This post was prompted by something I read on a finance blog, http://cityunslicker.blogspot.com/ The writer predicts that a large number of magazines will fold this year, as a result of the US and European credit crunch. Already Conde Nast have closed Mens Vogue and others are under threat.

It made me think about the magazines I read and I thought that this was an opportunity to express my admiration and support for them. These are not all clothes magazines but the common thread that joins them all up is they all contribute something to being a man, and to my personal style. I hope you like the post. Please feel free to comment with recommendations for magazines that you enjoy. I am always on the lookout for new and entertaining magazines to write about.

Here goes;

Fantastic Man
Originated by two Dutch iconoclasts, this is the magazine that should have failed, but is instead the men’s magazine that all others aspire to, or should. Full of meaningful complex articles about real men, Fantastic Man celebrates men of every style and stripe.

Mostly shot in black and white, the underlying theme of the magazine is what makes a man. Influences include the English idea of a gentleman, European worldliness, a sense of culture and a dry editorial humour. All this adds up to a modern take on the philosophy of what a man could be. Their clothes shoots are striking and original, as they shoot real men, mature men, not models and not young men. They are really good on photographing and presenting high-end clothes and you really get to see how the clothes hang. If you buy no other, buy this one. Total style.

Man about Town
MAT is a relatively new magazine and comes out biannually. I was not taken with the first issue but am really impressed with it now (Issue 3 is on the newsstands). It is by far the most informed men’s style magazine, and has the best understanding of classic brands and their history. Its articles are long, informed and really well-written.

Their interviews are rare treats. They avoid the usual tired subjects (footballers, pop stars) in favour of powerful, creative men who have something interesting to say. They are making the media, television and movies their stomping ground and doing it better than anyone else. Their clothes shoots are good, with some original brands included amongst the usual subjects. Issue 3 also has a magnificently erotic nude photoshoot of Helena Christensen, by Solve Sondsbo.

Buck
Buck is new. It focuses on street style and modern European menswear. It is a one-stop shop for articles and pictures about modern designers like Dries Van Noten, Neil Barrett, D-Squared and other brands that you need to be young, slim and cool to wear. Early days (Issue 2 is on the newsstands) but this is a slick, quick and lively magazine. It covers the clothes and styles that other magazines don’t and does that well, with knowledge and passion. Buck is simply and pleasingly presented and is an easy read. A magazine to watch, it will be interesting to see what they grow in to.

Details
From the new to an oldster. I have always liked Details because it is so useful. Unlike some mags, Details photographs men’s clothes clearly and precisely, so you can see what the deal is. They also provide the details you need to browse and buy. One of the things they do really well is that they put together “looks” combinations that work on real men, unlike magazines who let stylists produce combinations that would only work at a fancy-dress party. Details never forgets that it is a style service for men. Each issue is packed with invaluable information.

Paradis
The mission if you chose to accept it, is to take a men’s erotic magazine completely upmarket. Paradis do this by using good writers, clever illustration and a sophisticated French view of lust. They have staked out modern art (on which they cannot be bettered), historic military personalities and pop culture as their subjects, which they do really well. Their erotic photographs are superb, shoots by famous photographers, often featuring models and actresses you never expected to see nude, in very revealing poses. They do clothes well and men’s jewellery and perfume better than the clothes magazines. Erotica for the grown man. And great style.

Paradis has more attitude than Daniel Craig complaining about how difficult it is to be famous. In the case of Paradis, attitude is a good thing.

L’Uomo Vogue
A limited audience for this one because it is written in Italian. However it constitutes a master-class in good clothes and how to dress well. It has an unerring instinct for European men who have style and interviews them accordingly. One of the main reasons for buying it is the bi-annual style guide, which is a complete catalogue of upscale menswear brands.

The Chap “A journal for the modern gentleman”
A bit of an acquired taste, the Chap takes the view that style and elegance are in the man, not the clothes. That manly style is about a structure, discipline and grace that can be learnt. The polar opposite of the chav and the hippy, the Chap is a man who is competent in the world, knows how to succeed at the game of life and is a true individual. The Chap is basically a modern version of the English gentlemen. Think John Steed of the Avengers, with a modern political sensibility.

The Chap makes fun of itself, in a rather self-effacing British way. For all of that, the humour is razor-sharp and witty. And hidden within the magazine are small articles which really make a man think about who he is, how he lives his life. Interesting and different.

Objekt “Living in style”
Because style is not just clothes. Objekt is a magazine of modern living filled with streamlined, minimal house design, both interior and exterior. Objekt is the work of Hans Fonk, a Dutchman obsessed with modern design, who has never met a plain white room that he did not love.

If you want to know how to design your home with style (without paying for interior designers) this is the magazine to buy. Men who aspire to elegance in all areas of their life can buy this magazine and simply steal from it as many ideas as they wish. Beautifully photographed, with houses and interiors from all over the world, this is design porn for the worldly man. Seriously, this is a great mag and will improve the visual style of your home.

Monocle
Because a real man knows what he is talking about. Monocle is the brainchild of Tyler Brule, who created Wallpaper magazine back in the 80’s and which became the style bible for the 90’s.

Monocle says it is “a briefing on global affairs, business, culture and design”. It commissions articles from the best writers in the world on all of those topics. An issue is likely to have an article on modern Salvadorean politics alongside one on the resurgence of craft industries in Europe. The music reviews will have Japanese pop next to Finnish folk-metal. Clothes photoshoots always include a range of brands (Japanese, Scandinavian) that rarely get a showing in English and American magazines. Packed with facts and hugely entertaining, each issue can be profitably read many times.

This is the worldly man’s magazine. It is intelligent, does not talk down to its readers and is dedicated to bringing the best information to them. As print magazines die and web entities take their place, Monocle is the way of the future for the hard-copy magazine. It’s breadth and depth of coverage, it’s smart and cultured design and it’s devotion to its readers means that it is building an unassailable position in the marketplace. Very smart and very stylish.

AnOther Man
And this magazine really is about clothes. AnOther Man has the best menswear photoshoots of any men’s style mag. They get a wider range of clothes, better photographers, a better understanding of what they are displaying. Their interviews with menswear designers are insightful and perceptive. They have a rare ability to show modern and classic designers in combination without making one look staid and the other look wacky. They check all the menswear boxes, interviews with actors, articles on art and movies, but buy this one for the clothes. A great mag and a visual treat which, right now, is at the top of its game.

So, if the credit crunch continues to bite, these are the magazines I will continue to buy. As men of style, which magazines will you continue to support?

There can be no better way to celebrate Burns Night than to go to a Scotch Malt Whisky tasting.

Here are two taking place this coming Sunday 25th January and Monday, 26th January:

The first is held by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society at their clubroom in Greville Street, London.  The tasting takes place at the civilised time of 14.00 till 17.00 on Sunday 25th.  Non-members are welcome.  Tckets are available here

The second is run by those walking encyclopaedias of malt whiskey, the chaps at the Whisky Exchange. We wrote about them here, and are still in awe of their knowledge and enthusiasm. The event takes place at Vinoplis at London Bridge, London and starts at 19.00. You can book tickets on  020 7940 8300  or through the website here

Like many Englishmen of Scottish descent, I will be celebrating Burns Night with a good Scotch malt whisky. Here is a short guide to both Burns Night and 10 malt whiskies that I favour. At the end of the post I have added 5 specialist shops where you can buy good Scotch whisky. If you cannot get to these stores, have no fear, they have excellent web sales services, as detailed below.

Burns Night
Burns Night is a celebration of Robert Burns, Scotland’s national poet, and takes place on the 25th January. Born in 1759 and died in 1796, Burns was the poet of the Scottish countryside and its people and no man did more to create the romantic vision of Scotland that we have today. Rabbie Burns had a hard and difficult life. He was of a hard-working but poor family and hunger and sickness oppressed him all of his life. I can only admire a man who endured all that and still managed to produce poetry, journals and commentaries. He was also a man who really enjoyed bedding the ladies, as you will find out if you read any of his biographies. For those of us who do not know his work well he wrote “Auld Lang Syne” with which we sing in the New Year. We remember him for his poetry and the Scots are rightly proud of him.

Burns Night Suppers
A Burns Night supper is a convivial, yet ceremonial gathering of friends. There are several stages in the evening, as follows:

In Scotland the guests are often piped into the room or hall by a live piper. However at most suppers the guests are piped in to recorded traditional Scotch music.

The host or chairman makes a short speech of welcome and toasts Robert Burns (Scotch whisky, of course).

The party then recite the “Selkirk Grace”, a short grace before dinner, which Burns is reputed to have written. The text is below:

Some hae meat and canna eat,
And some wad eat that want it;
But we hae meat, and we can eat,
Sae let the Lord be thankit.

The traditional Haggis is then piped to the table and Burn’s poem”To a Haggis” is recited, to a whisky toast.

Supper should then commence and further entertainment can added as the meal proceeds. Typically this is recitations of Burns poems, playing traditional Scottish songs and of course more toasts, which will of course consume more whisky.

Traditionally, a Burns Supper ends with a rendition of “Auld Lang Syne”

Scotch Malt Whisky
Malt Whisky is one of a man’s great joys. One of the marks of a stylish man is that he knows enough about malt whisky to get by in company. The varieties of taste, the interesting and varied histories and the individual character of each whisky make this a fit subject of interest for a worldly man.

Think about it. Somewhere in Scotland, a real craftsman painstakingly distilled a malt whisky into a cask, loved and cared it for a year and at the end of had produced a whisky that is unique,…and probably beautiful. And you are going to buy it for a few pounds (or dollars). Drinking malt is a fine luxury experience and a cheap one at that. It is easy to start, find one you like and go from there.

Drinking malt whisky
When it comes to drinking malt whisky I am a classicist. I like my malt in a whisky tumbler with just a drop of water. And I mean a drop, just enough to release the aromatics and oils of the malt, to bring out the flavour. I cradle the tumbler of whisky in my hand until it is at body warmth and the whisky is warmed. Perfection.

The only other thing you need is a good glass. Here is my favourite whisky tumbler, from my favourite glassmaker, Dartington.

The glass is here. If you are a romantic man, buy two. Your best girl will be bowled over by the loving symbolism of it, trust me.

Ten Malts and where to buy them
Here are ten malts I like. They are a good range, from the light to the heavy, in no particular order. I have not added the year of distillation because this is a short post, but my usual experience with malts is the older the better. The gentlemen at the stores listed below will advise you on years and “expressions” as particular distillations are called.

Isle of Jura
One of my favourites and a favourite of guests at my house. By the standards of Islay whiskies, of which this is one, Jura is very lightly peated. Still there is enough smoky peat flavour to give Jura a slightly salt-sweet flavour. A good malt for beginners because even the young distillations are quite smooth, with a slightly malty, caramel flavour. It is light and lingers in the mouth without being overpowering.

Blair Athol
A fruity, malt, with a dry aromatic finish with just a hint of the sherry casks it was matured in. Though that may sound a little light, it isn’t and Blair Athol has a strong finish. Blair Athol was the malt of choice of my father, it was his “sociable” malt that he drank with other men. If was drinking in family, he would drink Ardbeg, which is a very different proposition (see Ardbeg below). Blair Athol is beloved by the Japanese, though I do not know why this malt in particular. However it does account for why there is not a lot of this whisky available and its price is a little higher as a result. A “fine” malt whisky, which you could offer as an after-dinner drink to non-whisky drinkers.

Glen Ord
A bit of an acquired taste, Glen Ord is a malty, heathery, minty whisky with a lot of bite. It attacks on the tongue and is a complex strong whisky and very full-bodied. The aftertaste alone lets you know you have a real whisky on your hands. But stick with it and it has some very fine flavours in it. Not a whisky for everyday but for special occasions. For me, there are times when I want to be alone in my own company. Those are the times I drink Glen Ord and I really enjoy it.

Laphroaig
I do not know what it is about Laphroaig but it inspires the most fanatical loyalty. Men swear by it. In an earlier stage of my life I would drink no other malt and was forever singing its virtues. However I am recovered now…as long as I am not offered any.

Soft and fruity mixed in with the salt taste of the sea, Laphroaig charms the tongue and is a sweet and peaty taste. It has a loose, slightly oily texture and has a slight salty, peaty aftertaste. Though that may not sound attractive, combined with its refined and complex flavours it is a wonderful taste. I think it bypasses the thinking brain and goes from taste-buds direct to pleasure centres. Try it and, after a few, you are likely to find it addictive.

Glenmorangie
Glenmorangie is the best-selling malt in the world, so I do not have too much to add. I will say that it’s light, heathery taste makes it a good drinking whisky. I like it as a malt for pubs and bars and a very good one.

Oban
Bring on the big guns. Oban is heavily perfumed, smelling of honey, caramel and malt. It is sweet, big in the mouth and very distinctive. Once you have tried Oban you will remember it. In my experience this is a good whisky to give to men as an after-dinner drink. It looks like a malt whisky should and has a dark brown colour that goes perfectly with its dense, firm taste.

Bowmore
Well, if Laphroaig is addictive, Bowmore is more-ish, in that “just one more…” way. Sweet, malty and soft, smelling slightly of sugar and spirits, it is incredibly easy to drink. It has a full taste in the mouth and a smoky aftertaste. A bottle of Bowmore does not last any time at all in the Van Rijn household, it is one of our all-time favourites. If you are going to give it to friends, make sure you have enough for refills.

Ardbeg
Whisky monster! The perfume of Ardbeg hits you as soon as you pop the cork. A sweet peaty smell that will permeate the air. This is an immensely peaty whisky with a tang of leather, a slight taste of baked bread and an underlying sweetness. The taste of it will fill your mouth up. I am really not sure how to characterize this whisky but somehow it has become a favourite of mine. A favourite in the Van Rijn family and a big drink for those times when you want or need one.

Macallan
Macallan has been called the writer’s malt, so it is appropriate that I mention it here. The English writer Kingsley Amis, used to say that he kept a bottle by his typewriter and took a nip for inspiration at regular intervals. However Mr Amis was a great storyteller, so this may simply be apt invention. For a long time Macallan was also considered the connoisseur’s malt, so it was (purportedly) the drink of the man of style. Writers looking for a short-hand indicator of style would have their character drink Macallan.

Macallan is a strong, rich silky mouthful with great tastes of toffee, sherry, brown sugar. It is full-bodied and lingers in the mouth for a long time. I always think of Macallan as the taste of celebration and feel very honoured when I am served it by friends.

Springbank
Tastes fruity, fresh and dry, with the scent of plants and a fiery whisky taste that is mellower in older vintages. Wonderful light, complex, fresh taste. A reviver, morale booster, glad-to-be-alive drink. For launching ventures, spiting in the eye of your enemy, embarking on passionate love affairs. True style in a glass. Currently my favourite whisky.

A Scotch malt whisky book
David Stirk’s book is a well-illustrated guide to Scotch malt whisky. He explains the process, varieties of whisky and how they differ. He lists all the whiskys. Great for the novice, maybe a little too simple for anyone else. A good first reference and I am indebted to him for his list and guide to the actual distilleries.

Get it in the UK here and the US here   

Where to buy Malt Whisky in London
In recent years, the number of specialist stores selling Scotch malt whisky in London has increased. More power to their elbow, I say. Here are five I like.

 The Whisky Exchange
The Whisky Exchange is in Vinopolis, the wine museum, near London Bridge, in London. I had never been there until recently and was wholly unprepared for what a great experience it was going to be.

The Whisky Exchange must have the largest floor space of any whisky store in London. They have yard upon yard of shelves of malt whisky. There is a “sweet spot” within the store on which it is possible to stand and your entire field of vision is filled with malt whisky!

Here is the photo to prove it.

(click to enlarge the image)

While I was gazing at whisky heaven, I was approached by Matt Swinfen, one of the staff at Whisky Exchange to see if I needed any help. When I said no he said: “Enjoy the wallpaper….” Superb line! Had to quote him.

This is the place to go if you want to explore Scotch malt whisky. The front of house “team” (Matt Swinfen and Duncan Ross) are walking encyclopaedias of malt, being both impressive and very helpful. Their motto is “we try to give the type of service you got thirty years ago”. For my America readers, one of the things they do well is ship malts to overseas clients, a service in which they have lots of experience. For my city readers, this is the perfect antidote to the depressed markets. From your patch, the Whisky Exchange is five minutes from you, across London Bridge. Go see.

The Whisky Exchange does so many things exceptionally well, see their website for the list of services.

Details:

The Whisky Exchange

1 Bank End, London Bridge, London SE1 9BU

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7403 8688   

www.thewhiskyexchange.com

Milroys of Soho
Milroys is a London institution and is where I learnt about malt whisky. I owe these gentlemen a huge debt of gratitude for their knowledge, quiet service and sheer style. Over the years their advice has been vital to me, it was Milroy’s who first advised me to buy Blair Athol for my father, just one of their many pieces of wise counsel. My wife buys gifts for me from them and likes their service and their suggestions a great deal.

(Click image to enlarge)

I love this shop, for me it is part and parcel of having style. Every man should visit Milroy’s once, because to do so gives you an immediate understanding of connoisseurship and English style. If you are visiting England then Milroys is worth a visit, it is part of the true English experience.

Like the Whisky Exchange, Millroys have a lot of experience in shipping to other countries. But what makes Milroys so wonderful is the service. If you are a novice at malt whisky, need advice, then you could not be in safer hands. If you are at all knowledgeable then you probably go to Milroys for the quiet pleasure of doing so.

The manager at Milroys is Phillip Kirk and he is both hospitable and a wizard of whisky. Every “wee dram” that he has given me to sample has proven to be from magnificent whiskies.

Milroys website also sells their malts. It excels partly because of their expert tasting notes. Have a look see.

Details:

Milroys of Soho

3 Greek Street, London, W1D 4NX

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7437 2385   

www.milroys.co.uk

The Vintage House
Another London tradition and one of the finest malt whisky collections in London. Vintage House have an extensive collection of malts bottled by individual bottlers. Independents bottle single casks of years of their choosing. This means that they produce some very individual malts which are rare and have a very individual taste.

(click image to enlarge)

Vintage House have small room where, behind glass, there are hundreds of malt whiskies. It is a browsers delight. The staff at Vintage house provide a knowledgeable, breezily cheerful service and can tell you all you want to know about malt. They have over 1,400 malts in stock, so you are sure to find one you want.

Details:

The Vintage House

42 Old Compto Street, Soho, London W1D 4LR

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7437 2592   

www.sohowhisky.com

Royal Mile Whiskies
Royal Mile are an Edinburgh company, with a shop in London. They won Whisky Retailer of the Year 2003, 2004 and 2006, and have established quite a track record. They offer smart, thoughtful service and whenever I am in the store I see them patiently advising newcomers to malt whisky.

(click image to enlarge)

They stock a wide range of malts and also stock some of the best books about malts. Their tastings are very good, often being cleverly themed. Their most recent tasting was of whiskies from distilleries that have closed, with the opportunity to buy these now rare whiskies.

Details:

Royal Mile Whiskies

3 Bloomsbury Street, London WC1B 3QE

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7436 4763   

www.royalmilewhiskies.com

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society
If you enjoy Scotch malt whisky, then this is the club for you. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is both a group of like-minded enthusiasts and an independent bottler of malt whisky. They bottle and sell single-cask single-malt whiskies from over a 120 distilleries at remarkably competitive prices. They have club-houses in Edinburgh and London (the London clubhouse is pictured) where members can buy a dram of any of the society’s whiskies or indeed buy a bottle. They have restaurant, which sells wine to accompany dinner, as well as malt.

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Bar, London (click to enlarge)

Membership is £100.00 per year, which gets you a presentation case of malts, membership in London and Edinburgh, the right to buy their exclusive whiskies, the socity’s magazine and lots more. This is a great price and to be honest, I think they are giving it away.

Details:

The Scotch Malt Whiskey Society

19 Greville Street, off Bleeding Heart Yard, London EC1N 8SQ

Tel:    +44 (0)20 7831 4447   

www.smws.co.uk

Drinking Whisky
I like drinking whisky late at night. Music on, low, lights likewise. Something sophisticated, melodic and soulful playing quietly. Here are three of my choices:

  Frank Sinatra: The wee small hours of the morning
From the Capitol years, when Frank Sinatra did some of his best work. Sad songs elegantly sung.

Get it in the UK here and in the US here

  Antonio Carlos Jobim: Stone Flower
Immaculate romantic Bossa Nova. Slow, yearning, manly and sexy songs from the master at his peak.

Get it in the UK here and in the US here

  Michael Brecker: Nearness of you: The Ballad Book
Quietly atmospheric, intense and sensuous jazz. Never loud, always skirting the base rhythm, Micheal Brecker’s masterful sax draws you into his mood.

Get it in the UK here and in the US here

Drinking Scotch malt whisky
There is one other thing I know about malt whisky. Women who drink it are sexy. I drink malt with my wife, who has developed a taste for malt under my tutelage. We drink together late at night, in the surroundings I described above, music playing, lights low. We drink after dinner parties, returning from engagements, celebrating the end of a long day.

It is one of the times that we share together and the whisky makes it special. We have our own malt classes. Hers is cut Edinburgh crystal, which sparkles with a golden glow, as the whisky catches the candlelight. It is beautiful, as she is. Mine is a big, chunky heavy modern tumbler, a man’s glass. All very appropriate.

I look at her, long legs, long dark hair, green eyes, that slightly lopsided suggestion of a smile. She sits there, Ferretti frock, killer heels, drinking whisky, looking at me over the top of the glass, with those emerald eyes. She is very beautiful and these are some of the times I truly feel blessed.

Enjoy Burns Night.

John.

Yesterday was Cary Grant’s birthday. He has been gone a few years now (he died in 1986) but we always celebrate it here at What Makes A Man because for us he defines manly style. Last year we wrote about his movies and his personal style. That article is here. This article is a day late, but we treasure his memory.

This year I am going to write about what I learnt from Cary Grant. I have learnt many lessons from Mr Grant and here are ten of them. To help readers who enjoy his sense of style I have also added a guideline on the clothes he wore so well.

No1 Clothes are the raw material of self creation
As an adolescent Cary Grant was poor and badly educated. However he had a passionate desire to make something of his life and realised that he could start to inhabit the world he wanted to be part of by wearing the clothes of the lifestyle he aspired to. In doing that he was right on the money.

Implicit in choosing clothes well is the understanding that you create yourself. I learnt from Mr Grant that I need to know who I was going to create, when I dressed. We all take in lots of information, every second of the day. In one minute a person takes in over 3,000 pieces of information a second, most of it visual. However the brain can only process 800 pieces of information a second. So we all end up absorbing a lot of information that we react to at an instinctual level. When you meet another person they make an assessment of you in the first eight seconds. Before you open your mouth. Studies show that it takes a huge amount of effort to change that first impression. Clothes help you make the impression you want.

From clothes came other things. To live the life I wanted I needed to understand wine, good manners, how to write, amongst a host of other things. I chose clothes carefully and saw the effect my clothes had on people. That gave me the confidence to grow other areas of life.

Clothes will always be important, you can use that.

No 2 The importance is in the details
Cary Grant once said “It takes 500 small details to add up to a favourable impression”. He was famous for knowing his job in intimate detail. Stories abound of him supporting his co-actors. He could do this because he had mastered his own part and had competence to spare. When I dress I think about the event and decide what is appropriate. If I am meeting someone for the first time I research them. I want to get to know them and it is easier to do that if you have some clues. All the details add up to success.

No3 Confidence is sexy
Clothes are not sexy, a confident man in good clothes is sexy. Cary Grant carried himself well, was comfortable in his own skin. Good clothes help. When I had my first Kilgour of Savile Row suit made I was used to wearing Italian suits and the Kigour felt a lot stiffer. However after I wore it the first time it felt like a second skin. Now I always wear it when I want that extra bit of assurance.

However it is not just clothes, a man needs to be able to present himself confidently when meeting people. Cary Grant worked at being able to express himself gracefully but equally importantly he also worked at actively listening. He was gracious and looked for good in people. He genuinely liked people and was interested in their lives.  He also actively managed himself, always presenting himself with confidence.  He knew that people had an expectation of him, he lived up to it.

It took me the longest time to learn to listen rather than talk, but I think I am getting it.

And the clincher is women. All my female friends who are dating say the same thing, a man who is sure of himself is sexy.

No 4 Know your style
What style suits you? Do you look good in classic English suits? Romantic Italian suits? Are you a natural man, look good in chunky cable-stitch sweater and corduroys? Cary Grant worked this out long before style and image consultants existed.

Image consultants use a number of style “types” to determine what clothes suit a man. A “classic” type man looks good in classic English-cut suits. A “romantic” type man looks good in those curved softer shoulder Italian suits. Cary Grant was mostly a classic type, which explains why he looked so good in English-cut suits.

You can have this, find a style and image consultant, get them to assess your body shape, style type and get them to tell you what clothes are good for you. It will be one of the cheapest investments you ever make.  Here is one I recommend, they do very good work.

Otherwise do as Cary Grant did, experiment, shop for clothes carefully, look for what suits you. If you are in doubt, take with you someone whose judgement you trust, until the time comes when you trust your own.

No 5 Stay Fit
No amount of good clothing will disguise the fact if you are overweight. The brutal truth is that you cannot look good with a fat belly. It also tells other people a lot about you, primarily that you do not look after yourself. Are fat men good in bed? No. Do women know this? Yes.

Watch Grant in “It takes a Thief”, his Hitchcock caper movie. He swims onto the beach at Cannes and the camera catches his body in a mid-distance shot. He was fifty at the time and superbly fit. He worked at it, but not obsessively.

Some of the other benefits of staying fit is that you look younger and you have that extra vitality which makes you quicker, sharper and more agreeable to be with.

No 6 You are entitled to aspire, to re-invent yourself
This concept will not come as a surprise for American readers of What Makes A Man. Cary Grant started dirt-poor and ignorant. Rather than accept it, he began a life-long journey of self-improvement. It was not easy, he talked about being neither Archie Leach (the poor Bristolian boy) or Cary Grant and being suspicious of both. However he never gave up and he became the person he wanted. We can all leave our pasts behind, it is not easy and there are times when we slip back, but it can be done, it just takes hard work. Cary Grant is an inspiration to all men.

No 7 Classy is good manners and a pleasant personality
Actually what Cary Grant said was that a man can go a long way with good manners and a pleasant personality. I also find that good manners and a willingness to smile and enjoy another’s company really helps you get along in life.

I was on nodding acquaintance with a very stylish salesman who worked in a menswear store in Bond Street. I cannot mention his name and if you read on you will see why. I was a customer but not in the same league as some of his other customers, who were very wealthy indeed. Whenever I was near the store I would pop in to chat with him. He had a fantastic eye for colour and could put together superb combinations of clothes, in a way that most men cannot. I often complimented him on his style sense. It seems to me that a key part of good manners is to appreciate people for their skills, rather than maintain a “cool” distance.

I went to the store during a sale and he served me. I had already chosen one suit when I realised that the suit he was wearing would suit me perfectly. I told him this and he said “yes, it would”. The suit was not in the sale, in fact it was not even on the racks. I was disappointed; the suit was perfect for me.

I mentioned it again while the first suit was being marked for alterations. He looked at me and said, “wait here and have a cup of coffee”. Twenty minutes later he came back with a suit over his arm. He simply said “I found the suit in your size and it is the only one in the sale”. I of course bought it and it was a great suit, made me look great. I did not seek to take advantage of our cordial relationship but I did benefit from it. Manners always help.

No 8. Strive with all your might for what you want.
Cary Grant met his fifth wife, Barbara Harris, when he was 72. She was 26. When they first met, she was reluctant to spend time with Grant, there was clearly a gulf between them both of age and lifestyle. However Cary Grant courted her ardently. Like so many other achievements in his life he put every effort into wooing her. It took time, but in the end she could not resist him. She fell in love with him, they married, and altogether they had ten years of happiness together. Some people never have ten years of happiness. They did because he strove to win her, against all conventional wisdom.

No 9 Enjoy what you do.
Lots of actors complain about what they do, the public are too invasive, they do not get to make the movies they want, their personal lives suffer from the constant travelling, etc. Cary Grant loved what he did, there are countless tales of him turning up on set on his day off, of volunteering to help co-stars learn their lines, of him building friendships with crew, writers and directors.

You know how it is when you do not love what you do, the long days, the glacial clock that never seems to move. When you love what you do you are although more alive, more connected and happy.

N0 10 Have a lively curiousity
Cary Grant enjoyed life. For the whole of his life he learnt. He kept clippings files of information about subjects he wanted to learn about. He cultivated new acquaintances outside of his field, who served as his experts on all sorts of subjects. Like many men,in later life, he wanted answers to the big questions, why are we here? Where do we go? He explored psychotherapy, mind-expanding drugs and Taoism. Curiousity about the world keeps you alive, gives you new worlds to explore when the ones you know are stale and unrewarding.

Thank you, Mr Grant

For me Cary Gant was the very model of a man. Masculine, stylish, intelligent, personable and kind. He gave us a way of being that many of us emulate, consciously or unconsciously. I say he is best remembered not as an actor but as a real man, who did much good in the world. So this year, as every year, thank you for everything Mr Grant.

Cary Grant style
Below are some brief notes on the clothing brands that Cary Gant used to wear. Each note has a link to that companies’ website. It is a further tribute to Grant that, with his timeless sense of style, most of the companies he bought from are still trading today.

Kilgour
One of Savile Row’s best tailors, Kilgour make a classic English suit, padded shoulders, moderately drawn in waist. However there is a slight Italianate curve in a Kilgour suit, making their cut fractionally softer than most other Savile Row tailors. Once you have had one of their bespoke suits make for you, you will not want anything else.

Turnbull and Asser
Jermyn Street shirtmaker whose ready-to-wear and made-to-measure shirts are amongst the best in the world. Their cottons are of excellent quality and the finishing (stitching) of their shirts is beautiful.

Anderson and Sheppard
One of the oldest Savile Row tailors with a timeless classic style. The Anderson and Sheppard suit has a wider shoulder, a soft drape to the cut and a long narrow and very flattering silhouette.

Hawes and Curtis
These English shirtmakers have changed a lot since Grant’s day and now specialise in serviceable ready-to-wear shirts.

N. Peal
Sell the finest cashmere in England. They operate on a level above other knitwear makers with inventive designs and colours, all exclusively designed for them in sumptuous top-quality cashmere.

Cordings
The English gentlemen’s country outfitter par excellence. Masters of corduroy, tweed and canvas, their clothes are classic, stylish and hardwearing. Like many other men of good taste, Gary Grant bought their distinctive raincoats.

Brooks Brothers
The American classic. Brooks Brothers have a magnificent range of off-the-peg classic suits. Their suit cut is slightly more narrow in the shoulders than an English suit and complements the taller man (Cary Grant was 6ft 2in.). Unbeatable value and deep-in-the-bone style.

Aquascutum
Masters of the slim, rakish English-cut suit. Just now returning to the glorious style of their hey-day, when Cary Grant was a customer, under the inspired leadership of Kim Winser. Their ready-to-wear suits are imaginative and modern and they have a very classy Bespoke service.  Understated British style.

Ok, so it is freezing (officially) here in England, the economy is in the doldrums and everyone is concerned with how their year is going to work out. Apprehensive and watchful would be the best description.

So here is one of What Makes A Man’s solutions. Bossa Nova. I cannot get to South America right now but I sure can evoke Rio with some classic Bossa Nova.

Bossa Nova from Brazil, just saying it evokes so many feelings and images for me.

As a musical form it evolved out of Samba, the dance music of African-Brazilians. Bossa Nova kept the warm rhythms of Samba but took out the heavy percussion that characterised traditional Samba and gave guitar and vocals the leading roles.

The original Bossa Nova sound was centred around the classical guitar and in most Bossa Nova, the guitar always plays the rhythm, the foundation of the tune. Bossa Nova kept the Samba’s sexy beat 3-2 beat but lightened it and by adding piano, created a more sophisticated musical form that was custom-built for cool, elegant vocals. In one sense Bossa Nova stripped out much of the Samba rhythm, then overlaid what was left with a smooth instrumental sound that could carry a more sophisticated song. The Bossa Nova sound was (and is) lush, romantic, sexy and cool.

The Bossa Nova Movement

The Bossa Nova “movement” was born in 1958 and only lasted six years, but the musical form has expanded, mutated and grown since that time. The “new” Bossa Nova of recent years has elements of pop and dance in it, which I really like. It can do this because the rhythmic foundation lends itself to integration with other popular music forms.  Really, Bossa Nova is cool, in the same way that Jazz is cool. It is a complex musical form with fluid, interwoven instrumentals. It gives the artist room to interpret the song in original ways. Part of its longetivity is that it always sounds fresh. EuroTechno and Chill-out sounds have drawn heavily on Bossa Nova, often layering their orchestration straight onto a Bossa Nova beat.

I like Bossa Nova. I like that it is happy music (for the most part). I like the romantic sound of the strings and the funky enveloping sound. I can dance to it. For me Bossa Nova evokes Latin America, sunlight, dancing and sexy women.

I like the fact that the men who sing it sound like they have lived some. Like me, they have some miles on them and, when they sing of lost love, I believe them. Their voices are knowing, romantic and masculine, cosmopolitan and worldly.

For Brazilians to have “Bossa” when doing something, is to do it with masculine grace and style. And as a man, we can ask for no more. Bossa Nova suits the man of style and this is why you are reading this, no?

Music and Style

For a man of style Bossa Nova is useful. Here are some ways in which you can use it:

Summer Parties
You know that moment, it is early evening, the party is just getting going. People are drinking, the garden/patio/clubhouse is filling up, but no-one is quite ready to dance. Now is the time for Bossa Nova, it gets everyone in the mood.

Single Seductions
Rock is too noisy, Jazz too damn complicated, Soul too meaningful. You want music while you kiss your favourite girl, champagne in hand. Bossa Nova is romantic, girls love it, it puts them in the mood, makes them feel that the two of you could live out a romantic fantasy…..

Dancing
Bossa nova has such a reliable rhythm, anyone can dance to it. Once you catch the beat you are ok and any man can look half-way decent, dancing to Bossa Nova.

Chill-out
Summer evening, sun going down, drink in hand? Bossa Nova, especially the classics.

 Background Music
I am listening to Antonio Carlos Jobim while I write this. I love this job.

So here are 12 of my favourite Bossa Nova albums, from the classics through to an album released last year. This is a snapshot of the music that is complementing my life at the moment. It is not a definitive Bossa Nova listing (way too long for a post), it does not even include all of my favourite artists. It is just those albums that lift my ears and my heart right now.

Antonio Carlos Jobim: Stone Flower
Antonio “Tom” Jobim was one of the originators of Bossa Nova and by all accounts a man who lived for music, though he had big appetites for both drink and women. Anything by Antonio Jobim is good but Stone Flower is magnificent. Made in 1970, his voice and style had matured, but he was still a young man, at the peak of his powers. Standouts on this album are his version of “Brazil” where the deep, melodic vocals simply outclass anyone else who has sung this song. However the best thing on the album is the title track. Clever guitar harmonies and a colourful string arrangement meet a hard bass line and becomes a moving and complex love song.

 Get it in England here and in the US here

Sabrina Malheiros: New Morning

This is “New” Bossa, stripped down and re-sung for the modern era.  The sound is a little less lush, the percussion is sharper, but the guitar still leads and the piano still lends a romantic tone.  This album has pin-sharp production and Sabrina’s jazz-inflected vocals sing out in total control over the orchestration.  This album has a host of pop and rock influences and the songs will bring a smile to your face and a sway to your hips.  This is hi-energy Bossa and so good.  There is also a Bossa Nova cover of Carole King’s “Its too late” and it is very fine. 

 Get it in England here and in the US here        

Caetano Veloso:  The definitive collection

In the seventies Caetano Veloso took the core of Bossa Nova and really worked it, changing the form to see what it would do.  Along the way that has meant marrying Bossa rhythms to rock and pop, to peeling Bossa back to it’s Samba origins and several other adventures.  He is often less the romantic Bossa singer than the funky Samba singer.  However you can still hear Bossa there, because first and last Veloso’s instrument has always been the classical acoustic guitar.  And you know, some of these songs are pure Bossa, love songs, brass sections, strings, girl choruses and a true lightness of heart.  These are songs to make your day feel good. 

  Get it in England here 

The “Definitive Collection” album is not available in the US.  For our US readers can I suggest “The best of Caetano Veloso” here 

Charlie Byrd/Stan Getz: Jazz Samba
Charlie Byrd, like other Jazz guitarists, saw the affinities between Jazz and Bossa Nova. He and Stan Getz recorded Jazz Samba in 1962 and it became the definitive Bossa Nova album for the United States and Europe. Byrd and Getz treated Bossa Nova with the respect it deserved and result is tight, lyrical and captivating. It still sounds fresh today with its cultured interpretations of Desafinado and One-Note Samba.

 Get it in England here and in the US here    

Luciana De Souza: Duos, New Bossa Nova
This woman has the richest deepest sexiest voice. She is the daughter of Walter Santos, himself a Bossa Nova composer, has a classically trained voice and leans to the jazz side of Bossa Nova. On Duos she covers songs by Antonio Carlos Jobim and Caetano Veloso, so it is a classic voice singing classic songs. Her voice is by turns passionate, sad, exhilarating and tender. These are songs of love and loss, for late nights and cold days.

The New Bossa Nova has covers and duets of and with American artists like Joni Mitchell, James Taylor, Leonard Cohen. Re-interpeted as Bossa Nova tunes, her wonderful strong voice breathes electric life into older songs like the Beach Boys “God Only Knows” and Michael MacDonald’s “I can let go now”. Her ability to hold a note is marvellous and she makes rich, glorious music.

 Get them in England here  and here

 Get them in the US here and here

Marcos Valle: Carioca Soul
A teenager during Bossa’s early years, Marcos Valle became one of the music’s most enduring stars, especially during the eighties and ninties, mixing pop and soul influences into the classic 3-2 beat. Still around after a long and varied career, Valle has tried all sorts of variations on the Jazz Samba. For me he is the most Brazilian, a master of the Samba beat, but also the most showbiz, with lush strings and an almost rock piano. Putting together a Marcos Valle collection is a labour of love but at the moment I am hooked on Carioca Soul because it includes “Nova Bossa Nova” with its urgent rhythm and soulful vocals. It is cool and modern simultaneously and just makes you want to dance.

 Get it in England here  or in the US here

Pure Bossa Nova:  The classic songs

This one is in here because, well I really like it, it includes some of great songs. It includes songs by people we have not even mentioned like Joao Donato, Sergio Mendes and Gal Costa.  It spans a really fruitful period in the music’s history with songs from the early seventies through the eighties and is full of zippy funky songs.  These are tune stuffed with light and breezy brass orchestrations and clever piano.  Real dance floor music.  It is also here because though it is not a particularly well-known album, it is the one I would recommend to anyone looking for a starter Bossa Nova album.  Infectiously happy, full of classic crowd-pleasers, it is an easy set of songs to get into.    

  Get it in England here and in the US here

Marisa Monte:  Memories, chronicles and declarations of love.

Marisa Monte is a popular singer in Brazil, where she is classified as a MPB (Musica Popular Brasileira) singer.  MPB is one of Bossa Nova’s successors, and describes a musical tradition that draws on Samba and Bossa Nova, adding elements of jazz, pop and South American folk.  “Memories, Chronicles” , is the “new” Bossa Nova of recent years, none more so than the stunning opener “Amor I love you” which is classical Bossa guitar with some of the most heartfelt vocals I have ever heard.  The album spans Choro (pre-Samba bahia folk music) Samba, Bossa Nova.  Her electric Samba “Nao Va Embora” is urgent and sexy and goes straight to your dancing feet. 

This is not music for purists but it is really joyful and soulful.  Also I really need to declare an interest here.  This woman is truly beautiful to look at.   She is not pretty but has a dark beauty that somehow manages to be both elegant and sexy.  Her eyes are liquid pools of deep, dark brown, she has a wide sensual mouth and thick black hair.  Think of the archetypal Brazilian woman, dark, beautiful, sexy and full of life.  This is her. 

 Get it in England here or in the US here

Stan Getz: Bossa Nova
Another classic. Bossa Nova was made for Getz and for a while he personified the sound in America. Getz’ sax is variously languorous, spiky and plaintive as it weaves in and out of the complex arrangements of these Bossa classics.

This album features a wonderfully romantic and classy Corcovado (you will know it for its opening line “Quiet nights for quiet stars”). The vocalist is Astrid Gilberto and this one of her best. Whenever you play it, it takes you to a starlit night, love and romance.

There are so many classics on this album, a sparky but sexy version of So Danco Samba, a Desafinado which is late-night seduction. Play this when you are having a romantic evening at home, wine and candles, lights down low.

 Get in England here or in the US here

CeU: CeU
Ceu is new. She is the best-selling Brazilian pop music phenomenon of 2007. Huge in South America, she is busy taking over Europe as we speak.  Coming from a Samba, Choro, Bossa Nova tradition, her music has elements of everything from rock, jazz, soul and early Brazilian folksong. Her composition is inspired, tight, modern and intricate. She has a strong, sexy expressive voice that dominates her upbeat songs. Samba rhythms and a fat bass sound dominate much of this album.

There is some great songs here, in the tracks Bobagem, Samba Na Sola and others. The album does what the New Bossa Nova promises, update Bossa Nova for today.

 Get it in England here or in the US here

Vinicius De Moraes: Favourites
Well, along with Antonio Carlos Jobim, he created Bossa Nova and at the moment he is the perfect antidote for winter blues.  Here are the lush orchestrations, trumpets and tombones, girl choruses, the 3-2 beat, everything that we expect. Songs such as “Deve Ser Amor” have it all, and more. However Moraes also wrote many of the classic guitar Bossas, romantic, cool, poetic. They are here too on this comprehensive compilation. This is definitive Bossa Nova.

 Get it in England here or in the US here

Milton Nascimento and the Jobim trio: Novas Bossas

I have always liked Milton Nascimento for his ability to interpret lyrics and the sheer energy he puts into a song.  His amazing tonal range is shown at its best on this album, where he interprets classics from Jobim and De Moraes.  The sad songs were never more poignant than here, the happy songs never more full of life.  This album was recorded last year with Jobim’s trio. It has beautiful production values and it really shows.  There are some classic interpretations here, especially De Moraes “Medo de Amar” and Jobim’s “Caminhos Cruzados”.

If I was going to buy just one Bossa Nova album I would buy this one.  It is passionate, modern and yet incredibly respectful of the songs. 

 Get it in England here and in the US here

Here ends the tour

Looking at this post, I can see that some of the music here detours a little into Samba, Jazz and Pop.  But that is the nature of Bossa Nova, its a very flexible and accomodating sound.  For me it is the sound of having fun and of course I can….Blame it on the Bossa Nova.

I am sure that many readers have their own Bossa favourities.  Send me a comment and I will be happy to post your lists.  I am always interested new recommendations for all types of Latin American music.

Thanks and an appreciation 

Like everyone I find my music through all sorts of sources.  But I found Luciana Souza and Marisa Monte through the John Rain thrillers by Barry Eisler.  John Rain, Eisler’s American-Japanese assassin is not only a martial artist who loves Jazz and Malt Whisky, but is also a man having a love affair with all things Brazilian.  Luciana Souza and Marisa Monte are both recommended, directly and indirectly, in the John Rain novels.  So my thanks to Barry Eisler for introducing me to two wonderful singers.  If you have not read Barry Eisler’s novels I recommend you do so.  He writes beautiful and is a captivating storyteller.  He has a very elegant website and the link to it is here. 

Gran Torino is out on release soon and I am looking forward to it. I have been an Eastwood fan for as long as I have been an adult. By all accounts Gran Torino is a great movie and has been doing great box-office in America.

Over at Esquire, they have interviewed Clint Eastwood about life, the movies and everything, it is a short but thought-provoking interview. It reminds me of Nelson Riddle, the famous musical arranger, being interviewed about working with Frank Sinatra. Riddle was asked how one worked with a genius like Sinatra. Riddle’s answer was that he “set up the arrangment and got out of the way”. This is the approach that Cal Fussman takes with Clint Eastwood, asking the question and just letting the good man talk.

The article is here

My eye was caught by this small but lovingly produced site, run by John W DeFeo. John restores photographs and slides of 1950s nudes. These nudes are modest by today’s standards, but still sexy and quite charming. What is equally as interesting is John’s obvious commitment to the restoration process, as he explains how he restores the images. A small but beautiful site, there is almost a Japanese craft sensibility about it.

The link is here but remember that, charming as this site is, it is still not safe for work.

Rites of passage and the importance of ritual

Terry Cooper

In 1999 I organised a rite of passage to celebrate a particular moment in my son Jodie’s life. This was the beginning of his life as a man, he was 18. Nine years have passed since this experience and Jodie is now 27. I welcome being asked to write about it now as it gives me an opportunity to reflect on the experience and assess its value.

Having been born in England, which is practically devoid of any sense of celebration, and having grown in a non-religious working class family, I had little experience of rituals which recognise and celebrate significant events in peoples’ lives.

But having many close Jewish friends meant I had, over the years, been included in a number of Bar Mitzvah and Bat Mitzvah ceremonies which are a traditional Jewish religious ritual held for boys and girls when they reach the age of 13 to acknowledge, facilitate and celebrate their transition into adulthood.

I was always touched by these experiences. Preparation for the ceremony requires a lot of effort on the part of the individuals going through the process, and can take a year or longer. Seeing the care and warmth of the people in their community ushering these young people through the ritual, is deeply moving. It is also refreshing to feel the spirit of inter-generational co-operation that is present at these gatherings.

As a psychotherapist I have learned a lot about the value of ritual in people’s lives and especially its application within therapeutic work. Rituals in this context are structured experiences which the therapist and client create together to help the client make and manage transitions. A ritual may be to manage ending a behaviour or phase of life that the person has or is trying to outgrow. It may be to begin a new behaviour which they are trying to form or simply to acknowledge and mark a particular event or experience to give it deeper value. Rituals can be both a way of marking significant experiences and of making experiences significant.

Forming a ritual to support the ending of a particular behaviour is making a boundary or drawing a line. It is saying “I want to do something, (create an action) which affirms to myself that I have made a decision to end and let go of this old behaviour”. There are endless ways of doing this, from writing and drawing exercises to more dramatic statements. For example, you could burn a piece of clothing which you associate with a particularly painful event or you might plant a tree to represent what changes you would like to make within yourself. It could simply be to write a kind and supportive letter to yourself, written through the eyes of a real or imagined friend. There are endless possibilities for structuring experiences to support the change process and expand our sense of self, which is really the purpose of ritual; to grow ourselves.

Rituals can generate new experiences at behavioural, cognitive and feeling levels, replacing old behaviours and their associated feelings with different, more satisfying experiences. Recognising the importance of creating rituals to help us engage in the forming of transitional experiences also heightens our awareness of natural transitions that otherwise might have passed unnoticed.

Rituals can be used when we are on our own or with others. They can be used to form a relationship to ourselves, and many have a social value such as weddings or funerals. These are about being imbedded in a community and involving the community in witnessing important events and transitions. I will talk more about this later.

It is important that the ritual is physical. Physical action (behaviour) changes an intention, idea or dream into something more concrete and through this experience we empower ourselves. Ideas stimulate but do not empower. Empowerment is always connected to an action. The action may be very subtle or dramatic, though often the smaller steps lay better foundations on which to build.

Rite of passage

According to Arnold Van Gennep, a French ethnographer and folklorist (1873-1957), rites of passage have three phases: separation, liminality, and incorporation. In the first phase, people withdraw from the group and begin moving from one place or status to another. In the third phase, they re-enter society, having completed the rite. The liminal phase is the period between states, during which people have left one place or state but have not yet entered or joined the next. There are also micro transitions that are like mini rites of passage that occur in the normal passage of time, more often than not they are part of a consultation process over the years between the parents and child. These are commonly about separation and increased independence. “Can I cross the road”? “Can I have a private space”? “Can I stay out”, “Can I stay at so and so’s house”? Having these managed experiences of separation are essential to support the growing adult within the child. A formal rite of passage is to affirm already existing developmental processes. If this is not worked out through co-operation, it might be through defiance. I’m not a believer that defiance is necessary and it is often an indication that families do not know how to arrive at decisions through other means.

After attending a Bar-Mitzvah or Bat-Mitzvah I would always be thinking about Jodie and the culture we lived in and the fact that the only rites of passage on offer seemed to be peer-led, such as drinking, drugging, staying up late, etc. Going against the adult community seemed to be the norm.

I think it is quite interesting how deep the need for a rite of passage is and that kids will find a way of forming it for themselves even if it isn’t provided by their community. As we know, many kids form their own rituals as well as participating in the rituals of the community. My own opinion is the rituals of peer-led rites of passage are not in competition with that of the community. They serve different functions and even if the traditional rituals are felt to be old and uncool, they still provide a glue that is important for the continuity of social identity and sense of place.

I mentioned earlier that the Bar-Mitzvah and Bat-Mitzvah is held when young adults are 13. When Jodie was that age, and every year after until he was 18, I waited to see when he was becoming ready for a ritual to mark the transition from being a youth to being a young man.

When Jodie was 18 I felt him changing, he appeared to be more solid in himself and was talking more about his own future and what he wanted for the next few years. At this time he was also preparing to leave home and go to university in America. I began to think about what I might do to acknowledge his changing and the transition he was in.

I had been working for fifteen years in Iceland leading weekend workshops and my work was coming to an end. My sponsor and I had dreamt for many years of organising an experience for men in the Icelandic countryside. The idea was that I would invite some men from the UK and that he would invite men he knew from Iceland and we would tour around the country in four-wheel-drive cars, camp out, be in nature and have time in groups to discuss issues relating to being male.

It occurred to me that this journey would be the most wonderful way to honour Jodie’s changes. The idea that the personal journey he was making in himself toward becoming a man would be supported by an outer journey really appealed to me. My sponsor and I spoke about it and it was agreed.

I asked Jodie if he would like to go to Iceland and be part of a men’s experience and said he could bring a friend. I didn’t tell him my agenda and he was very excited just to be part of the experience and spend time with his best friend Martyn.

Men’s Programme

I had been working with men in men’s on-going groups for 20 years in a programme I call Men for Men and I have been inspired by how much can be achieved when men support each others personal growth and development. An outcome of men sharing their concerns with other men is that a powerful warmth emerges and this generates feelings of trust and confidence. When men increase their comfort level by being with other men in this way it not only strengthens their identity as men but also how they manage themselves in their close relationships and in the world in general.

I invited a number of men from the UK who I liked and respected and told them of my plan. I said, at some point I would like them each to share with Jodie something important that they had learned from all their years of experience that they valued and thought would be useful to him in life and that this would be their gift to him. This particular group of men had never been together before and many of them didn’t know each other. It was a diverse group. One was a good friend from America who had his own electrical installation business. Two were friends and colleagues from my therapy world. One was an acupuncturist and another worked in finance in the City of London.

The Icelandic men were my business sponsor and his brother and another man who I had known for many years through the workshops and trainings I held in the UK and Iceland. The ages of the men ranged from mid thirties to sixty, most were in committed relationships and half had children of their own.

Including myself, Jodie and Martyn, we were eleven in all.

Starting the journey in Iceland

The group met for the first time at The Pearl (Perlan) restaurant in Reykjavik. The Pearl is a large glass and steel dome sitting upon huge silver geothermal water tanks on top of a hill overlooking the city. The whole restaurant rotates once every two hours and has incredible views of the city.

I wanted our first meeting place to be somewhere inspiring and unusual as a way of marking the importance of the trip as well as generate high expectations for the week. The Pearl certainly lived up to this.

The group was very excited about meeting and as we sat down to a memorable meal of Icelandic lamb our Icelandic hosts were full of information about Icelandic culture. One little detail I remember was that when you eat out in Iceland and you want more of the course you ordered, it is normal for the restaurant to give you more without charging you for it. I think this represents the kind of positive regard people have for others in Iceland.

I gave a little welcome speech and thanked our hosts for taking care of us and organising cars and equipment and wished everybody a good week.

The older men went back to the hotel to sleep and the younger men headed for the clubs with Jodie and Martyn in tow. It was July and being in the land of the mid-night sun meant that although it was late, the sun was still shining as we all went our separate ways.

Officially, Jodie and Martyn were too young to go into the clubs, but one of the Icelandic men was a genius at negotiating in just about any situation and got them in. It became clear to me that there were three different stage of life groups on the trip, Jodie and Martyn who were young adults, a group of energetic alpha adults in their thirties and a group of elders who were mid-forties and upwards.

I really appreciated this younger group of men taking Jodie and Martyn out on the town. It was part of what I wanted for them, an initiation of sorts with good men watching out for them. It wasn’t something a father could have possibly done.

Of course, us oldies were up at the agreed time to get the cars loaded, but the young men were deep in sleep and not easy to rouse, they were like zombies when they finally appeared. Gradually, over the day, little bits of information about the night before began to come out, such as how friendly the Icelandic girls were and how fantastic the clubs were and how they wanted to return one day. One of the big excitements was that Kevin Costner was in the club. Evidently he likes blondes and good salmon fishing. Or was it good blondes and salmon fishing. I will forever be grateful for the good time those men showed Jodie and Martyn that night.

We loaded up a Land Rover and a Japanese 4×4 with all of the camping equipment and our personal belongings and set off. It is always amazing to me how, within a few minutes of travelling in Iceland you see completely new and spectacular countryside. It is the most interesting and extraordinary landscape I have ever been in.

Passing through green, fertile farming country bathed in golden light to deserts of black sand and brilliant white and turquoise glaciers, we made our way anti-clockwise around Iceland from Reykjavic. The first night on the road we slept in a community centre. The sand on the beach nearby was black and the sky a brilliant orange. Jodie and Martyn saw a high grassy peak nearby and decided that was where they wanted to sleep.

This became the pulse of their connection to the group throughout the trip, to be in the group and separate at the same time. I noticed at times that I was disappointed. I had thought this was going to be a close bonding experience with Jodie and yet he was more connected to the Alpha males in the group than he was to me. It took me a while to realise that we were having a different bonding experience and that this had been the whole point of the trip. He clearly was separating and determining his world, making choices to respond to himself and use himself as a reference point, not me.

Looking back I now see clearly that when somebody close to you is going through a transition you are also going through one, that you are bonded together for better or worse as the saying goes. It hadn’t occurred to me that I was also going through a transition and that my world was also changing. Sometimes the role of parent can blind us to what is really being lived.

The next day we arrived at a sea port where a trip had been organised to take us on a fishing boat to a special bay along the coast. We were all excited to be on a boat and took turns steering, the sea was rough but the boat handled it well. The rock formations alone were worth the trip, they were incredibly dramatic. The place we were going to was used for fishing and for putting up people who were hiking. The only way to get to it was by boat or hiking. When we arrived at the drop off point we were driven in an old Russian jeep which had no brakes. The driver had to slide it into a rock each time he wanted to stop it. I noticed there were horses in a coral at the back of the building and after a great fish lunch we arranged to go horse riding.

Horse riding in Iceland is like nothing else in the world. It is said that the horses are descendents of a Mongolian breed. They are small, very tough and very strong. They are unique in that they have five gaits, the fifth being fast trot. We mounted and for the next hour raced all over the hills and wetlands at the end of the bay. We had fantastic fun and laughed until it hurt. Staying on these frisky and spirited horses was in itself a major achievement even for those of us who thought we knew what riding was about. Only in a place like Iceland, where the health and safety brigade doesn’t exist and a certain amount of acceptable danger is recognised as a necessary part of being alive, could you feel such a great sense of freedom.

After travelling across a region of conical shaped mountains, which looked man-made they were so perfect, and crossing a series of narrow mountain roads with steep drop-offs, we arrived in a beautiful green valley with a river running through it. For the first time we erected our communal tent, which we used to congregate in, and put up our personal tents for sleeping in. The big tent became a source of fun and teasing. It looked like a cross between a circus tent and the tent of a medieval knight. The valley was beautiful, all you could hear was the running of the river and the wind. It had an incredibly peaceful atmosphere about it and as luck would have it we were in the middle of a very rare Icelandic heat wave which meant we were warm and dry for the entire trip.

Ritual and sharing

One night when we were gathered around the fire I decided it was the right moment to talk about the main reason for the trip. I talked about the importance of having men in our lives and being able to share with them personal experiences as well as work interests. I talked about being proud of Jodie and hoped he would remember this trip as a way of marking his transition into becoming a man. I also talked about the importance of Martyn being there and how important it was for both of them to be on this journey together, to have friends who were also going through this life change. At first, they were embarrassed and giggled at the emotional tone of the moment, but they collected themselves together and managed to be really present and take in what was being said.

Sitting around the fire created a special atmosphere and gave great depth to the occasion. It was calming and led us into a reflective mood, appealing to our primitive instincts. I asked each of the men to say a few words of what they had learned in their lives that had been useful to them. One said ”Accept the things you cannot change, and have the courage to change the things you can”. Another said, “Failure stops being a failure when it becomes learning and when you decide to do something. Don’t wonder whether you should be doing it, just look at how to make it happen. When what you are doing stops being where your heart is, then it’s time to re-evaluate and create a new vision”. And another said “ It is important not to become stereotyped as a man burdened by responsibility, remember to play and to enjoy relationships with other men, this was an important part of what supported me in my growing up”.

The sharing was very personal and rich.

Jodie was also given a few gifts. One man gave him a stick he used for hiking, another a medallion and I gave Jodie and Martyn each a Buck hunting knife. This was to symbolise their becoming responsible.

Just as we ended our time of sharing we heard horses and looked up to see two men on horses at the top of the valley. Slowly they made their way down the steep side of the valley and rode toward us at a fast trot. I was fascinated at this spectacle as were our Icelandic hosts, there was nothing but wilderness either side of us for many miles and here they were at our fireside. For a moment I had the experience of how it felt to meet strangers away from civilisation. The excitement and caution of not knowing one another, the sizing up and watching for signals which would tell us how to place who we all were. Of course the Icelandic people had language to aide them in their assessment of the situation. They told me that the riders had been surprised to run into us and were fascinated as to what we were doing there.

They were very red faced, rugged, in their mid sixties, well built and solid looking. They wore leather riding boots, tweed britches and jacket. They were incredibly well turned out and eager to have social contact. They sat by the fire and took out liquor flacons and offered them around. It didn’t take them too long to realise we were not there to party. They stayed a while to enjoy the fire and told us that every summer they saddle up and ride for three weeks sleeping out and spending time together. They had planned to meet their wives to camp with them for a night or two but hadn’t found them yet. Just as they told us this a four-wheel-drive car appeared some distance from our camp and the reunion was complete, we bid them farewell and off they rode.

Ritual Journey, company of men. Jodie Roth Cooper second from left, Terry Cooper fourth from left (double-click image to enlarge)

There was a mythical quality of meeting these two men. They carried themselves and communicated as if they were centuries old, time travelers, and it was a pleasure to be in their company for this brief time. They had arrived about midnight when everything was saturated in a luminescent golden hue which made the whole experience of being with them dream like. When they left, the excitement of their presence and the connection we had had left us full and satisfied, as if something had completed itself.

The days that followed continued to be full of amazing and funny adventures. Jodie and Martyn visibly grew in their confidence to play and be themselves and it was refreshing to be around them to remind us of things about ourselves and to be in touch, close up, with the men of the future. It was in a way inspiring and reassuring, refreshing to be around them. We were reminded of the similarities and differences between them and ourselves when we were at their stage of life. And there was also something very affirming and satisfying about recognising more sharply through this experience the phase of life we were now in.

Looking back

Recently I visited Jodie in America in Vermont, where he lives and works as a commercial welder and sculptor. I was looking forward to asking him about his experience of the Icelandic trip. He was preoccupied with working on a nine foot tall metal sculpture of a man, for a local Chamber of Commerce arts initiative in which the artist’s works are publicly exhibited and then auctioned to raise money for local causes.

This was, in fact, the first time I had been with Jodie when he was in the middle of working on a big project. I was very excited by the whole process and in particular the workshop atmosphere. Outside of the workshop, there was deep snow covering the ground and it was cold and peaceful. Inside, the fire, sparks and illuminated smoke of the welding, grinding and cutting made its own art, turning the light into a dynamic dance of rich colours. Over the days I watched Jodie form an intimate relationship to his work.

It took me a couple of days of watching this relationship grow before I realised, here I am watching this man make a model of a man out of steel and I’m here to ask him about what he thought about his rite of passage in Iceland nine years ago. In a way I felt my question had already been answered by what I had seen and experienced. However, I wanted to hear from Jodie what he had to say about Iceland.

One morning as I was writing this paper I asked him what he had got from going to Iceland and in particular if it had meant anything to him. He said it had meant a lot to be with other men and, that for him, to be with Martyn and the men and the fact that there were no women present, had been really important.

Jodie’s comments reminded me of just how important relationships with men had been to me and how much I had worked at this. When I was younger I stereotyped other men as emotionally limited and thought they had nothing to offer me. I preferred the company of women. It was through my work with men that I really felt their value, and as we all struggled to figure out how to be our own person and what person we wanted to be, we transcended the boiling seas of the war of the sexes to find ourselves entering the calm flat waters of humanness, a very special place to be.

I was pleased that what Jodie valued most from going to Iceland was being with men. And I was thrilled at arriving to find him making a figure of a man.

Jodie Roth Cooper with Iron man sculpture (double-click image to enlarge)

Summary

Through visiting Jodie and writing this paper I’ve learned that there are many more layers to this rite of passage experience than I could have known about or written about at the time it took place. It is as if the experience continues to grow, like a snowball being rolled, it gathers more mass as time passes.

In Iceland, we had, for a short while, the feeling of what it might be like to live as a nomadic tribe. We had no programme or deadlines to meet. We cooked on the fire, bathed in streams and slept under canvas. We felt free to do what we wanted when we wanted and sought out adventure and play at every opportunity. We laughed, we rested, we argued, and we had to work out conflicts a number of times. We were all well outside of our comfort zone at least once during the ten days. For some it was riding, for others it was heights and for some the degree of social contact and sharing was, in itself, a challenge. We were all stretched and we all grew in our own way.

Being that it was a very physical journey it also became clear to us what it meant to be in our own particular phase of life, and what our strengths and limitations were. All of this made us more in touch with ourselves, more defined and more real, in a way.

The fact that I had organised a rite of passage for Jodie, was already an indication of the relationship I had with him. We played together and shared in many new and exciting experiences as he was growing up. As adults we shared a love for motorcycles and rode together in recent years. I have always tried to encourage who he is and what it is he would like to do with his life. And mostly I have been there for him.

But I must admit I was expecting something transformational to come out of the ritual in Iceland and I have at times pursued Jodie for feedback I wanted to hear, such as how incredible it was, which of course he has not said.

Being with him in Vermont this winter allowed me to stand back and look at where he has arrived at within himself and I see that at 27 his life is full of all the things I would have wanted for him. He has good, long-lasting male and female friends, he has a strong work ethic, he has found direction and seems clear about what he wants to do. He is intelligent, sincere and truthful. He is somebody who you would want to be with if you were ever in an emergency situation and he takes good care of himself. He has close male friends whom he confides in and he feels generally in charge of his life.

Many years have past since the rite of passage experience, and reflecting on it from my now perspective has shown me that you have to see the ritual within the context of the whole of a person’s life. A rite of passage is not a magical event which exists for only a particular moment in time to change a person’s life or transform them, it is continuity of an already existing value system. A celebration of what has already grown and what might be in the future. As the years go by and Jodie takes charge of his life I see an unfolding of a life, a flowering of values and qualities. No one thing determines the success of an individual life, it is many things. But from my own experience being supported and encouraged helps a lot.

It is important to remember the social aspect of the rite of passage ritual. For the most part these rituals are not chosen, they are given by the community. It is important for the communities’ survival and future that its young adults are shaped and encouraged toward greater responsibility. These rites always involve a challenge of some sort, the challenge for Jodie and Martyn was to go off and live with a group of older men for a week, most of whom they didn’t know.

Jodie’s rite of passage was a special experience. It was designed to be. The place, the men who were there, the natural world we immersed ourselves in, the kindness of the Icelandic people, the dramatic landscapes, learning to drive four-wheel-drive cars, diving naked into glacial rivers, white river rafting and, of course, the ritual we made as a group around the fire sharing experiences and gifts with Jodie and Martyn and the generous thoughts from everyone made it so. From what I can see, if a rite of passage is putting up some sign posts to say, “This way son,” It seems to be working.

From my own experience I see these events grow in significance over time. At 58, I look back, at people who were there for me when I was young, people who are no longer in my life now, and their value increases as time goes by.

I would like to end with a quote from, John Dewey, an American philosopher and educationalist from Vermont and one of the founders of the philosophical school of pragmatism and the father of functional psychology (1859-1952). The quote captures my philosophy of life and what I have tried to convey in telling Jodie’s story. “The self is not something ready-made, but something in continuous formation through choice of action.”

Terry Cooper (born in Southampton 1950) is a founder director of Spectrum, a psychotherapy practice and training centre in London, England. He can be contacted at http://www.spectrumtherapy.co.uk

Jodie Roth Cooper (born in London 1980). Is a graduate of Skidmore College, N.Y. He is a commercial welder and sculptor and can be contacted on www.jrcooper.net.

© Terry Cooper 2008

Here is my last article on the London menswear sales.  I hope they have been useful.  if there are any sales you would like to know about, email me on info@whatmakesaman.net

As with previous articles I have visted all of these sales.  As before, some of these brands have stores in locations other than the ones I have mentioned.   Check their websites for details.

Earlier sales articles are here, here, here and here.

Pal Zileri

Some of the best ready-to-wear Italian suits in London. Superb Italian wools? They have them. Radiant, sophisticated weaves and colours? They have them. Magnificent cut and obsessive attention to detail that moulds the suiit to the body? They have it. Go for last season’s suits, many of which are in rich, dark colours that suit the older man. Go also for their beautiful shirts, especially the stripes, which are fine colours on brilliant white cotton. If you want that special suit, I would go here first.

Details:

Pal Zileri
125 new Bond Street,
W1S 1DY

Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 9711

www.palzileri.com

Canali

Classic Italian suits in a sleek, tight cut which flatters the shoulder and upper chest. They hug the body and you might have to go up a chest size but for something this good, who cares. Canali have spent the last couple of seasons working with a grey/blue theme and produced a range that is pleasing to the eye, for both business and fun. Good discounts on everything, especially their ready-to-wear shirts, which are of excellent quality.

Details:

Canali
122 New Bond Street,
W1S 1DT

Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 5605

www.canali.it

Armani Collection

Personally I am pleased that Armani seem to be moving away from black as their theme colour. More shades of grey and blue in this collection. The suit cut seems to have got younger, slimmer and has a bit of an attitude, very sharp-edged. Discounts here are exceptionally generous.

Details:

Armani Collezioni
43 New Bond Street,
W1S 2SA

Tel: +44 (0)20 7491 9888

www.armanicollezioni.com

John Smedley

The photo does not do the brand justice. John Smedley are on a roll, with some great colours in their crew/roll neck sweater range. Classics that go casual or fit under a modern suit. A sale to make a priority of.

Details:

John Smedley
24 Brook Street,
W1K 5DG

Tel: +44 (0)20 7495 2222

www.johnsmedley.com

Gant

American preppy casual and the best chinos in town. Men of style know this as one of the best sales and hit it like vultures, it gets cleaned out really quickly. I would go here first.

Details:

Gant
107 New Bond Street,
W1S 1ED

Tel: +44 (0)20 7629 3313

www.gant.com

R.M. Williams

Handsome, rugged, well-made Australian casual clothes. Their ready-to-wear Jodphur boots are amongst the best. Go for the boots, shoes and their moleskin trousers.

Details:

R. M. Williams
102 New Bond Street,
W1S 1SS

Tel: +44 (0)20 7629 6222

www.rmwilliams.com

Grosvenor Shirts

Made to measure shirts, cottons (and other fabrics) from English mills, two week turnaround, modern cuts and collars, what more does a stylish man want? The icing on the cake is their prices, made-to-measure shirts from £90.00 in the sale. One of the best shirt brands, in and out of the sales.

Details:

Grosvenor
4 Grosvenor Street, Mayfair
W1K 4PX

Tel: +44 (0)20 7629 2782

www.grosvenorshirts.com

Hardrige

Sale now on at this stylish French made-to-measure shoemaker. Hardrige have a proprietary shoemaking process which makes classic shoes that are very light and with a structure that provides orthopaedic support for the foot. A secret known to clever European businessmen, available in England.

Details:

Hardrige
4 Avery Row, off Bond Street,
W1K 4AL

Tel: +44 (0)20 7355 1504

www.hardrige.com  

Alfred Dunhill

Sale now on at the new Alfred Dunhill store at Bourdon House. Regular readers will know that we are big fans of Alfred Dunhill and that their clothes go from strength to strength. Go for the superb tailoring, knitwear, leatherwear and leather accessories. If you have not yet been to the new store, go now. It is what gentleman’s shopping is supposed to be.

Details:

Alfred Dunhill,
Bourdon House,
22 Davies Street,
Mayfair,
W1K 3DJ

Tel: +44 (0) 845 458 0799

www.dunhill.com

Richard Gelding

Independent menswear store that specialises in good Italian menswear, including Canali. Their sale prices on Canali suits are very good, with up to £200.00 off some suit models.

Details:

Richard Gelding
27 North Audley Street (Oxford Street end)
Mayfair,
W1K 6WU

Tel: +44 (0)20 7629 0618

www.geldingmenswear.co.uk

Closet Case
Street style boutique that stocks lots of Dirk Bikkemberg (especially the belts), Neil Barrett and Dolce and Gabbana shoes. Also other cutting-edge designers. Big discounts on last season’s collections. Friendly and browser-friendly shop.

Details:

Closet Case
47 Brewer Street,
W1F 9UF

Tel: +44 (0)20 7734 1652
Email: closetcase@hotmail.co.uk

Holland and Holland
This one just in. Classic English luggage and clothes brand Holland and Holland are having a promotional sale. I know no more than that. More as I get it. Sale starts on the 5th January.

Details:

Holland and Holland
33 Bruton Street, Mayfair,
W1J 6HH

Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 4411

www.hollandandholland..com

Krizia

Italian luxury brand whose menswear is classic Italian cutting, executed in simple cuts and rich solid colours. As a man’s brand Krizia has had a bit of a low profile in recent years but there are bargains to be had in the sale.

Details:

Krzia
24-25 Conduit Street,
W1S 2XR

Tel: +44 (0)20 7491 4987

www.krizia.com

Eterno

Apologies for the quality of the photograph. Eterno are a Neapolitan brand whose stylish Italian ready-to-wear clothing is worn by media personalities and actors. Their shirts and their shoes are the draw here. The shirts have a full dramatic (big) collar, romantic swept-back cuffs and are in rich cottons and wonderful colours other brands have not even thought of. The shoes are sleek, long and outrageously sexy.

Details:

Eterno
19 Conduit Street,
W1S 2BH

Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 5603

www.eternolondon.co.uk

Huntsman

One of Savile Row’s finest tailors is having a sale of its Winter ready-to-wear collection.

Details:

Huntsman
11 Savile Row,
W1S 3PS

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7734 7441

www.h-huntsman.com

Dege and Skinner

Savile Row bespoke tailor and military tailor are having a sale of their ready-to-wear shirts. Their cotton shirts are reduced to £55.00

Details:

10 Savile Row,
W1S 3PF

Tel: +44 (0)20 7734 8794

www.dege-skinner.co.uk

William Hunt
Savile Row classic tailoring in William Hunt’s sale.

Details:

William Hunt
41 Savile Row
W1S 3QQ

Tel: +44 (0)20 7284 3257

www.williamhunt-savilerow.com

Ede and Ravenscroft

Classic ready-to-wear and Bespoke from Ede and Ravenscroft. Like Gieves and Hawkes, Ede and Ravenscroft are a by-word for superb quality, beautiful wools and classic fabrics and a structured suit-cut that will flatter almost any man. Suits, shirts and ties in the sale.

Details:

Ede and Ravenscroft
8 Burlington Gardens
W1S 3ET

Tel: +44 (0)20 7405 3906

www.edeandravenscroft.com

Lyle and Scott

Scottish knitwear manufacturer who make hip Polo shirts. Brit-pop style, good colours and joyful styling. They also have a retro range, as well as complementary knitwear.

Details:

Lyle and Scott
40 King Street,
WC2E 8JS

Tel: +44 (0)20 7379 7190

www.lyleandscott.com

Paul Smith

The master of quirky British style has his annual sale. A sale that gets a lot of traffic very quickly. Go soon.

Details:

Paul Smith
40-44 Floral Street,
WC2E 9DG

Tel: +44 (0)20 7379 7133

www.paulsmith.co.uk

Ted Baker

Stylish menswear for the younger man. Great ideas like the “Endurance” crease-proof suit have propelled Ted Baker into the first league of menswear brands. Original, colourful fun clothes, with a nod to classic British styling.

Details:

Ted Baker
9 Floral Street,
WC2E 9HW

Tel: +44 (0)20 7836 7808

www.tedbaker.co.uk

Adolfo Dominguez
Distinctive Spanish designs and loosely structured menswear from this luxury Spanish brand. I always find that their clothes are of surprisingly good quality and the romantic Spanish cut makes them drop-dead stylish on the right man.

Details:

Adolfo Dominguez
43 Shelton Street, Covent Garden
WC2H 9HJ

Tel: +44 (0)20 7836 5013

www.adolfo-dominguez.com

J. Simons

Classic Ivy League and retro American style. These guys may have a tiny shop but they have excellent taste. Flannel shirts, chinos, classic leather jackets, “Woolrich” parkas sit alongside Fruit-of-the-Loom t-shirts and penny loafers. Timeless preppy clothes.

Details:

J Simons American Clothing
2 Russell Street, Covent Garden,
WC2B 5JD

Tel: +44 (0)20 7379 7353

www.Jsimons.website.orange.co.uk

Here is Part 4 of the London menswear sales. As before, I visited all of these sales except the one at Holland and Holland. Also as before, some of these brands have other stores, so visit their websites to check.

The earlier London menswear sales articles are here, here and here.

Farlows

Located in St James. Farlows are one of London’s most prestigious country clothing outfitters. Patronised by HRH Prince Charles, Farlows clothes, are well-constructed, rugged and have bags of English country style. Go to this sale for the superb heavy cable-stitch sweaters, tweed sports jackets and of course corduroys.

Details:

Farlows
9 Pall Mall,
SW1Y 5NP

Tel: + 44 (0)20 207 484 1000

www.farlows.co.uk

William Evans

Similar to Farlows, country clothes in the heart of St James. I was here earlier in the year and their check shirts, gloves, gentlemen’s scarves are very good. Their accessories are particularly distinctive and very much worth a viewing.

Details:

William Evans
67a St James Street,
SW1A 1PH

Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 0415

www.williamevans.com

Swaine, Adeney and Brigg

One of England’s finest luxury brands, there are deep discounts on their well-made menswear in this sale. Go also for the superb leather luggage and accessories.

Details:

Swaine Adeney Brigg
54 St James Street,
SW1A 1JT

Tel: +44 (0)20 7409 7277

www.swaineadeney.co.uk

Trickers

We wrote about Trickers before here and regular readers know that we think their benchmade shoes are superbly well-made. There are very deep discounts in this sale. I would buy their brogues and their country shoes, for which they have no equal. The service here is gentlemanly and understated, the best of England.

Details:

Trickers
67 Jermyn Street, St James,
SW1Y 6NY

Tel: +44 (0)20 7930 6395

www.tricker.com

Crockett and Jones

The favourite of the well-dressed, well-travelled man. These are beautiful (and beautifully made shoes) for the man who understand the power of good style. Great value to buy and cherish, they will last forever. The black monkstrap derbys are the pinnacle of style,… and in the sale.  We wrote about Crockett and Jones here

Details:

Crockett and Jones
69 Jermyn Street, St James
SW1Y 6PF

Tel: +44 (0)20 7976 2684

www.crockettandjones.co.uk

Turnbull and Asser

The legendary shirtmaker with a history almost as long as the British Establishment. However their shirts are anything but stuffy, with good colours and modern designs. As a big man, I always appreciate Turnbull and Asser for their wide selection of shirts in larger collar sizes. I also like their ties. Like Trickers, a very gentlemanly shopping experience, the staff here are amongst the most knowledgeable and unassumingly helpful in London.

Details:

Turnbull and Asser
71/72 Jermyn Street, St James
SW1 6PF

Tel: +44 (0)20 7808 3000

www.turnbullandasser.co.uk

Edward Green

I took this photo before Edward Green had opened for business but their sales are always a cornucopia of fine shoes in classic styles. Their craftsman-made shoes are constructed from some of best leather that has ever been turned into shoes.

Details:

Edward Green
75 Jermyn Street, St James
SW1P 6NP

Tel: +44 (0)20 7839 0202

www.edwardgreen.com

Harvie and Hudson

Gentlemen’s tailor whose ready-to-wear English-cut suits are very competitively priced. Also in the sale are their well-made, finely-finished English shirts in good cotton, sourced to their specification. This shop is stuffed with good-taste bargains.

Details:

Harvie and Hudson
77 Jermyn Street, St James,
SW1Y 6NP

Tel: +44 (0)20 7930 3949

www.harvieandhudson.com

Polistas

English brand that makes well-tailored Polo gear. Great sale for the Polo enthusiast but also for their good quality, colourful casual clothes. Would you call them après-Polo clothes? The shop is a bit of a Tardis and there is a big range here, especially in the below-ground department.

Details:

Polistas
12-13 Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly,
W1J 0PH

Tel: +44 (0)20 7495 6603

www.polistas.com

N. Peal

The finest cashmere in London, and beloved of Cary Grant. If you want that 40’s Clark Gable/Cary Grant/Ronald Colman look here is the place to get it. You know the look, stylish, wealthy, comfortable in your own skin, photo shot in black and white. Sumptuous knitwear, luxurious manly and distinctive. Buy everything they have got, because nothing else is remotely as good.

Details:

N. Peal
37-40 Burlington Arcade, Mayfair
W1J 0QD

Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 6485

www.npeal.com

Cheaney

Cheaney get maximum points for discounting their new range, which includes their Italian-influenced derbys, which are slick and striking. I screwed this photo slightly because just out of shot are Cheaney’s new raised-welt long-line monkstraps which are very cool. Cheaney’s prices are always competitive relative to other benchmade shoes and in the sale will be even better. They guys in this shop are friendly and the service is warm and helpful. We wrote about Cheaney here. 

Details:

Cheaney,
163 New Bond Street,
W1S 2Q

Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 9499

www.cheaney.co.uk

Burberry

Going from strength to strength, both Burberry and its young hipster range Burberry Prorsum, are selling more every quarter. The sale is now on.

Details:

Burberry
21-23 new Bond Street,
W1S 2RD

Tel: +44 (0)20 7968 0000

www.burberry.com

Corneliani

In my opinion one of the most stylish luxury menswear brands in the world. Corneliani have invested in the old Beale and Inman shop in New Bond Street, turning it into a cool-looking store full of classic Italian clothes. Their suit cut is slightly fuller than their peers (Pal Zileri, Canali) and sits better on the bigger man. It is simple really, a Corneliani suit makes you look like a star. Their clever, sophisticated upscale casual wear is also in the sale.

Details:

Corneliani
131-133 New Bond Street,
W1S 2TB

Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 7921

www.corneliani.com

More sales here in Part 5.