Those enterprising young tailors at Delvero are hosting a tailoring event.  Here are the details;

Delvero cordially invite you to attend the following event:

“DELVERO ,GENUINE ITALIAN TAILORING ”

23rd November 2011  5:30pm – 7:00pm     

THE TIMES ROOM

107-111 Fleet Street

 London  EC2A 2AB  

Delvero tell me that this event is an introduction to Neapolitan tailoring and the process whereby they make their made-to-measure suits.  Anyone purchasing a suit at this event can take advantage of a discount offer of £50.00 off the price of a made-to-measure suit, on presentation of the Delvero event discount voucher.  Here is the voucher, simply print the image and take it along.   

Delvero made-to-measure suits start at £448.00 plus Vat. 

Delvero Event Voucher

The Solution for shoes

So many regular readers have been asking the same question, how to preserve the life of their bench-made shoes? 

Most readers know the basic rules of good quality shoes.  Just to recap, they are:

•  Do not wear the same pair of shoes on consecutive days
•  Always use shoe trees as they are the only way to air shoes out (get rid of moisture) effectively
•  Clean and polish shoes regularly

 However I have to admit that, like my readers, I find that the soles of my shoes wear out faster than ever.  City streets are tough, particularly in the winter, with grit and de-icing solvents washing around and shoes take a pounding. 

However there is a solution (at least for our English readers).   Here is my solution for Bob and all the other readers who have asked the question, how do I preserve my shoes?   Read on….

The solution

Hard Elastomer ultra-thin soles.  These are extremely durable soles that can be glued over a regular sole.  They are cheap and incredibly hard-wearing.   They are also good-looking and as a bonus, very grippy.  

Here is a picture:

Ultrahard elastomer thin soles

This is not advertorial.  I always write about what I know.  I have been wearing these soles for over two years now and am really impressed with them.  I now have them on almost all of my benchmade shoes. 

The back story (how I found the soles)

Regular readers know that I always advise taking shoes back to the maker for repairs.  That way the shoes go back on the original last, repaired cleanly while preserving the integrity of the welt, steam-pressed (on the last) back into shape.  Consequently they look like new when you get them back. 

I have only broken this rule twice.  The first time was when I found these soles.  The second time was when I used John Sargeant’s repair service.  I wrote about that experience here.

So two years ago I was working very long hours, between London’s City, the financial district and Dublin.  I had a cold that would not go away and in my travels managed to trip over an airport grating, performing a spectacular somersault through the air and gouging a furrow in the sole of my shoe. 

I lacked the time and energy to get over to London’s Bond Street, where the shoe brand’s repair service was.  So I went to Shoe Key, a shoe repair bar that was near my (then) office, to see what they could do about the shoe.

Shoe Key service

I know what you are thinking.  A shoe bar?   But I was pleasantly surprised.  It was clear that City chaps need a better quality of shoe service.  The chaps at Shoe Key are very experienced in handling bench-made shoes.  They recommended the thin-soles as a way of preserving the original maker’s soles and extending the life of the shoes.

As far as they know they are the only shoe service selling this particular thin sole (they import it from Germany).  They recommend it because it does not harm the shoe (the soles are glued over the existing sole), it is virtually undetectable and it extends the life of the sole significantly.  The soles are a product of modern German polymer technology and very, very durable.

Thin soles and results

I have been wearing these soles on my bench-made shoes for more than two years now and my verdict is that they are superb. 

Firstly they are incredibly durable and hard-wearing.

Here is a picture of a pair of Cheaney monkstraps with the thin-sole over the Cheaney leather sole.  I wear these shoes regularly and I had the thin-soles attached in January 2010.   You can see that from the side the thin sole is indetectable.

Cheaney Monkstraps

On this picture you can see how much wear the shoes have taken from wear on the steel toetip, yet the soles are still in excellent shape.  They will not need replacing for a considerable time.

Monkstraps: Sole since Jan 2010

However the next picture is, in my opinion, even more convincing.  These brown marbled calf Grenson gibsons are amongst my most favourite shoes. 

Grenson marbled calf Gibson

 I wear them a great deal.  I take them with me on city breaks, I wear them at weekends, they get a hell of a lot of wear. 

Grenson thin-sole

I had the thin-soles attached in March 2010.  I have been walking on them for 18 months and you can see from the photograph they still have some of the original sheen on the surface.  Incredibly hard-wearing. 

Other advantages

The cross-hatching on the soles is quite subtle and not very deep, yet make the shoes much more grippy.  Anyone who has worn bench-made shoes with leather soles on an icy day in London will know how easy it is to “skate”. 

That said, my experience is that the soles do not detract from the original flexibility of the shoe.  This is partly due to the construction of the sole but also to the care with which the Shoe Key team apply the thin-soles.

Girls and boys

After telling everyone how good the soles were, my wife asked me to take her favourite stiletto sandals to be fitted with a pair.  She was overjoyed with the results.  However a word of warning if you take a pair of girls shoes to Shoe Key.  Be prepared for the banter…..

Details and Prices

I have the thin-soles put on after I have had a full repair by the shoe’s original manufacturer.  The chaps (and girls) at Shoe Key take two days to add the soles.  I generally take the shoes in on Monday and get them back late Wednesday or Thursday. 

The thin-soles are available in black and pale tan. I believe they have other colours but check with them to confirm. 

According to the She Key website (here) the cost of thin-soles is £26.99.  Obviously you need to consult with them before assuming a price, your shoes may need other work. 

I strongly recommend these gentlemen.  They are really good with bench-made brands, especially City-boy favourites like Jeffrey West and Oliver Sweeney.  They have a great eye for good shoes and are very precise about the repair a particular pair of shoes needs. 

Full Service repairs

Up to this point I have focussed on the thin soles but Shoekey provide more than this.  They provide a full repair service for all men’s and women’s shoes, including repairs to Goodyear-welted shoes.  They provide a while-you-wait service (depending on the work required and the time available) and of course they cut keys.  All in all, a very handy set of folks to know about.  

Here is their shop.

The Shoe Key store in Broad Street Station, City, London

Recommended.                   

My earlier article on how to care for bench-made shoes is here.

My earlier articles on good English shoemakers (Including Jeffrey West, Oliver Sweeney and Cheaney) are here and here

We recently had a request for help from reader Greg Evans, as follows;

“Can anyone help me with this…until recently i owned a pair of country brogues..tan, with a rubber sole. They lasted for years and were ideal for cold, rainy days. Unfortunately, i cannot remember their make. they were English, would cost about £200-£250 at todays prices and I think they were made by a name such as arthur, george or cox or at least a straighforward British name. Any ideas? Thanks, Greg.”

Now this is not the first time we have been asked about country brogues, so I thought I would write a piece about them, as a general response of what makes a good pair of country brogues. 

I think the following things are important, and they guided my review of the shoes available in the market today.

• Country shoes must be Goodyear welted.  Commonsense really, but only Goodyear welting provides the toughness needed for a good country shoe.
• Quality uppers, not just the leather but the finishing (stitching, water-proofing).
• They look good.  By looking good, I mean the classical good looks that identify a country shoe.  So a stout rounded toe, bold symmetrical broguing and an overall solid handsome look.

So while I was in central London for a meeting I had a look at the current collections of the master shoemakers and what they had to offer.  I handled each of these shoes and inspected them personally, so here is my view on what’s good and generally available.

Joseph Cheaney

Cheaney’s Avon certainly fits the bill.  The Avon has classic styling with really handsome broguing.  They are also made of very good leather, and have a thickness and rigidity to the uppers which was really only matched by the Tricker’s candidate (see below). The soles are the Commando synthetic widely used by quality brands, they are cleated and very tough.  I have several pairs of town boots that have Commando soles, they are a real boon in the English winter.

Cheaney Avon Country Brogue

For more on Cheaney, we wrote about them here.  Note that the store address has changed since this article was written.

Cheaney have the Avon at a good price point., £275.00

I looked at the Avon country brogues in Cheaney’s new City store, here.

Joseph Cheaney & Sons
9a Lime Street,
London.
EC3M 7AH.
Tel 0207 283 7485

Cheaney’s website is here

Grenson

For Grenson, I consulted Keith John, the manager of Grenson’s City store.  Grenson have the Archie, which is a handsome tan brogue.  This is more contemporary look and these brogues are sturdy and handsome but could also be dressed up to wear in town.  The leather uppers on the Archies’ was slightly softer and more supple than that of the Cheaney.  My experience of Grenson shoes and boots is that they are very easy to break in and quickly become comfortable. 

Grenson Archie Country Brogue

Grenson sell the Archie in a number of versions, including leather-soled, vibram-soled and Commando-soled.  I suggest that you look at their website to look at the full range.

For more about Grenson, we wrote about them here and here

The price of the Archies (Version V) is £210.00

The Grenson City store is here

Grenson,
William Green and Sons Limited, Unit 24, Great Eastern Hotel, Liverpool Street, London, EC2 7QN
44 (0)20 7618 5050

Grenson’s website is here

Barker

As one of Britain’s oldest shoemakers, it is not surprising that Barker have two contenders in their country collection.  These are the Grassington and the Hamilton.  These shoes are interesting in that they are constructed with an extra-strong Goodyear welt to protect against weather and terrain damage.  This is brand trade-marked as “Goodyear Stormwelted”.  These are handsome shoes, a bit less country than some of the other brands, and could easily be worn as a town shoe.  They are a sturdy construction and in terms of the thickness of their leather sit somewhere between the Cheaney Avon and the Grenson Archie, more towards the Cheaney end of the spectrum.           

Here is a picture of the Grassington 

Barker Grassington Country Brogue

For more about Barkers we wrote about them here

The price of the Grassington is  £200.00.  The price of the Hamilton is £200.00

A good place to see Barker shoes is their new store in Jermyn Street

Barkers,
38 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6DN
+44 (0)20 7434 3533

Barkers website is here

Crockett and Jones

The masters of English style.  I went to Crockett and Jones new flagship store in Jermyn Street, where I consulted Huqstable Mushtaq, the store manager.  I have buying Crockett and Jones shoes from Huqstable for many years now and he is the authority on their shoes.  I trust his judgement absolutely.  Funny, after all these years I look older, why doesn’t he?

He recommended two styles from the Crockett and Jones collection, the Bangor and the Pembroke.  Crockett and Jones have got classic style in their DNA, so it is no surprise that these shoes would be equally at home in the city.  These shoes have upscale good looks, their quality French leather uppers shine with a high quality-leather finish.        

Here is a picture of the Pembroke   

Crockett and Jones Pembroke Country Brogue

For more about Crockett and Jones, we wrote about them here

The price of the Bangor is  £345.00 The price of the Pembroke is £330.00

The very best place to see the shoes is at the flagship store in Jermyn Street.  Ask for Huq, tell him John at What Makes a Man sent you.

Crockett and Jones,
92 Jermyn Street, St James, London, SW1 6JE
+44 (0)20 7839 5239

The Crockett and Jones website is here

Church Shoes

The classic English shoe company, now worldwide.  I know their shoes well and their can only be one Church shoe that fits the bill, the Grafton.  The Grafton is a king amongst shoes, solidly built, handsomely brogued.  The uppers are of the highest quality, the leather is thick and takes a beautiful polish.  It has a Dainite synthetic sole.

Here is a picture of the Grafton

Church Grafton Country Brogue

For more about Church, we wrote about them here

The price of the Grafton is £380.00

The Church flagship store in Jermyn Street is here

Church Shoes,
108-110 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6EE
+44 (0)20 7930 8210

The Church website is here

Oliver Sweeney

This was a surprise.   Oliver Sweeney are of course well-known for their cool, edgy shoes.  They are the one of the examplars of urban style.  But for some years now they have been quietly producing a range of Goodyear welted classic shoes.  In their latest collection they have made a very respectable tan country brogue.   

The Walsh is a good country shoe, appropriately wide and high-domed in the toe-cap.  Like the Grenson Archie, the leather is softer than some of the more classic brands, but this is a sturdy, good-looking shoe, with a wide welt and a Commando synthetic sole.

Here is a picture of the Walsh

Oliver Sweeney Walsh Country Brogue

For more about Oliver Sweeney, we wrote about them here

The price of the Walsh is £255.00

Oliver Sweeney have a store here,

Oliver Sweeney,
5 Conduit Street, London, W1S 2XD
+44 90) 20 7355 0387

The Oliver Sweeney website is here

Trickers

Of course Trickers are on our list.  Their country brogues are what they are most famous for.  Without further ado, here is the Tricker’s Keswick.  This is a classically styled, country shoe made of hard-wearing quality leather.  It has a synthetic Commando sole.  It is heavier than all the other shoes featured in this article and the leather is thicker, harder and provides excellent protection for the feet.  Its style lies in its plainness, the fact that it has been made for the rigours of walking the English countryside.

Here is a picture of the Keswick

Trickers Keswick Country Brogue

For mere about Trickers, here is a piece we wrote about them.

The price of the Keswick is £345.00

Trickers Jermyn street store is here.

Trickers,
67 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6NY
+44 (0)20 7930 6395

The Trickers website is here.

My conclusions

Well, this post is for all of you chaps currently looking to buy country brogues.  Personally I would like one pair of every shoe featured here.  However if I had to pick one it would be the Cheaney Avon.  I think it has the right combination of ruggedness and style that would suit me perfectly.  I like the classic broguing, the dark shade of the tan, the quality of the stitching.

Greg, let us know what you decide to buy.  

Feedback welcome from everyone who reads this.

This is a short article.  I wanted to put these pictures up for everyone to see, because I think they are an object lesson in style and elegance.   

I am a customer of James Lock and Co, the famous hatters.  Lock are based in St James’s street, near London’s Piccadilly.  They have a beautiful shop which is a hat paradise for both men and women.  We wrote about Lock before, when we wrote about buying Panamas in London.  That article is here.

The Lock hat catalogue

Today I received Lock’s new catalogue and I really liked it.  Now their hat pictures always make me avaricious to own all of Lock’s hats.  I would like one of every kind.  This would not really work because flat caps of any kind do not suit me.  But their Fedoras, aah, that is another story.  The catalogue has pictures and ordering information for all of Lock’s hats, both the men’s and women’s collections.

Stylish looks and older men

But most of all I liked the marketing.  The guy modelling the hats is just a magnificent stylish dude.  He is old, not just mature but old.  However he has a real grizzled, chiselled majesty about him.  So kudos to Lock for showing that a man can be stylish at any age.  Also, my appreciation to them for having the courage to do something different (using an older model) and for doing it so well.  Here is the first picture.

James Lock Hats

I really like the look, black and white, on a black background, unfussy.  It is a great photograph.  The lighting brings out the model’s good skin tones and plays off his white hair.  Very stylish.

Here is another photograph from the catalogue, more of a fun shot this time.  But still different, still more original than so many other menwear advertising shots. 

James Lock Top Hat

Panamas

Here is another of our older model.  So the glasses in the pocket provide a nice counterpoint to the Panama.  And once again he looks cool, this time it’s partly attributable to his worldly, enigmatic expression, but the Panama pulled low over his brow is what makes it.

James Lock Panama

We wrote before about the quality of Montecristi Panamas and that Lock was the place in London to buy them.  Here is the picture that proves it.

Beautiful women in hats

And then there is this picture, from the ladies collection.

James Lock; girl with Trilby

The model is wearing a ladies trilby.  This is a great shot.  Of course the model is naturally beautiful but the trilby gives her a racy, sophisticated edge that makes her even more beautiful.  If you are reading this and you are a real men, you have to admit that this is one of the sexiest pictures of a woman in a hat that you will ever see.

Finally here is one last shot of our older model.  This shot keeps the black and white motif and adds a black silver-handled cane.  I did not even know Lock sold canes but now I want to see them. 

James Lock; Fedora and Cane

 

 Buying Lock’s hats

You can buy Lock’s hats from their shop.  If you can get there, go see them.  They are the nicest people and you will learn more about style from them in five minutes than in five days with anyone else.  And to see and try on the hats is an experience that any stylish man should give himself. 

The shop details are:

James Lock and Co ltd.,

6 St James’s Street,

London SW1A 1EF

Tel: 44 (0) 20 7930 8874

You can also buy Lock’s hats online.  Their website is very easy to use and on it I found a hat in a shade of grey that I have been seeking for a while, so browsing it was rewarding.  The website is here.   

To get your hat size right, Lock include in the catalogue a nifty little measuring tape with hat sizes in both English and European scales.  Here is a picture of it.

James Lock; hat size measure

Admission

I have to say that I was so taken with the pictures and the catalogue that I have simply posted the pictures.  I do not have Lock’s permission to use these shots and I really hope they do not make me take them down.  I am going to write to them about this post and get their permission retrospectively, but in the meantime read it while you can.

I am going to keep the catalogue.  It is a small work of art.

This is a quick post that I have been meaning to put up for a while.  It’s about a scarf that I bought in Adolfo Dominguez, in London’s Covent Garden.  I bought it in their last sale, for £20.00.  A good bargain. 

I really like this scarf.  It is a an autumn scarf, light and light enough in colour that I can match it up with the golds, reds and mid-blues that I am wearing this autumn.  The scarf is long, voluminous and full, so masses up nicely around the neck.  For all that it is very light.  It is made of viscose, is very soft and has a slight sheen to it, making it a little dressy.  Honestly, I am inordinately pleased with it. 

Adolfo Dominguez scarf

The colour is good for me, the soft white and pale tan are both my colours and point up the colour in my face just right.  This is good, because I am English and my summer tan is fading fast. 

Scarves are a great accessory for a man.  They can be bold and not give rise to comment.  If you know what you are doing and get the colours right, you can make yourself look good for very little money.  Also good scarves are undefinable, you can wear them at any age.

I often pop my head in Dominguez to see what they have got.  In my experience their fabrics are often better than those of comparable brands, thicker, softer and of better quality.  Their menswear is unstructured, which does not suit me so much, as I lean towards being a classic, but the tailoring of much of their clothes, especially their shirts, is undeniably very good. 

Dominguez have some good scarves in stock, though they are into the winter collection now, and so I guess they no longer sell the one shown here.  However what they have is equally inventive and pleasing to the eye.

Also good are the scarves at Pose menswear, around the corner from Dominguez.  Their scarves are definitely winter collection but so good.  As always with Pose, their clothes are that little bit out of step with the mainstream, and consequently rather striking and stylish.   Their colour combinations are original and their look is English modern with flair.  Go browse.

Details:

Adolfo Dominguez : www.adolfodominguez.com

Pose menswear: www.poselondon.com

Here is a quick roundup  of some of the excellent menswear sales that are on in London at the moment.  The economic downturn is forcing stores to have sales with some real bargains.  If there is something you want, now is the time to hunt it out.  Here is the first part; Covent Garden stores.  The second part: Jermyn Street and other stores is here.

Covent Garden 

Adolfo Dominguez 

Adolfo Dominguez, Covent Garden, London

 

Adolfo Dominguez lightweight scarf

Adolfo Dominguez,
15 Endell Street, London, WC2H 9BJ
+44 (0) 20 7836 5013

Pose London

The always original Pose Menswear, Covent Garden.

 

Pose Menswear,
30 Shorts Gardens, London, WC2H (AX
+44 (0) 20 7836 3274

Nigel Hall

Nigel Hall, Covent Garden, London

 

Of-the-minute casual clothes from Nigel Hall with a slight twist of sophistication.  The thinking man’s casual.

Nigel Hall,
18 Floral Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2E 9DS
+44 (0)20 7379 3600

Agnes B

Agnes B, Covent Garden, London

 

Superb sale of their beautifully made menswear.  I bought in this sale, more in another post.

Agnes B,
35/36 Floral Street, London, WC2E 9DJ
+44 (0)20 7379 1992

Paul Smith shoes.

Paul Smith Shoes, Covent Garden, London

 

This sale is almost at an end and the range has been thoroughly picked over.  But, it is Paul Smith and there are some gems remaining, at very reduced prices.

Paul Smith,
40-44 Floral St, London, WC2E 9DG
+44 020 72578942

Here is a quick round of some of the excellent menswear sales that are on in London at the moment.  The economic downturn is forcing stores to have sales with some real bargains.  If there is something you want, now is the time to hunt it out.  Here is the second part: Jermyn Street and other stores, Part1, Covent Garden, is here 

Jermyn Street 

Daks

Daks, Jermyn Street, London

 

Some the finest English ready-to-wear menswear it is possible to buy.  Daks sales are always good for the seriously well-dressed man.  As always their beautiful knitwear has to be the first bargain to buy.  Then followed by their summer jackets, which are selling at very reduced prices.

Daks,

101 Jermyn Street, SW1Y

+44 020 7839 9980

Harvie and Hudson

Harvie and Hudson (main store), Jermyn Street, London

 

Here are Harvie and Hudson’s own brand English wool suits, at reduced prices.  These are good business suits, good wools, well made.  Their own-brand shirts, including their stylish Oxford Cottons, are also selling at reduced prices.

Harvie and Hudson,
96 / 97 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6JE
+44 (0) 20 7839 3578

Barkers

Barkers, Jermyn Street, London

 

Here is the new Barkers store on Jermyn Street.  It has all the high-end shoes in their range as well as the more adventurous new styles Barkers have been bringing to market.  It is a good shop to see the best of what Barkers have to offer. 

Staff here are amongst the friendliest on Jermyn Street…..

And great prices on the sale ranges.

Barkers,

38 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6DN

+44 020 7434 3533

Hilditch and Key and Bates

Hilditch and Key, Jermyn Street, London

 

The wonderful Egyptian cotton shirts of Hilditch and Key.  Also, reductions on lots of other things, summer trousers, pocket squares, their pyjamas.  I have mentioned before that H&K ladies pyjamas make a great gift.  They are sexy in that Grace Kelly/Alfred Hitchcock movie, way.

Hilditch and Key, Bates.
37 / 73 Jermyn Street, London, SW1
+44 (0) 20 7734 4707

Not forgetting that the wonderful Bates hatters, who were obliged to give up their own store when the eastern end of Jermyn street was redeveloped and now share the Hilditch and Key store.  It is such a stylish place that I offer you another photograph. 

Bates (at Hilditch and Key), Jermyn Street, London

There are reductions on Bates hats at the moment, including their Panamas.

New and Lingwood

New and Lingwood, Jermyn Street, London

 

Everything here is classic and good but for me the New and Lingwood sale is always the opportunity to get their beautiful own brand shoes for very competitive prices.  Actually I was surprised by the quality and stylishness of their own brand luggage which is also in the sale.

New & Lingwood,
53 Jermyn Street, St Jame’s, London, SW1Y 6LX
+44 (0) 7493 9621

Crockett and Jones

Crockett and Jones, Jermyn Street, London

 

 I did not buy here, already owning a fair number of their fine shoes.  This is a good sale, a chance to get their fine shoes at good discounts.

Crockett and Jones,
69 Jermyn Street, St James, London, SW1Y 6PF
+44 (0)20 7976 2684

Trickers

Trickers, Jermyn Street, London

 

The best benchmade brogues in England.  Fathers buying a first pair of Trickers for their sons is a rite-of-passage for many lucky English boys.  Some very keen bargains in this one.

Trickers
67 Jermyn Street, St James,
SW1Y 6NY

Tel: +44 (0)20 7930 6395

Boggi

Boggi, Jermyn Street, London

 

Finally a look at a relative newcomer on Jermyn Street.  Boggi are taking over the world, a couple of weeks ago they opened yet another store, this time in Paris.  It is understandable, Boggi have really conquered the niche of competitively priced Italian (Milanese) menswear.  Even without a sale their suits, trousers and casual trousers are very competitively priced.  In the sale, even more so.

Boggi,
49 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX
+44 (0) 20 7629 2495

Some others….

Orvis

Orvis, Dover Street, London

 

Wonderful outdoor clothes, but let’s not overlook their very stylish chinos and competitively priced Panamas.

Orvis,
36A Dover Street, London, W1S 4NH
+44 (0)20 7499 7496

Ninos

Ninos, Soho, London

 

Colourful, elegant, exuberant shirts (and suits) from this independent Italian family menswear house.  I am a huge fan, own Nino’s shirts and love them, goddamn Italian movie-star shirts.  Nothing else like them in London, except maybe Eterno.  Got a date?, need to be a peacock for an evening?, make an impact?.  Go see Ninos’ clothes.  The family are friendly and fun, a great shopping experience and Italian-sexy menswear.

Nino’s,
49 Brewer Street, London, W1F 9UG
+44 (0)20 7734 3234 

Gieves and Hawkes

Gieves and Hawkes, Saville Row, London

 

And finally the guvnor of them all.  Gieves and Hawkes have a huge range of bargains in store.  As always in their sale I think the reductions on their ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits are really good value.  But everything here is ridiculously competitive.  Come to think of it, every G&H suit I have bought has been in their sale. 

Gieves & Hawkes,
1 Savile Row, London, W1S 3JR
+44 20 7434 2001

Thats all for now, more stores, more purchases coming soon.

JVR

Moss Bespoke

There is much to like about this store, especially if you are an entry-level bespoke customer.  Firstly the store stocks some ready-to-wear suits and shirts, so you can go in and browse without feeling obligated to purchase a bespoke suit. 

Secondly the store stocks a number of bespoke suit “types”, suits that embody a particular style, e.g. slim-cut single-breasted peaked lapel, double-breasted etc.  So you have a start point and can use the example suit to develop your own look.  It is also hugely helpful in the design and measuring process, as the staff use the suits in order to assess your views about cuffs, lapels etc.  On that note the service here is aimed squarely at the first-time bespoke customer, friendly, patient and quietly knowledgeable. 

This store also has a made-to-measure shirt service, which I have used.  I like it a lot and can recommend it.  They have sample collars and cuffs on display, with enough variation that you can design a distinctive shirt.  I particularly like their selection of collar shapes.  Also I like the way in which they approach the measuring process and spend time asking what kind of fit a customer feels comfortable in.  Like a number of shops are starting to do, they over-measure, which I find to be an excellent way of producing a good tailored shirt.

Here is a picture of a shirt I had made by Moss, apologies for the colour resolution.  The shirt is a raised white on pearl pink weave, in a fine light cotton.  I had it made with the Moss wide collar which also suits me.  I like it a lot and I like it that Moss had such a distinctive fabric on offer.

Raised white on pink shirt

However, what I like above all else is their method of handling shirt swatches.   They hang an A5 sized swatch of each fabric on a rail.  The swatches run in colour order and it is easy to get a feel for colour, texture and pattern. 

This is such a great idea!

It is a vast improvement over those tiny swatch books where it is not really possible to get a real sense of colour or texture.  Hell, if I ran the world, it would be a law that tailoring services had to use this method, it makes such good sense.

Moss’ bespoke service starts at £250.00 which is incredibly cheap for a bespoke suit.  A friend of mine used the service and for him, the options (at £250.) were too limited for him.  He spent £450.00 and was very pleased with the result.  Still very cheap for a bespoke suit. Made to measure shirts start at £95.00

A good starter shop for the aspiring stylish man.

Introduction

I first heard of Del Vero tailoring when they offered to host a tailoring evening at my club, the Adam Street Club.   In my view London needs as many Italian tailoring services as it can get and decided to find out more.

Who they are

So the basic details are that Del Vero turn out to be two talented young men, who are tailors in the Neapolitan tradition.  They are Terry Seraphim (great name) and Mario Nobile, and they have both an eye for style and a track record in stylish menswear.

They run a by-appointment made to-measure tailoring service in Holland House, the other side of the road from the Gherkin, in the City, London’s financial district.   They have been getting good word-of-mouth amongst us City boys and they have established a regular clientele on the basis of their good service.

Neapolitan style (the Del Vero interpretation)

Most of our readers know the main differences between Neapolitan and English suit styles.  However in brief:

Neapolitan style is of course Italian and so suits tend to be a skinny, tighter fit.  Neapolitan suits have a softer “line” than English-cut suits.  In particular the shoulder is softer and has a gentle slope that compliments the rounder figure.

Neapolitan suits fabrics span a wider colour range, with brighter paler blues and greys.  Italian and especially Neapolitan wool worsteds often have some mohair in the mix, giving them a brightness and presence that some English fabrics lack.

Though a devotee of Savile Row I also wear Italian suits.  I have a swimmer’s physique, with rounded muscular shoulders, which the Neapolitan cut suits.  Del Vero suits are based on this model, updated to reflect English tastes.  Their suits are a modern slim cut, with a slight Neapolitan softness that accentuates a manly shape.  So the style is slightly sexier, more immediately stylish, than a similar English suit. 

Here is an example of the Del Vero style.  Notice the slight upcurve of the breat pocket, it illustrates the softer line of Italian tailoring. 

Blue Jacket

 

What they do

Del Vero make made-to-measure suits.  But their vision is what sets them apart.  They provide a personal service which is almost bespoke.  Here’s how it works.

Del Vero work by appointment, out of their studio in Holland House.  Here they have ready-to-wear suits made up in all the typical styles they work in.  These suits are try-ons.  So there are multiple styles of suit for Del Vero clients to choose from. A customer picks one off the rack and that is the start-point for the suit-design dialogue.    

However this is a tailoring team who put fun into style and really build a personal relationship with their customers.  So if you want a three piece suit with a low-gorge David Beckham waistcoat, Del Vero do that.  If you want a special suit for your wedding, well they do that too.  In fact if you have an idea of what you want and cannot quite visualise it.  Del Vero will help you to design your suit. 

And there is a little extra skill that these guys bring to the party.  Mario is an accomplished artist and will draw your suit as you design it.  So as you design your suit, it takes shape on paper in front of you.   This seems to me to be truly useful service, like an identikit picture you can adjust even before the suit is made.  Below is a picture Mario created for me.  This is a double-breasted suit in the style of Tom Ford.   It is good enough that I can tweak it before the cut is made.  

How do they do that?

Firstly Terry and Mario have a wealth of experience in designing suits.  They spend a lot of time working with their customers to understand what they want and how to make a design work. 

But the real secret is that they over-measure.  After a suit design has been agreed, Mario and Terry take hundreds of measurements, designed to ensure that a customer’s suit is as close to a perfect fit as it can be.  This is an exacting process and a first fitting takes a minimum of one hour.  However it is this level of care and precision that enable these gentlemen to produce a suit that is almost bespoke.  This is a first cut that often fits first time.  This is good if you a time-poor chap who does not have the time for multiple fittings.

Fabrics

As an Italian suitmaking company, Del Vero naturally have a preference for Italian fabrics.  However they also make up suits in a wide range of English wool worsteds and lightweight wools, as customers request.  Their Italian mainstay fabric range is Barberis.  I really like Barberis fabrics for their quality and the “presence” of their cloths, the depth of colour and the quality of the weave.  Barberis fabrics are also very durable and make for a good business suit.  If you have ever seen an Italian menswear magazine you will have a good idea of the quality of Barberis suits. 

Barberis blue-grey suit detail

Making the suit  

A customer’s measurements are shipped to the tailoring workshop near Naples.  Del Vero’s Italian partner oversees the making of the suit, keeping Mario and Terry updated by email.  A suit based around one of Del Vero’s regular patterns takes around four working weeks to make.  Variations might take a little longer.  In my experience this compares very favourably with many other made-to-measure tailors.  Also, because Del Vero are flexible and able to respond quickly they can sometimes produce a suit even more quickly, given the right circumstances.  These are tailors who understand the City and the pressures of modern life.  They pride themselves on being able to go the extra mile for their customers.

Mario and Terry, Del Vero's tailoring team

 

The cost

Del Vero are focused on tailoring, keeping their overheads low.  Their made-to-measure suits start at £520, depending on fabric and requirements.  This is a very competitive price for made-to-measure in London.  Certainly if I were looking to move up from ready-to-wear suits I would give these guys a call.

Who should buy

If you are a younger man with ambition, who has worked out the fundamental truth, that good clothes help you to success, then I recommend Del Vero to you.  If you are not a standard shape and need to look good in fitted clothes then I doubly recommend Del Vero to you.  These are the guys who will take the trouble to make sure the suit is yours.  Del Vero have the experience, the tailor’s eye and will give you a personal service.  They give you a lot for the money.  Give them a try.

Details:

Del Vero Tailoring

Holland House,
1-4 Bury street,
The City,
LONDON,
EC3A 5AW

Tel : +44 (0) 2072206520

A short piece about the very good John Rushton Shoes.  John Rushton are a quality English shoe maker and shoe store.  They sell a variety of men’s shoes from their store in Wimpole Street in London.  They are situated between Oxford Street and Wigmore street in the centre of London, a minute’s walk off the main tourist trail.  I recommend them to my many American readers who always have an appetite for English shoes.

Here is a picture of the shop:

John Rushton Shoes, Wimpole Street, London

John himself serves behind the counter and has a small but friendly and knowledgeable staff.  He sells several brands of shoes that the discerning style-maven should be aware of. 

Firstly he sells Alfred Sargents shoes.  Afred Sargents are a long-established classic British shoe company, based in Rushden, Northamptonshire.  The fourth generation of the Sargents are now in the saddle, still producing classic bench-made shoes.  Sargents shoes are no secret to connoisseurs of good shoes, their classic good-year welted styles have a huge following.  Personally I really like Sargents’ classic suede brogues, individual and a little quirky.

Secondly John sells Sanders British shoes and has the widest range of their shoes of any retailer I have seen.  One of his big sellers is the Sanders Chukka boot, a suede boot with a wide synthetic rubber welt.  After all these years they are still very cool, most notably being worn by Steve MacQueen (they have a picture in the shop).        

Here is a picture of the boot:

Sanders Chukka boot

John also sells Allen Edmunds classic American brogues, which are very difficult to get hold of in England.  These are the real deal, beautifully engineered classic brogues, with the true American long wingtip and a wide stormwelt.  The only way these shoes could be more masculine would be if they came complete with a Bowie knife and a bottle of whisky.  One of the best American shoe brands, and John sells these shoes for around £240.00, which I consider is a great price.

And so to my experience of John Rushton;

I had heard a great deal about the excellent shoe repair service at John Rushton but had never used them.  I happened to be passing and had with me my Grenson Salisburys, which needed new soles/heels.  Here is a picture:

Grenson Salisburys

These shoes work well with everything from suits to jeans, the French chisel-toe makes them a cool and versatile shoe.

Now my rule (and advice) is wherever possible, send the shoes back to the maker’s own service.  However I had not been able to get back to the Grenson shop.  So I took them into John Rushton. 

The staff were courteous and said it would be no problem to repair the shoes with a full sole.  The cost was £60.00 (you pay for the repair in advance).  They told me that their cobbler would be able to repair them in 10 working days.  This was interesting and very welcome.  Ten days to do a quality repair on bench-made shoes is no time at all and beats the pants off other repair services.  I was going to be very interested in this. 

And they did it.  Ten days later, the shoes were ready.  The quality of the repair was excellent.  And all of this with old-school courteous service and expertise. 

Here is a picture of the repair:

A fine repair courtesy of John Rushton Shoes

So John Rushton come to your with a hearty WMAM recommendation.  Whether you want a shoe brand that stands above the common heard or you want your favourite shoes repaired well, go see John Rushton.  John Rushton is a classy store that makes a man proud to be British.

Details:

John Rushton

93 Wimpole Street,

London,

W1G 0EQ

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7629 1888

www.johnrushtonshoes.com