Like many Englishmen of Scottish descent, I will be celebrating Burns Night with a good Scotch malt whisky. Here is a short guide to both Burns Night and 10 malt whiskies that I favour. At the end of the post I have added 5 specialist shops where you can buy good Scotch whisky. If you cannot get to these stores, have no fear, they have excellent web sales services, as detailed below.

Burns Night
Burns Night is a celebration of Robert Burns, Scotland’s national poet, and takes place on the 25th January. Born in 1759 and died in 1796, Burns was the poet of the Scottish countryside and its people and no man did more to create the romantic vision of Scotland that we have today.

Rabbie Burns had a hard and difficult life. He was of a hard-working but poor family and hunger and sickness oppressed him all of his life. I can only admire a man who endured all that and still managed to produce poetry, journals and commentaries. He was also a man who really enjoyed bedding the ladies, as you will find out if you read any of his biographies. For those of us who do not know his work well he wrote “Auld Lang Syne” with which we sing in the New Year. We remember him for his passion as much as his poetry and the Scots are rightly proud of him.

Burns Night Suppers
A Burns Night supper is a convivial, yet ceremonial gathering of friends. There are several stages in the evening, as follows:

In Scotland the guests are often piped into the room or hall by a live piper. However at most suppers the guests are piped in to recorded traditional Scotch music.

The host or chairman makes a short speech of welcome and toasts Robert Burns (Scotch whisky, of course).

The party then recite the “Selkirk Grace”, a short grace before dinner, which Burns is reputed to have written. The text is below:

Some hae meat and canna eat,
And some wad eat that want it;
But we hae meat, and we can eat,
Sae let the Lord be thankit.

The traditional Haggis is then piped to the table and Burn’s poem”To a Haggis” is recited, to a whisky toast.

Supper should then commence and further entertainment can added as the meal proceeds. Typically this is recitations of Burns poems, playing traditional Scottish songs and of course more toasts, which will of course consume more whisky.

Traditionally, a Burns Supper ends with a rendition of “Auld Lang Syne”

Scotch Malt Whisky
Malt Whisky is one of a man’s great joys. One of the marks of a stylish man is that he knows enough about malt whisky to get by in company. The varieties of taste, the interesting and varied histories and the individual character of each whisky make this a fit subject of interest for a worldly man.  Selecting, drinking and enjoying Scottish single malt whiskies is a stylish man’s pastime.

Think about it. Somewhere in Scotland, a real craftsman painstakingly distilled a malt whisky into a cask, loved and cared it for a year, matured it for three more and at the end of had produced a whisky that is unique…and probably marvellous. And you are going to buy it for a few pounds (or dollars). Drinking malt is a fine luxury experience and a cheap one at that. It is easy to start, find one you like and go from there, there are ten suggestions below.

It’s nice to see how drinking Scottish Malt Whisky has grown in America in recent years. 

Drinking malt whisky
When it comes to drinking malt whisky I am a classicist. I like my malt in a whisky tumbler with just a drop of water. And I mean a drop, just enough to release the aromatics and oils of the malt, to bring out the flavour. I cradle the tumbler of whisky in my hand until it is at body warmth and the whisky is warmed. Perfection.

The only other thing you need is a good glass. Here is my favourite whisky tumbler, from my favourite glassmaker, Dartington.

Dartington Whisky Tumbler

The glass is here. If you are a romantic man, buy two. Your best girl will be bowled over by the loving symbolism of it, trust me.

So enjoy Burns Night.   

Ten Malts and where to buy them
Here are ten malts I like. They are a good range, from the light to the heavy, in no particular order. I have not added the year of distillation because this is a short post, but my usual experience with malts is the older the better. The gentlemen at the stores listed below will advise you on years and “expressions” as particular distillations are called.

Isle of Jura
One of my favourites and a favourite of guests at my house. By the standards of Islay whiskies, of which this is one, Jura is very lightly peated. Still there is enough smoky peat flavour to give Jura a slightly salt-sweet flavour. A good malt for beginners because even the young distillations are quite smooth, with a slightly malty, honey and caramel flavour. It’s flavour is light and soft and lingers in the mouth without being overpowering.  An easy malt to start with.

Blair Athol
A fruity, malt, with a dry aromatic finish with just a hint of the sherry casks it was matured in. Blair Athol is pale, slightly spicy and has a minty bite to it.  Though that may sound a little light, it isn’t and Blair Athol has a strong finish. Blair Athol was the malt of choice of my father, it was his “sociable” malt that he drank with other men. If was drinking in family, he would drink Ardbeg, which is a very different proposition (see Ardbeg below).

Blair Athol is beloved by the Japanese, though I do not know why this malt in particular. However it does account for why there is not a lot of this whisky available and its price is a little higher as a result. A “fine” malt whisky, which you could offer as an after-dinner drink to non-whisky drinkers.

Glen Ord
A bit of an acquired taste, Glen Ord is a malty, heathery, leathery, minty whisky with a lot of bite. It attacks on the tongue and is a complex strong whisky and very full-bodied. The iodine and burnt toffee aftertaste alone lets you know you have a real whisky on your hands. But stick with it and it has some very fine flavours in it. Not a whisky for everyday but for special occasions. For me, there are times when I want to be alone in my own company. Those are the times I drink Glen Ord and I really enjoy it.

Laphroaig
I do not know what it is about Laphroaig but it inspires the most fanatical loyalty. Men swear by it. In an earlier stage of my life I would drink no other malt and was forever singing its virtues. However I am recovered now…as long as I am not offered any…..

Soft and fruity mixed in with the salt taste of the sea, Laphroaig charms the tongue and is a sweet and peaty taste. It has a loose, slightly oily texture and has a slight salty, peaty aftertaste. Though that may not sound attractive, combined with its refined and complex flavours it is a wonderful taste. I think it bypasses the thinking brain and goes from taste-buds direct to pleasure centres. Try it and, after a few, you are likely to find it addictive.

Glenmorangie
Glenmorangie is the best-selling malt in the world, so I do not have too much to add. I will say that it’s light, heathery taste makes it a good drinking whisky. It is a joyous, slightly mischievous malt, with a fruity aftertaste that creeps up on you.  I like it as a malt for pubs and bars and a very good one.

Oban
Bring on the big guns. Oban is heavily perfumed, smelling of honey, caramel and malt. It is sweet, big in the mouth and very distinctive. Once you have tried Oban you will remember it. In my experience this is a good whisky to give to men as an after-dinner drink. It looks like a malt whisky should and has a dark brown colour that goes perfectly with its dense, firm taste.  This is good as an after-dinner malt, especially for brandy drinkers, it has the requisite heaviness.

Bowmore
Well, if Laphroaig is addictive, Bowmore is more-ish, in that “just one more…” way. Sweet, malty and soft, smelling slightly of sugar and spirits, it is incredibly easy to drink. It has a full briny taste in the mouth and a smoky aftertaste.   The sweet smoothness of it will make you want more.  A bottle of Bowmore does not last any time at all in the Van Rijn household, it is one of our all-time favourites. If you are going to give it to friends, make sure you have enough for refills.

Ardbeg
Whisky monster! The perfume of Ardbeg hits you as soon as you pop the cork. A sweet peaty smell that will permeate the air. This is an immensely peaty whisky with a tang of leather, a slight taste of baked bread and an underlying sweetness. The taste of it will fill your mouth up, it has a strange taste of leather and burnt toast.  I am really not sure how to characterize this whisky but somehow it has become a favourite of mine. A favourite in the Van Rijn family and a big drink for those times when you want or need one.

Macallan
Macallan has been called the writer’s malt, so it is appropriate that I mention it here. The English writer Kingsley Amis, used to say that he kept a bottle by his typewriter and took a nip for inspiration at regular intervals. However Mr Amis was a great storyteller, so this may simply be apt invention. For a long time Macallan was also considered the connoisseur’s malt, so it was (purportedly) the drink of the man of style. Writers looking for a short-hand indicator of style would have their character drink Macallan.

Macallan is a strong, rich silky mouthful with great tastes of toffee, sherry, brown sugar. It is full-bodied and lingers in the mouth for a long time.   It bites, in a clean refreshing way.  I always think of Macallan as the taste of celebration and feel very honoured when I am served it by friends.

Springbank
Tastes fruity, fresh and dry, with the scent of plants and a fiery whisky taste that is mellower in older vintages. Wonderful light, complex, fresh taste, heather and mint and salty sweet water.  A reviver, morale booster, glad-to-be-alive drink. For launching ventures, spiting in the eye of your enemy, embarking on passionate love affairs. True style in a glass. Currently my favourite whisky.

A Scotch malt whisky book
If you want to get a working introduction to malts, David Stirk’s book is a well-illustrated guide to Scotch malt whisky. He explains the process, varieties of whisky and how they differ. He lists all the whiskys. Great for the novice, maybe a little too simple for anyone else. A good first reference and I am indebted to him for his list and guide to the actual distilleries.

David Stirk guide to Malt Whisky

Where to buy Malt Whisky in London
In recent years, the number of specialist stores selling Scotch malt whisky in London has increased. More power to their elbow, I say. Here are five I like.

 The Whisky Exchange
The Whisky Exchange is in Vinopolis, the wine museum, near London Bridge, in London. Quite simply, a great experience.

The Whisky Exchange, London

The Whisky Exchange must have the largest floor space of any whisky store in London. They have yard upon yard of shelves of malt whisky. There is a “sweet spot” within the store on which it is possible to stand and your entire field of vision is filled with malt whisky!

Here is the photo to prove it.

The "Sweet Spot", Whisky Exchange, London

This is the place to go if you want to explore Scotch malt whisky. The front of house   team are walking encyclopaedias of malt, being both impressive and very helpful. Their motto is “we try to give the type of service you got thirty years ago”. For my America readers, one of the things they do well is ship malts to overseas clients, a service in which they have lots of experience. For my city readers, this is the perfect antidote to the depressed markets. From your patch, the Whisky Exchange is five minutes from you, across London Bridge. Go see.

The Whisky Exchange does so many things exceptionally well, see their website for the list of services.

Details:

The Whisky Exchange

1 Bank End, London Bridge, London SE1 9BU

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7403 8688   

www.thewhiskyexchange.com

Milroys of Soho
Milroys is a London institution and is where I learnt about malt whisky. I owe these gentlemen a huge debt of gratitude for their knowledge, quiet service and sheer style. Over the years their advice has been vital to me, it was Milroy’s who first advised me to buy Blair Athol for my father, just one of their many pieces of wise counsel. My wife buys gifts for me from them and likes their service and their suggestions a great deal.

Milroy's suppliers of fine whisky to gentlemen connoisseurs

I love this shop, for me it is part and parcel of having style. Every man should visit Milroy’s once, because to do so gives you an immediate understanding of connoisseurship and English style. If you are visiting England then Milroys is worth a visit, it is part of the true English experience.

Like the Whisky Exchange, Millroys have a lot of experience in shipping to other countries. But what makes Milroys so wonderful is the service. If you are a novice at malt whisky, need advice, then you could not be in safer hands. If you are at all knowledgeable then you probably go to Milroys for the quiet pleasure of doing so.

As you may have surmised from the preceding description, Milroy’s are adept at helping beginners to the malt whisky world.  I was in there a few days ago and they were helping a woman buy for a male friend, something they do very well.

Milroys website also sells their malts. It excels partly because of their expert tasting notes. Have a look see.

Details:

Milroys of Soho

3 Greek Street, London, W1D 4NX

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7437 2385   

www.milroys.co.uk

The Vintage House
Another London tradition and one of the finest malt whisky collections in London. Vintage House have an extensive collection of malts bottled by individual bottlers. Independents bottle single casks of years of their choosing called “expressions”. This means that they produce some very individual malts which are rare and often have an originality and finesse that makrs them out from the standard vintages.

A truly vast range of Malts at the Vintage House

Vintage House have small room where, behind glass, there are hundreds of malt whisky expressions. It is a browsers delight, though some of the prices may cause you to need a reviving dram. The staff at Vintage house provide a knowledgeable, breezily cheerful service and can tell you all you want to know about malt. They have over 1,400 malts in stock, so you are sure to find one you want.

Details:

The Vintage House

42 Old Compto Street, Soho, London W1D 4LR

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7437 2592   

www.sohowhisky.com

Royal Mile Whiskies
Royal Mile are an Edinburgh company, with a shop in London. They won Whisky Retailer of the Year 2003, 2004 and 2006, and have established quite a track record. They offer smart, thoughtful service and whenever I am in the store I see them patiently advising newcomers about malt whisky.

Original Whisky's and great prices

They stock a wide range of malts and also stock some of the best books about malts.  I particularly like the fact that they have older vintages of some of the more common malts.  It gives one the ability to explore a particular malt in more detail.

Their tastings are very good, often being cleverly themed. Their most recent tasting was of whiskies from distilleries that have closed, with the opportunity to buy these now rare whiskies.  Prices are very good here, very competitive.

Details:

Royal Mile Whiskies

3 Bloomsbury Street, London WC1B 3QE

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7436 4763   

www.royalmilewhiskies.com

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
If you enjoy Scotch malt whisky, then this is the club for you. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is both a group of like-minded enthusiasts and an independent bottler of malt whisky. They bottle and sell single-cask single-malt whiskies from over a 120 distilleries at remarkably competitive prices. They have club-houses in Edinburgh and London (the London clubhouse is pictured) where members can buy a dram of any of the society’s whiskies or indeed buy a bottle. They have restaurant, which sells wine to accompany dinner, as well as malt.

The bar at the Scotch Malt Whisky society

Membership is £100.00 per year, which gets you a presentation case of malts, membership in London and Edinburgh, the right to buy their exclusive whiskies, the socity’s magazine and lots more. This is a great price and to be honest, I think they are giving it away.

Details:

The Scotch Malt Whiskey Society

19 Greville Street, off Bleeding Heart Yard, London EC1N 8SQ

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7831 4447   

www.smws.co.uk

Drinking Whisky and listening to music
I like drinking whisky late at night. Music on, low, lights likewise. Something sophisticated, melodic and soulful playing quietly. Here are three of my choices:

From the Capitol years, when Frank Sinatra did some of his best work. Sad songs elegantly sung.

The jazzy blues

  Frank Sinatra: The wee small hours of the morning

Immaculate romantic Bossa Nova. Slow, yearning, manly and sexy songs from the master at his peak.

Late-night Bossa

  Antonio Carlos Jobim: Stone Flower

Quietly atmospheric, intense and sensuous jazz. Never loud, always skirting the base rhythm, Micheal Brecker’s masterful sax draws you into his mood.

melancholy, soulful sax

  Michael Brecker: Nearness of you: The Ballad Book

Enjoy Burns Night this year, my best wishes to you on the occasion.

JVR

Fashion for Men Magazine, Issue 1

I was in my favourite newsagent’s when I saw the monster that is Fashion for Men. 

Fashion for Men, Issue 1

For  some time now magazines like “Self-Service and “Another Magazine” have been publishing as “ book-magazines”.  These hard-bound, glossy paper mags are the size and weight of a book, with the style and attitude of a magazine.  Advances in computer-typesetting and digital printing have made this possible.  These book-magazines are usually published twice a year and strive for a kind of permanence in the ephermeral world of style mags.

Well, clearly this idea has jumped the gender barrier, because Fashion for Men is just this kind of book-magazine.   

This is big, I weighed it, it weighs 6 Kilos.  Hell, I carried it.  Occasionally, writing about menswear can be a slog but it has never been an actual sweat before….. 

Here is a picture, with my mobile phone as size comparison.

The biggest men's magazine on the block

So what do you get for your 25 Euros?

The magazine is the venture of Milan Vukmirovic.  Vukmirovic is currently the creative force behind Rome’s Trussardi  brand.  Late last year I was in Trussardi’s flagship store in Rome, recently redesigned by Vukmirovic.  The brand now has a young, arrogant but elegant style, think La Dolce Vita for the IPad generation.    

Vukmirovic is also a fashion photographer, artist and has several other hats.  He writes an introduction in the magazine.  He says the magazine is a guide to men’s fashion and he hopes it becomes a benchmark for men to refer to. 

In my view the magazine feels very European.  This is reinforced by write-ups of forthcoming exhibitions in Paris, European art and the type of American culture that appeals to Europeans, classic black American music etc.   

The articles are short and serve to support the menswear as art, style theme.  There is an interesting interview with African designer Adrien Sauvage and some superb pictures of his African-influenced menswear.  

There are couple of articles that strike a false note.  One is an article solely about Chanel’s Exclusif’s for women, which is striking in it’s irrelevance. 

The quality of the photography and the ads is of course stunning.  Fashion for Men is printed on heavy art paper and shows the current menswear brand ads off to their greatest effect.

The pictorials, though beautifully photographed, are varied in their impact.  The most successful of them are photographed by Vukmirovic himself.  So a pictorial set on romantic Italian influenced clothes is beautifully and simply photographed.  The clothes are beautifully presented and look wonderful.    

Here is a picture of an Etro shirt from one of the articles.    

Etro Shirt, from photo-pictorial in Fashion for Men magazine

However, some of the other photsets do not match up to this standard.  There is a piece on Givenchy’s new collection, menswear influenced by tropical images.  However, the point of the pictorial is thrown away in favour of a homo-erotic paen of praise for the (admittedly handsome) model.  Others are just as bad, but with less point, an exercise in art photography where the menswear comes off a bad second. 

This lack of consistently is further exacerbated by a Vukmirovic-shot photoset of men’s suits.  This is superbly done but comes as a shock, because it is an almost exact copy of the style used by Fantastic Man magazine.  It is completely different from anything else in this magazine. 

So at this point the magazine stands in need of better artistic/editorial control.  What is good is that the upscale brands clearly trust Vukmirovic and have given him clothes from the very top of their range.  These coats, jewellery and accessories are extragavant and beautiful and would not usually be seen in a fashion mag, so when the mag works it works well. 

Similarly there is a piece by Vukmirovic, on trends, which is superb, an incredible eye for the details that make men’s style.  This is the single most useful piece in the magazine.

So I am undecided on Fashion for Men.  I bought it because it is what I do.  Naturally Fashion for Men needs a little time to mature and the second issue will really tell whether it can become a benchmark for men’s style.  It has some tough competition in the shape of Fantastic Man and Man about Town magazines, who have already staked out the sophisticated, stylish man territory.

If Fashion for Men can use Vukmirovic’s design sense to give the magazine a coherent visual style then I think they can be a contender.

Peckham Rye ties

Peckham Rye, Carnaby Street, London

Peckham Rye; from the cockney rhyming slang Peckham Rye = Tie.

I had seen Peckham Rye’s ties in the Selfridges tie bar and liked their verve and extravagance.  However I had never been to the shop before.

If you can get there I urge you to go.  The founders of Peckham Rye are the sixth generation of a London tailoring family and the shop celebrates that tradition wonderfully with well-made menswear.  

The shop is a kind of menswear Tardis.  It is small but packed with wonderful clothes.  The shop sells Peckham Rye’s shirts, ties, scarves and other accessories.  The measure of a good menswear shop for me is how much I want to buy.  And here, I would have happily bought the entire collection. 

Everything in Peckham Rye’s collection is made in England, they are rightly proud of both the design flair and quality of their clothes.  Their shirts are a great example, clearly good quality but vibrant with style and classy colour.  They are like a kind of Thomas Pink shirt, with added pizzazz.

Other great buys include their classic fringed silk scarves, in solid colours with a pin-dot pattern.  These are simply downright beautiful. 

And the shop is great fun, they have the most amazing photographs of fifities South London, showing stylish men wearing those classic English-cut suits that little tailors used to turn out in those days.  Run by the co-owners, David and Martin, this is really is an original and interesting menswear shop.   

Yellow pin-dot silk square, Peckham Rye

I bought this classic silk square.  Though it is an old-school classic I wanted it for the hand-finished stitching, which you can see in the photograph below.  It is tactile and real.  The best thing I have bought for weeks.

Yellow pin-dot silk square, stitch detail

The shop is on Newburgh Street, just off Carnaby Street.  Go see these guys, they have beautiful menswear at good prices.  Just go, this is how menswear is supposed to be made.

Details:

Peckham Rye

11 Newburgh Street,

Off Carnaby Street,

London, W1F 7RW

Tel: 0207 734 5181                 

www.peckhamrye.com

Cary Grant.

“I pretended to be somebody I wanted to be until finally I became that person. Or he became me.”  Cary Grant.

Cary Grant was born on this day, January 18^th 1904, in Bristol, England.  He rose from working class poverty in Britain to become one of the greatest American movie stars that ever lived.  Here is a short appreciation on the occasion of his birthday.    

For me, he was and is the very model of a successful man.  I long ago learned that there was so much one could learn from his movies and from him, the deeds of his life.  As I have grown older I have appreciated him more and more.  When I was younger I appreciated him for the way he dressed, his worldliness, his connoisseurship.  Now I am older I appreciate him for his self-awareness, his generosity of spirit and his love of life.  He was and remains my inspiration for writing What Makes a Man. 

The truth is, I still do not understand Cary Grant and I think that is a good thing.  His reason for not discussing his personal life was sound; he did not feel that he could be a model for anyone else.  He was ahead of his time here, understanding how we each play to our own psychology.  But his reticence is intriguing because it hides his huge achievement in inventing himself, in becoming Cary Grant. 

What he did was almost impossible, he started out poor, badly educated and badly parented, and became a movie star, a worldly connoisseur of art, clothes, food, a successful businessman and a father.  It is no accident that Graham McCann’s definitive biography of Grant is entitled “Cary Grant, a class apart”.  For Cary Grant invented a man for the twentieth century, a gentleman of quality but of no particular class.      

Cary Grant, early on in his career

 

Bettering himself

What we do know abut Cary Grant is that, from somewhere, he had a deep-seated desire to better himself, and he never lost that desire.  He was only nine years old when he first expressed an interest in clothes, he asked his mother for a pair of white flannels.  But this was no disinterested interest.  Cary had developed an affection for the butcher’s daughter and even at a young age, realised that good clothes would make him more attractive to girls. 

Initially it was his willingness to listen and learn that set him apart.  He went to New York as part of a vaudeville acrobatic troupe when he was twenty.  When the act folded he stayed in America.  By the time he was twenty-four he was appearing in musical comedy on Broadway.  He knew musical comedy was a route out of vaudeville and learnt to sing, paying for lessons with the money he earned from a variety of odd, often downright odd, jobs, that were related to show business.  In those days when his reviews came in, they were very mixed.  However Cary Grant was not dismayed, he read about his faults and duly set out to fix them.  Before he was through he added a touch of Noel Coward, a slinky elegance of movement and an accent that combined English diction with American pronunciation.

At the same time he started to become the Cary Grant we know today.  He became a “walker”, an escort for attractive women and in the process met a lot of accomplished and successful people.  By his own admission he learnt all he could from the people he met.  At twenty-four he started clipping articles on all kinds of subjects, something he did for his entire life.  It became his habit to make light of his achievements but the truth was, he had a ferocious work ethic.        

This shows up in small but inspired ways in the movies.  In the early scenes of “To catch a thief” Grant wears a trousers, striped shirt and scarf combination that set the tone for the movie.  These were not his own clothes, which Hitchcock felt were wrong for the character.  He found the clothes he wore by looking at the style of local men in the South of France (the setting for Thief) and buying in local stores.  Once again, looking and learning. 

Incidentally Grant’s shirt and scarf “look”, caught on hugely when the movie came out and lots of men took it up, unfortunately, “very badly” in the words of Thief’s costume director.   

There was a bit of a downside to this learning.  Like many man who teach themselves to be self-sufficient, Grant became used to doing everything himself.  His second wife, Barbara Hutton, in a rare critical comment about him, once said that “He was a frustratingly difficult man to care for”.     

Listening

One of the things that set Cary Grant apart from other actors and other men of the period was his ability to treat women with respect and listen to what they had to say.

All of his female co-stars said the same thing.  Cary Grant listened to them; he was not simply waiting for the chance to speak his lines.  He did this with great care and it gives his scenes with his co-stars a texture, a depth and a timing that other stars could not match.  Part of Cary Grant’s mystique as a star was his chemistry with his female co-stars.  This was partly because he was a truly sexy, handsome man. 

However it was also because he built that chemistry, by listening to them and making them believably human.  It was part of his gift that he brought that feeling to the screen.  There is a wonderful early scene in Indiscreet, where Ingrid Bergman’s lonely, beautiful actress is flirting with Grant.  Grant is clearly both flirting and hesitating at the same time, but more importantly it is clear that he is responding to Bergman’s conversational gambits.  There is a realism about the tone and timing that carries one deeply into the scene. Magnificent acting by both of them. 

Cary Grant and Ingrid Bergman, in "Indiscreet"

 

Self-possession

If Grant was courteous and listened to women, he was still very comfortable in his own skin.  His self-possession is evident in many of his roles.  He would listen to women but he had his own view of the world, downright challenging.  This confidence, even aggression, made for great interplay.  In my opinion he never did it better than in the “The Philadelphia Story” as the divorced husband of the imperious Katherine Hepburn.  Grant’s  classlessness also works beautifully here, as he neither conforms to hierarchy nor flouts it.  By starting from a position of certainty he consistently out-manoeuvres Hepburn’s icy aristocrat.

Cary Grant and Katherine Hepburn in "The Philadelphia Story"

Alpha Male

By the time we get to the making “To catch a thief”, Grant was perfectly Cary Grant.  The first part of Hitchcock’s genius was to have Cary Grant almost play himself, cosmopolitan, cultured, stylish, but with an element of dangerous alertness.  Here is the man that so impressed Ian Fleming that he wanted Cary Grant to play James Bond.  It is ironic (and a tribute to Cary Grant) that Fleming, a terrible snob, wanted the poor working class lad from Bristol to play his officer-class spy. 

Hitchcock’s second act of genius was to unleash the danger, the aggression in Cary Grant.  It starts with Grant’s trick with a shotgun to fool the police and it ends with his willingness to hurl Brigitte Auber’s girl burglar from a fourth-floor rooftop.  In between there are times when we are never sure whether we are going to get the well-dressed lover or the underworld parolee.

Now, Grant is the complete master of the woman he is with.  Grace Kelly is beautiful, selfish, arrogant and flirtatious as the wealthy but spoilt Francine Stevens.  However, Grant’s John Robie is unperturbed by her behaviour.  The more Kelly’s Francine tries to play Grant’s John Robie, the more he teases her, showing her who has the power.  There is nothing coarse here; Grant defeats Kelly with both wit and style, leaving her no alternative but to fall in love with the man who has bested her.

Cary Grant in "To Catch a Thief"

The end for now

I am going to stop here.  Cary grant had formed the man he wanted to be by the time of “To Catch a Thief” and that seems a good place to stop.  There are so many other things to talk about, his generosity, his care and loyalty to his friends, his romantic weakness for women.  That will wait for another time.  But there is one thing that I still find amazing, after years of watching his movies and reading about him. 

The man turned out so well. 

Given his difficult start in life, there is no English class-war defensiveness in him, no embittered distrust, no predilection to make excuses for any part of his life.  His story is of a man who was determined to succeed and happy to do the work that he needed to do.

Cary Grant created Cary Grant and he created a very special man.

God Bless you Mr Grant, wherever you are.

Details

Movies

There are of course so many wonderful movies.  Here are five of my favourites:

To Catch a Thief

Cary Grant was never more urbane, more stylish or more interesting than in To Catch a Thief

The Philadelphia Story

Witty and exceptionally funny.  In some ways it is the ultimate  screwball comedy, in others there is no movie quite like it.  Sharp, funny and clever. 

Charade

Before Bond, Grant made a very classy, worldly American spy.  Setting the movie in Paris played to Cary Grant’s strengths as a stylish, cosmopolitan man.

Only Angels have Wings

Howard Hawks movie about mail flyers in the Andes.  The camaraderie works here.  Surprisingly, so does Grant as a tough aviator disdainful of romance.

Indiscreet

This movie has grown on me in recent years.  Cary Grant play a less-than-ethical character and yet is still appealing to the audience.  To carry that through an entire movie and not lose the audience is great acting.  

Books

Graham McCann

Cary Grant, a class apart. 

Though McCann sometimes feels like he is a little cold on his subject, this is the definitive biography, and treats Grant’s acting with the consideration it deserves.

Richard Torregrossa

Cary Grant, a celebration of style

This is a book of bits and pieces, but wonderfully illuminating on Cary Grant’s style, his relationships with his friends, his view of movies.  Like a mine full of nuggets of gold.

Yann-Brice Dherbier

Cary Grant, a life in pictures.

This is a new book which unfortunately contains some errors of grammar, and, I think, one error of fact.  That said, it is a beautifully researched book and contains some stunning studio photographs that have rarely been seen.

I found this Tom Ford documentary on the Fashion Copious site, which is one of the most interesting fashion sites I visit.  It has an intelligent quality, being both visually beautiful and with a definite opinion on what makes for good fashion.

I found the documentary to be fascinating, it really revealed how Tom Ford works, following him during his work.  The overarching storyline is the lead-up to the launch of Tom Ford’s first womenswear collection, which was about a year ago.  So even though neither his menswear or his men’s fragrances were included it was a very interesting documentary.

Looking at it a second time, I think that what makes it so interesting is Tom Ford’s willingness to reveal himself and his unique view of how style works.  I really felt I learnt something in watching this video.  I think that Tom Ford is the most interesting designer working at the moment, with Ralph Lauren coming a distant second.

See what you think, the documentary is here.     

We wrote about Tom Ford’s style evolution and menswear here

Here are a few of the menswear sales now on in London’s Soho.  Soho is interesting because a number of independent menswear stores/designers are based in Soho and they are producing some interesting casual clothes.

Sunspel 

The new Sunspel store in Old Compton Street, London

This is the new Sunspel store in London’s Old Compton Street Soho, which opened in early November 2011.  Sunspel are an English brand with a very good history.  As a brand they are known for making fine cottons, including underwear, and good knitwear.  Previously they sold their clothes through department stores and concessions but now they are selling through this their own (very nicely designed) shop. 

There are some good bargains in this store, especially a range of fine wool sweaters at around 40% discount.   

 Sunspel

40 Old Compton Street, London W1

T: 0207 7344 491

CP / Stone Island 

CP / Stone Island flaagship store, Beak Street, London

 

Aqua 

Aqua, Beak Street, London

A new store and a new brand(around 18 months old, very cult, very hip right now.  And a really good collection.   Things to buy here are their beautiful skinny jeans, (up to 50% off) designed to perfection.  However the top buy has to be their quilted black jackets.  These are a re-designed version of an English quilted jacket, but cropped off short and cut tight and slim.  Superb, stylish and sexy, in the sale.  A must-buy.

Aqua,
35 Beak Street, London, W1F 9SX
44 (0) 20 7287 1200

Liberty

Liberty, Soho, London

From the new and the cult to the very big.  The Liberty sale is always a very good one, because they sell so many cutting edge menswear brands.  I browsed this sale and there are great discounts on edgy brands such as Kris Van Asche, Dries Van Noten, DSquared, Paul Smith and others.  As you will see from the picture below there is a huge amount in the sale with some substantial discounts.

Liberty of London,
Fenton House,, 55-57 Great Marlborough Street, London, W1F 7JX
+44 (0)20 7573 9848

Nico Didonna

Nico Didonna, Soho, London

New designer with some really interesting ideas.  Each collection here is very individual, with some great original menswear ideas.  A couple of seasons ago they had a modern club take on John Wayne cowboy shirts, which were trulydifferent, clever and stylish.  This is a good sale, but the menswear collection is small, so go to this one  as a priority.

Nico Didonna,
16A D’Arblay Street, London, W1F v8EA
+44 (0) 20 728 0207

Reading this week:  Willpower By Roy Baumeister and John Tierney

It seemed an apt time to read this book and to write about it. After all, it is the New Year, the time of resolutions, of mustering our inner strength and self-control and aiming to improve ourselves. The problem that I have is that I lose motivation and my good intentions peter out into nothingness. For men, willpower is extremely important, because men are by nature more impulsive than women, and consequently have more distractions in a working day. So, if like me, this is your problem is that you lose the impetus to press on with self-improvements, then this is the book for you. Let me tell you why.

Who wrote it

Professor Roy Baumeister is a distinguished psychologist, who has written more than 450 scientific publications. John Tierney is a New York Times science columnist. Professor Baumeister has spent a great part of his working life in research into willpower. So this book is the culmination of a lifetime’s work in the field of willpower and self-control.

What Willpower is

Professor Baumeister came to the study of willpower via studies into self-esteem. He realised that in terms of achieving one’s goals, willpower was a more important factor than self-esteem.  But what was willpower?

John Tierney is good here, and summarises the research and evidence of years spent discovering the true nature of willpower, he tells a lucid, entertaining story and often funnystory. It makes for a great read but here in summary, is what Professor Baumeister discovered:

 Willpower is real. It is a brain function that operates within the brain’s conflict management (problem management) function.

Willpower is a real resource. We all have a reservoir of willpower, the size of which depends on several key factors. Everything we do uses our single reservoir of willpower. So finding a parking space, getting a meeting with your manager, completing a difficult task, all come from that one reservoir of willpower.

Willpower gets depleted by our efforts. The bad news is that our willpower gets depleted whether we succeed or fail. Once our willpower is gone, we enter a state where, try as we might, some tasks are beyond our capability. So we then have to replenish our willpower. The really good news is that we can strengthen our willpower.

One of the best things about Willpower is that it describes in simple and practical terms how anyone can improve their willpower. The fact that Willpower so clearly explains how to raise one’s willpower makes it a wonderfully useful book.

The most useful thing that I can do in this review is to list some of the ways in which Professor Baumeister advises us to strengthen and conserve our willpower Here are five ways to improve willpower;

Get a good night’s sleep. Our willpower is always at its highest after proper rest.

Meditate. Meditation increases willpower.

Keep a To-Do list. Worrying about things you have to do is proven to deplete willpower. A To-Do list removes that worry (even if you do not complete the tasks) and preserves your reservoir of willpower.

Make a priority and fixate on its goal. This will increase your willpower and aid your execution of the work.

Introduce small regular tasks into your life (that require willpower to complete) and keep working at them over time. This will increase your willpower.

The list above contains some of the simpler suggestions from the book, for those of you who want techniques that are even more effective, please buy the book. It is possible to build an entire willpower regime from the book’s advice.

Using the book’s techniques

I took several of the book’s suggestions and put them into effect a week ago. The effects were immediate, my productivity is now much higher than it was a week ago.  One of the things that the book suggests is to take tasks that you currently do and regularise them, put them within a planned schedule. I did this and found that the tasks became easier and my execution of them quicker.  Willpower and Professor Baumeister’s techniques work. This is a marvellous book, truly useful for any man. I recommend Willpower wholeheartedly.

I found this article “20 things I love about men” via a link at Instapundit, a site of interesting articles about US life and politics.  In a time when it is so easy to denigrate men and their lives, this is a refreshing change.  The author, Neely Smith, lists 20 things she loves about men.  Not much to add, except to applaud the article and urge women to write more like it.

Here are some of the good sales that are now on in Covent Garden.

Fred Perry

Polo shirts, sale rail, Fred Perry, Covent Garden

Fred Perry,
14 The Piazza, London, WC2E 8HD
+44 (0)20 7836 3327

Pretty Green

Pretty Green storefront

 

I am always amazed at the ego involved in Pretty Green stores.  They are temples to Liam Gallagher, with gigantic photos of Liam wherever you look.  Having said that, his clothes are a really good take on brit-pop style, fun, inventive and well-made.  I do not know who Pretty Green’s designer is but they have done a superb job.  Very stylish for what is essentially a mass-market brand.  The picture below gives you an idea of the scale of Liam-worship in the store.

Liam worship, Pretty Green, Piazza, Covent Garden

 

Pretty Green,
57 Carnaby Street, London, W1F 9QF
+44 (0) 20 7287 3122

Ben Sherman

Good sale.  Currently on a roll with some clever shirt designs.  Also a really good range of shoes and man-bags.  The man-bags are really stylish and much cheaper than comparable ranges.  A good sale to put on your priority list.

Ben Sherman, Covent Garden London

Ben Sherman,
49 Long Acre, London, WC2E 9LN
44 (0) 20 7 8366196

Adolfo Dominguez

Adolfo Dominguez sale, Covent Garden

 

One of my favourite stores, we wrote about them here.  As always this is a great sale for classy casualwear.  Knitwear is original in its look, finely made and has a slightly aristocratic edge.  Jackets are slim, well-cut and well made.  For me the jeans, chinos and casual trousers always stand out at Dominguez and this year is no exception, the quality is really obvious.  Awesome sale and in keeping with our Dominguez tradition, here is a picture of their luxurious scarves (in the sale too).  The staff are just lovely here, a great place to shop.

Scarves, glorous scarves, at Adolfo Dominguez

Adolfo Dominguez,
15 Endell Street, London, WC2H 9BJ
+44 (0) 20 7836 5013

The Natural Shoe Store

I am finding that London shoe store sales are much less generous this year, in terms of ranges that are discounted in the sales.  The Natural Shoe Store is in this group, in that they only have a small selection of men’s shoes on sale.  However what they do have is good, including Fry boots and some very stylish suede and leather casual shoes from those cool designers at Folk. 

Natural Shoe Store, Neal Street, Covent Garden, London

Natural Shoe Store,
9-15 Neal Street, London, WC2H 9PU
+44 (0)20 7836 5254

Baracuta

These guys have seen a serious rise in their style credibility over the last couple of years.  So many stylish men seem to be wearing their classic casualwear.  This sale is a must-buy (there was a name TV actor buying when I was scoping out the sale).  As the picture says it’s a 50% sale, with savings on wonderful original Barracuta Harrington windcheaters, classic chinos and other really good stuff. 

Baracuta, Covent Garden, London

Baracuta,
9 Shorts Gardens, Seven Dials, London, WC2H 9AT
+44 (0) 20 7836 2678

Massimo Dutti

With their winter collections, Dutti seem to have been carving out a place in the Timberland outdoorwear territory.  So this sale is good for knitwear, shirts and casual trousers.  However the pick here must be the leather long-cut jackets.  Prices on these (in the sale) are excellent.

Massimo Dutti, casual jacket

Massimo Dutti,
125-126 Long Acre, London, WC2E 9PE
+44 (0)20 7395 0250

Moss Bros

Moss storefront, Covent Garden, London

Big reductions on their suit ranges, Boss, Cerruti and own brand Savoy Tailors Guild (biggest discounts are on the own brand).  Their leisurewear range is Gant, high quality preppy style and this range is in the sale too.

Moss,
27 King Street, London, WC2E 8JD
+44 (0)20 7632 9701

Nicole Farhi

Nicole Farhi storefront

 

Stylish suits, knitwear and jeans for the more mature man.  A good range, dark colours, flair and style.  Great discounts, up to 60% off.

 Nicole Farhi

11 Floral Street, London, WC2E 9HD

+44 (0) 20 7497 8713

Nigel Hall,

English classic menswear, redesigned with a twist.  Knitwear in unusual and striking colours, a Nigel Hall version of the classic pin-stripe, redesigned as a cool clubbing suit.  Lots more, and a big selection in the sale.  This sale is generous and interesting.  Think a younger, cheaper Paul Smith style.

Nigel Hall storefront, Neal Street, Covent Garden, London

Nigel Hall,
18 Floral Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2E 9DS
+44 (0)20 7379 3600

Agnes B

Ending on a high note, this is an excellent sale.  Agnes B have been a creative roll with their menswear over the last few seasons.  Superbly tailored classic casualwear, elegant, slim, sophisticated.  I have friends who swear by Agnes B.  When a piece wears out, they have them repaired, they like those clothes so much.  Superb shirts here, in the sale.  Upscale casual, beautifully tailored, for the stylish creative 30 and up man.

Agnes B

Agnes B,
35/36 Floral Street, London, WC2E 9DJ
+44 (0)20 7379 1992

That wraps this article up.  More to come soon, including Jermyn Street.

To read our Bond Street sales reports go here and here.

 The Italians

All the high-end italian menswear brands seem to be doing the same thing. They have a discreet notice in the window advertising their sale but none of their pieces are marked up. Basically everything (except their made-to-measure services) is at a considerable discount.

Corneliani

Corneliani, New Bond Street, London

 

Some of the best menswear ever made. Picks in this sale have to be the shirts and the suits. In shirts, particularly the Corneliani ID range (their younger menswear range) are very fine this season, relaxed casual style with the beautiful fabrics and tailoring that Corneliaini excel in. The suits are even better. Corneliani are currently working a late 40′s Milan/Rome look, with wide lapels, a soft but noticeable curve on the shoulder and a number of three-piece suits in sumptuous fabrics. Suits are around £1,500.00 non-sale, so 30% off that will work out to be quite a saving.

Corneliani,
131-132 New Bond Street, London, W1S 2TB
+44 (0)20 7493 7921

Canali

 Some very good bargains in the new Canali flagship store. Some very fine jackets in wool and silk, and their beautifully made suits. Topcoats here are interesting and different, including Canali’s Italian take on duffel-coats, in both wool and synthetics. Canali also now have a made-to-measure service, with prices starting at around £1,500.00 (depending on fabric and requirmenets). A good sale, the suits and topcoats have to the pick here.

Canali London, suits in the January sale

Canali,
126-127 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1DT
+44 (0)20 7290 3500 

Eterno

One of my favourite shirt shops in London, the Salerno-based Eterno.  Eterno are about to undertake a major refurbishment of their store in Conduit Street, off Bond Street, so are having a refurbishment sale.  In terms of discounts this is the best sale I have found yet.  Their beautiful and flamboyant shirts, in wonderful Italian fabrics, are selling for £60.00 (2/3 off).  Their hand-finished Italian shoes are selling at £90.00.  Do not miss this sale, they are pretty much giving it away.

Eterno, Conduit Street, refurbishment sale

 

Eterno,
19 Conduit Street, London, W1S 2BH
+44 (0) 20 7493 5603

Victorinox

Just across the border in Switzerland, Victorinox have moved from knoves and watches into being a vertically integrated Swiss lifestyle brand.  Their sale includes their casual range, including their shiny, military-influenced parkas, as well as their knitwear and polo shirts.

Victorinox, knitwear in the sale

 

Victorinox,
95-96 New Bond Street, London, W1S 1DB
+44 (0) 20 7647 9070

Tateossian

Npw we are really moving further afield.  Tateossian (I think they are Armenian originally?) are having a sale.  Apologies for the poor quality of the photograph but it was a reminder that they have discounts on their very manly, chunky cufflinks.  This shop is in Conduit Street like Eterno.  So you can get your shirts and cufflinks in one easy stroll.

Tateossian sale, Conduit Street, London

 

 Tateossian

27 Conduit St
London W1S 2XZ
Tel: +44 20 7499 9924

That’s our second report concluded. 

Fot the first part of this article on Bond Street sales go here

For Covent Garden menwear sales go here