunction, there has not been until now a single English language book on male disorders and men’s health.  This is probably due to the fact that men are more reluctant patients and therefore practitioners have less opportunity to become experts on men’s diseases.

 Men and Treatment

In my practice, very often it is wives or partners that initiate men coming for treatment. Once here, they often commit to a longer-term course of treatment.  However it is arguably true that a general reluctance to talk about and address health issues exists among men.  The possible reasons for this reluctance provoke an interesting discussion and probably in themselves merit a specific paper.

Recently research has been proven showing the effectiveness of Chinese medicine in the treatment of female infertility and in supporting IVF.  This has led to an influx of both woman and men into our practice for infertility treatment. (perhaps

Having practised Chinese medicine for 20 years I have treated a lot of men for a variety of diseases including high blood pressure, neurological diseases such as Parkinsons, MS and MND, asthma, stress, IBS, anxiety insomnia, skin diseases, digestive disorders, prostate problems (benign and malignant) and erectile dysfunction.  I have found Chinese medicine offers practical and effective help for all these problems.

The increasing availability of texts on Chinese andrology in the English language coupled with an increase in men coming for treatment opens up an exiting new area in men’s health.  This is excellent news since the above disorders are extremely common.  Benign prostatic hyperplasia, for example, will give rise to distressing symptoms in half of men in their fifties and up to ninety percent in their eighties. Also, male sub-fertility can be a factor in half of all couple infertility.  In the USA MDs are advised to ask all men over the age of 25 about their erectile health, since erectile dysfunction is often the first, and for a while the only, sign of cardiovascular and other major diseases.

Men’s diseases that Chinese medicine can help with:

Prostatitis

Benign prostatic hyperplasia

Prostate cancer

Erectile dysfunction

Premature ejaculation

Priapism (persistent abnormal and painful erections)

Hematospermia (presence of blood in the ejaculate)

Male infertility

Andropause

The theory of Chinese medicine is expansionist and inclusive and recognises connections and networks within the body called meridians or channels.  With Acupuncture the main intervention is with very fine needles into points on these channels.  Point selection, frequency of treatment and prognosis all depend on the nature of the problem and how long it has been there as well as the overall health and constitution of the patient and how the patient lives.  Stress, diet and lifestyle etc. all play a part.

The actual disease, be it prostatitis or low sperm motility, will define to some extent the treatment received (the points used or the herbs prescribed).  However the overall health and medical history of the patient is taken into account as it is impossible to separate the disease from the person.  Conversely, it is inadvisable to only treat constitutionally and ignore the disease and this is where the new material from China makes an important contribution.  Diseases are categorised (as above) and treatment strategies are outlined; this provides a valuable framework (based on clinical experience) for treating men’s diseases.

In order to illustrate how Chinese medicine can help with the above problems, I will explore two areas in more detail; Male Infertility and Andropause (male Menopause).

Male Infertility                              

Because many cases of male infertility stem from unknown causes and therefore mainstream medical treatment is often unsuccessful, many researchers are looking to alternative and complementary medicine for new ideas about causation and for new treatments.

In Chinese andrology, male infertility is suspected when a couple have been having unprotected intercourse for two or more years and there is no known female factor at play.

In Chinese medicine there are several physiological factors that must come together to allow a man to be fertile. In other words, to the practitioner there may be something in terms of Chinese medicine that is contributing to infertility, which is not being detected in Western medicine.  This then opens up another avenue for treatment.

A typical course of treatment would involve an initial consultation followed by weekly sessions of Acupuncture and Chinese herbs.  The goal of treatment would be to improve the strength and flow of vital energy (Qi) within the body and particularly the reproductive system. Certain herbs and acupuncture points are specifically effective for this.

The effectiveness of the treatment is gauged by how the patient feels after and in between treatments, changes in the pulse and tongue (specific to Chinese medicine) and also from biomedical tests such as sperm motility and sperm count.

Because Chinese medicine addresses symptoms within the context of the person and their life, advice is given on lifestyle and diet etc. where necessary.  The advice, where given specifically, dovetails with the Chinese medicine diagnosis.  For example, for some people dairy products are contraindicated because of their tendency to increase the production of mucus in the body.  Therefore where someone already has too much mucus in their system, Chinese medicine will focus on resolving this and the advice will be to support the treatment by reducing the intake or finding an alternative to dairy products.

Treatment works best when patient and practitioner work together rather than as a passive receiving of treatment.  This approach has always been at the heart of Chinese medicine.

As an example, as well as herbs and acupuncture the following is recommended:

Diet:  Eat a balanced, light and clear diet. This should consist of fresh vegetables and fruits, legumes, whole grains, small amounts of lean meats and seafood.  Avoid eating excessive amounts of fats, sweets and spicy -hot foods. A light diet encourages the flow of Qi and blood in the reproductive system.

Avoid exposing the testes to excessive heat. Normal spermatogenesis requires a slightly cooler temperature than one’s core temperature; natural selection has guaranteed that the testes hang in the scrotum in which the temperature is half a degree lower. Therefore it is advisable for men with infertility to avoid exposing the testes to excessive heat such as hot baths and sitting in the Jacuzzi and also to treat any febrile disease promptly and completely.

Talk: The old saying that it’s good to talk is also true in Chinese medicine; withholding and pent up frustration are both part of a stagnant Qi pattern and talking helps to free the flow of vital energy in the whole body.  This is particularly important when a couple is trying to conceive.  From my experience this is a very stressful time for both people, and couples counselling can be very helpful.

In our clinic we have had good results with increased sperm motility and volume after a course of treatment with herbs and acupuncture when accompanied by diet and lifestyle changes.

Andropause

This is an extremely interesting area of men’s health.  Most men experience a change around about midlife (45-50).  In very general terms there is a slowing down in metabolism – a lessening of physical energy, flexibility, recovery time from illness and in reflexes.  It can for some men also be a vulnerable time when the way they have identified themselves in the first part of their lives starts to change.  The ambition, vigour and high libido, all part of the yang energy of youth, begin to fade.  This is sometimes referred to as a ‘midlife crisis’. 

If the goal is to recapture the vitality of youth then that may not be possible.  If it is to find a satisfying way of being with oneself that incorporates the physiological and emotional changes that are happening, this may be possible.  It is interesting that many poets and artists do some of their most creative work in the second part of their lives.  In Chinese Medicine this stage of life is recognised as the start of wisdom.

In Chinese as well as Western medicine there is a physiological basis for these changes and therefore a link between a physiological change and experience.  Chinese medicine can directly support this change through treatment of the channel system which is a way of supporting and influencing the physiology.

In one of the major passages of the Su Wen (written 2000 years ago) it states “In the fortieth year, kidney yin energy is naturally depleted by half, being depleted by living. In the fiftieth year, the body becomes heavy, and the ears and eyes are no longer sharp. In the sixtieth year, there is yin wilt, Qi (energy) is greatly depleted, there is emptiness below and fullness above.”  From this passage we can see that at forty years old, yin is depleted by half simply as a result of the normal ageing process.

There is also an awareness of the progressive weakening of men’s bodies as they age; this perspective is very useful as it orientates treatment towards specific areas of the meridian and channel system.  As an example, I have noticed in my own practice that many men have lower back and knee problems over the age of forty-five.  Treatment is therefore often focussed on these two areas but also upon the kidney meridian as the underlying declining meridian.   This would be different to treating someone in their twenties with a back problem, where declining kidney energy is not necessarily an issue.

The kidney meridian, as well as being associated physiologically with the lower back, is also associated with willpower and ambition.  In mid life the will gives way to wisdom, so treating the kidneys during this phase of life can help this transition.

In a younger man at a different phase of his life, treatment on the kidneys can strengthen and firm the will and channel it into ambition.  It is therefore within the scope of Chinese medicine to provide a context and a treatment protocol to assist the so-called ‘midlife crisis’.

In mid life I do not see the changes as a failure of the body that needs to be corrected, rather as an evolutionary process with its gifts as well as its losses.  This perspective has important implications in the treatment of men and supports a move away from the predominantly negative stereotypes and clichés associated with ageing.

There is, however, a caveat to the above point that is worth mentioning; Andropause as a Western disease category refers to a collection of endocrinal somatic and psychic changes experienced by men in middle age and beyond.  Mostly it is accepted that these are the normal signs of ageing.  However in some people there are abnormally low levels of testosterone (hypergonadism, testicular failure), in these cases ART androgen replacement therapy is usually given.

Treating men has always been part of Chinese medicine.  Treating specific men’s diseases has until recently been background.  A growing interest in alternative health and fertility, together with more research and translation of Chinese source material has prompted more men to seek help from practitioners such as myself.  I hope I have shown that Chinese medicine offers a highly specialised and effective treatment for many men’s diseases.

Texts referenced:

Principles of Chinese Medical Andrology

Bob Damone

Blue Poppy Press, 2008

(Chinese medicine refers to traditional Chinese herbs and acupuncture)

Biography

Tim Davis practises acupuncture and Chinese herbs in Mumbles, West Glamorgan, South Wales, and has been qualified since 1988.  He has also been in an ongoing men’s group at Spectrum, a centre for humanistic psychology in London, for the last 15 years.

Tim Davies 

For more information visit http://www.acuherbsouthwales.com/ or email info@acuherbsouthwales.com