So spring is finally here. London is alternating between bright sunlight and hard rain, sometime both in a single day. One of the indicators of spring is that Panama hats are now appearing (reappearing?) in the best English shops.

As most readers will know Panama hats actually come from Ecuador but first became popular in America and Europe when worn by the workers building the Panama canal in the early 1900s, hence “Panamas”. The hats are hand-woven from straw by skilled craftsmen in Ecuadorian villages.

In recent years there has been a resurgence in the popularity of Panama hats as more men return to dressing well. A Panama hat can be dressed up and down, and is the perfect accompaniment top a summer suit. A Panama is an essential item in the wardrobe of any well-dressed man, and is one of the finest things a man can own.

I was walking around town today and thought I would post a few photos of those I spotted.

Bates

First stop was Bates of Jermyn Street, the doyenne of Hatters. Bates is superb, expert, professional, and masters of good English service. Bates is beloved of Americans, Japanese and just about anyone who loves good headgear. One of the great things about Bates is that they fill their shop-window with hats; it is always a feast of hats. Just look what they have done with Panamas;

Bates Gentlemen Hatters - shop window

And for those men who really want an exotic hat what about the Camargue Canvas (middle centre-left of the picture below). Now there is a summer hat! If a Panama is too classic for you, the Camargue has a more natural charm which smacks of Aussie cattle drovers and jungle explorers.

Bates Hatters - Camargue

But for me the masterpiece is the Fedora Panama (Centre of the picture below). This is a Panama straight from the movies. If you planning dastardly deeds in South America or trying to break the bank in Macau, then only a Panama as dashing as this one is up to the job. This is the bold man’s Panama, for the man who is supremely confident in his style.

Bates Hatters - Fedora Panama

Bates Panama’s start at around £65.00. Some of their straw hats are cheaper. They sell a selection of their hats online and if you cannot get to London to buy a Panama, their retail website is the next best thing.

Details
Bates Gentlemen’s Hatter
21 Jermyn Street
St James, London, SW1Y 6NP
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7734 2722

www.bates-hats.co.uk

Lock and Co
The London master hatter, who have sold hats to many celebrities including Prince Charles the Prince of Wales, whose modest little palace sits opposite their store. They have also sold hats to another discerning gentleman, namely my good self. I have a Lock Fedora and it is quite simply a thing of beauty.

Lock and Co were founded in 1676 and have a wonderful history of hat-making. They are an integral part of the history of British style. I really urge you to visit Lock’s shop, their staff are warm, friendly and will help you find the best hat for you, be you beginner or expert.

Here are two Panama’s from their current window display; I particularly like the second one, for the sleek crown, subtle but stylish, with a beautifully fine weave.

Lock Hatters - Panama

In this second picture you can just see the Panama hat display inside the shop. Like Bates, a feast of Panamas.

Lock Hatters - Panama with band

Lock’s Panama’s start at around £130.00. Like Bates they also sell their Panama’s online.

Lock also sell Monte Cristi Panamas. Monte Cristi is a town on Ecuador’s central coast and connoisseurs agree that Monte Cristi Panama’s are the finest, with perfect weaves. Monte Cristis cost around £200.00.

Details
Lock and Co
6 St James Street,
London, SW1A 1EF
Tel: 44 (0)20 7930 6616

www.lockhatters.co.uk

William Evans
English country clothes makers and gun makers are also based in London St James. William Evans has an enviable reputation for superb quality at surprisingly competitive prices. The proof of this was immediately visible when I entered the shop. Evans are currently selling their manly and beautifully made stockman’s coat (similar to an Australian duster coat) for £150.00. A definite bargain.

That said, their Panama’s are even more of a bargain. William Evans sell a firm, heavy quality Panama made by the Stetson company (yes, that Stetson) for £35.00. Beautifully stitched and finished, these are clearly handsome hardwearing hats. If you are a newcomer to Panama’s and want to limit your investment you can do no better than buy one of these. Outstanding!

Willian Evans - Panama by Stetson

Apologies for the angle of the picture, I was trying to get the Stetson logo in the shot and clipped the Panama. But do go see for yourself, they are excellent Panamas. Alison Taylor is the manager here and she really knows her store, go see her for a great Panama.

Details
William Evans Ltd
67a St James Street,
London SW1A 1PH
Tel +44 (0) 20 7493 0415

www.williamevans.com

Swaine Adeney Brigg
On to Swaine Adeney Brigg, the classic English leatherwear and travel goods company, where they sell Panamas made by the marvellous Herbert Johnson company, who have an illustrious hat-making history. I am privileged to own a Herbert Johnson hat (not a Panama) and I think that they have that little extra bit of style. They have a classy English jauntiness about them.

Swaine Adeney Brigg - Herbert Johnson Panama

Swaine Adeney Brigg have four styles of Panama. These are “rigid” Panamas (they also sell one which can be rolled and carried in a tube). The Panamas almost have pride of place in Swaine Adeney Brigg’s hat display. However the top spot goes to the swashbuckling Fedora that they made for the most recent Indiana Jones movie. If you want one, you can buy one whilst trying on your Panama.

Please note that the Panama in the picture is not the rollable one, which has a different style, with a narrower, English style brim.

Swaine Adeney Brigg’s Panamas start at around £160.00. Once again they are available from their retail website.

Details
Swaine Adeney Brigg
54 St James Street
London SW1A 1JT
Tel: +44 (0)20 7409 7277

www.swaineadeney.co.uk

Orvis
Well, if you know Orvis, you will approve of them. They make great country clothes in the American style (they are originally from Vermont), with heavy country check shirts, tough jeans and stylish but rugged knitwear. I love their stuff, it has a distinctive style and is great value for money.

Orvis storefront - Dover Street, London

I was surprised to find that their Panama is light, delicate and very finely made. Surprised only because their brand tends towards more heavy manly clothes. That said this is a simply beautiful Panama, especially at a price of £55.00. As you will see from the photograph the weave is a work of art. They also have some heavier straw hats, at similar prices.

Orvis Panama

If you are going to Orvis top buy a Panama then I can give you no stronger recommendation than to also buy a pair of their magnificent Zambezi chinos. Tough, slim-fitting, stylish, with leather finishing on the pocket inserts and the belt-hitch, they are distinctive and very stylish. They are also cheap at £75.00. For that price buy two and save a second journey.

Details
Orvis
36A Dover Street
London W1S 4NH
Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 7496

www.orvis.co.uk

So five suppliers of good Panamas, all in the same part of town, a pretty good result. As always, if you read this and you want to let me know of other Hatters that you admire, I will happily look them up and write them up.