“Luxury is about design not cost”

                                                David Miracca

                                                Jeweller and Designer

Goldsmiths Fair is the annual exhibition of jewellery by the best independent English designer jewelers. 

Now in its 26^th Year the fair shows the works of the alumni of the Goldsmiths Guild.  It is the single best opportunity to meet artisan jewellers, discuss their work, how they create it and to buy unique pieces of fine art jewellery.  If you are looking to commission a unique piece of jewellery here is the place to do it.

I have attended the fair before but this is the first time I have attended on behalf of What Makes a Man.  I looked for those jewellers who were producing exciting men’s jewellery.  Here are my picks.

      

David Miracca

I am indebted to David for the quote which opens this article.  David is a champion of bespoke jewellery and designs fine jewellery in precious stones, gold and silver.  He is currently in the process of designing a fine jewellery range of men’s cufflinks.  For more about David’s work and process please have a look at his website.

Details

Address:	5 St Cross Street, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8UA
Telephone:	44 (0) 207 242 9380
Email:	contact@davidmiracca.com
Website:	http://www.davidmiracca.com/

   

     

William Cheshire

 

William Cheshire’s bespoke jewellery is bold and exciting.  William produces designer men’s jewellery in precious metals that is widely sought after.  He has designed men’s jewellery for Savile Row tailor Mark Powell and worked with Oswald Boateng.  He is very much a modern stylist of fine jewellery.  These pictures tell the story:

 

I was struck by how manly these rings are.  The Casino ring (on the left of picture) reminds me of Italian men’s rings, extravagant and beautiful but with an English finesse and crispness that elevates it to the realm of the exceptional.  The Continental (on the right of picture) manages to be manly and quirky at the same time.  Here is another picture of the Continental, this time in 18cwt Palladium.

 

Both of these rings can be created as bespoke wedding rings, for men and women. 

Here is another piece of William’s, a tie-pin in white gold.

 

William’s jewellery is modern and edgy and fits in perfectly with the slightly dangerous, carelessly fashionable look that is being worn at the moment but it is also timeless beautiful, with more than a nod to old-style masculine jewellery. 

When we spoke William talked about how he would like to work with Norton and Sons, the Savile Row tailor.  I would really like to see him design a collection for Nick Hart, Savile Row’s insouciant soulboy.  I think that Nick Hart’s sexy, sharp style at Spencer Hart would be a perfect match for William’s manly sexy jewellery.

William has a show lounge off Hatton Garden in London, you can call in (by appointment) and discuss your commissions with him there. William is perceptive, considerate and really cares about the pieces he creates.  If you want jewellery that is intensely personal, William is your man.   

Details:

Address:	Studio B2, Black Bull Yard, 24-28 Hatton Wall, London EC1N 8JH
Telephone:	44 (0) 20 7242 9431
Email:	info@williamcheshire.com
Website:	http://www.williamcheshire.com/

   

David Webdale

 

David produces elegant romantic jewellery in gold and solid silver.   His jewellery has a luxurious organic look and feel.  Working with architectural shapes and 18cwt solid silver, David has been producing men’s belt buckles, cufflinks and other pieces.  Here is a picture:

 

The curved sinuous look of the belts is carried through into cufflinks which reflect the look of the belts.  The fine workmanship and beautiful metal of these make them ideal links for formal wear.   Here are some pictures:

 

David Webdale’s work has a lushness that will appeal to the romantic man, anyone who has ever fancied themselves as pirate or a highwayman.  David undertakes bespoke commissions and is skilled at making exciting jewellery from customer’s original ideas.

Details:

Telephone:	07783777812
Email:	david@djwjewellery.com
Website:	http://www.djwjewellery.com/

   

  

Heather O’Connor

 

Heather produces modern silver jewellery that is bold, clean and manly.  Her cufflinks have clean straight lines and crisp sharp edges.  By combining silver with attractive woods such as Ash and Hazel, Heather has produced jewellery that is modern, organic and witty.  Here is a picture:

Even more original are her cufflinks made of silver and concrete.  These are very masculine, solid and stylish at the same time.  Original cufflinks for the man’s man.  Here is a picture:

 

If you are a man with a modern style, Heather would be a great jeweler to go to for your commission.

Details:

Address:	401 ½ Studios, 401 Wandsworth Road, London, SW8 2JP
Telephone:	07944 865259
Email:	hoc@heatheroconnor.com
Website:	http://www.heatheroconnor.com/

     

    

Clive Burr

 

Clive produces design-led fine jewellery in Gold and Silver at his studio in Clerkenwell, London.  He has produced beautiful individual pieces and ranges for such world-class brands as Alfred Dunhill, Libery, Asprey and Bulgari.  Here is a picture of two pairs of exquisite gold and enamel cufflinks.

 

    

Details:

Address:	Berry House, 1st Floor, 4 Berry Street, London EC1V 0AA
Telephone:	44 (0) 20 7608 0182
Email:	cliveburr@btconnect.com
Website:	http://www.cliveburr.co.uk/

   

    

Tim Lukes

 

Tim Lukes works mostly in precious metals and often takes his inspiration from nature.  I really like these superb cufflinks, which catch the eye and have a magnificent style.  The links are made of a foil of 24cwt gold, sealed within a clear acrylic inset.  They have a wonderful glint and glitter to them, are dressy and stylish.  An original and cleaver idea, beautifully executed. 

Tim also makes these finely detailed animal head cufflinks, in solid silver.  Once again, very original in their production and very finely made.

  

And again, these elegant and finely detailed salamanders

 

   

Details:

Address:	Gauge Gallery, 26 Fore Street, St Ives, Cornwall.  TR26 1HE
Telephone:	44 (0) 1736 795107
Email:	info@gaugegallery.co.uk
Website:	http://www.gaugegallery.co.uk/

     

Fred

Fred are Fred Rich and Adrian Butcher and for me they were one of the highlights of the show.   They work in gold and enamel and had some very original jewellery for men.   They produce lapel pins which are eye-catching and extravagantly stylish.  Here is one of their jewelled pins for men.      

 

This piece is perfect as a lapel-pin on a tuxedo. 

Fred also make animal-motif jacket pins for men.  Here is a shark in gold and enamel.

Fred were the only jewelers at the fair producing fine enamel jewellery for men.  Their work is original, colourful and very individual.  Extravagant jewellery for the man who knows his own style.

Details:

Address:	Fred Rich enamel design, PO Box 388, Croydon CR9 5RE
Telephone:	44 (0) 20 8657 0406
Email:	Info@fredrichenameldesign.com
Website:	http://www.fredrichenameldesign.com/

  

Alistair McCallum

Alistair’s work is very different from that of Fred, but equally captivating.  Alistair works in the Japanese metalworking technique of Mokugame Gane.  This involves soldering together a “sandwich” of different metals.  A pattern is then produced by breaking through the top layer to reveal the colours and patterns of the metal beneath. 

Alistair is a master of this technique and produces finely-crafted unique cufflinks in shades of black, ivory and gray.  They are elegant, reserved and very beautiful.  They look magnificent on a white shirt and the effect is like wearing Japanese art.    

 

Alistair has these for sale and will make a unique pair for you, as a commission.

Details:

Address:	Alistair McCallum, 41 Boyne Road, Lewisham, London, SE13 5AL
Telephone:	44 (0) 20 8463 9441
Email:	mccallumalistair@aol.com
Website:	http://www.whoswhoingoldandsilver.com/

  

Marianne Forest

 

Marianne is famous for her timepiece jewellery, which ranges from the watches and pocket watches shown here, through to huge public art-works. 

 

The pieces on display were truly beautiful, with unique faces of Marianne’s own design and finishes that mark them out as hand-made jewellery.  They also have a real heft to them, they feel “right”, they have that solidity that good men’s jewellery often has. 

 

Hell, you do need me to tell you that these watches are superb, just look at the pictures below and your own good instincts will tell you.

 

  

Details:

Address:	Marianne Forrest,  Studios 3 & 8 Coach House Cloisters,Hitchin Street, Baldock, Herts, SG7 6AE
Telephone:	44 (0) 1462 491 992
Email:	info@marianneforrest.com
Website:	http://www.marianneforrest.com/

   

     

Individual Style

We live in a world where we are expected to absorb, accept and share more and more information.  As a consequence personal style is becoming more and more important.  Commissioning your own jewellery ideas into reality is one way of building your personal style.  The jewelers listed here are the people to help you produce your own unique jewellery.  

    

The Goldsmiths Guild

The Goldsmiths Guild is the professional association of goldsmiths and jewelers in England.  They host the Goldsmiths fair each year in their magnificent Guildhall in the City of London.  Their website is http://www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/

They also administer a directory of qualified Goldsmiths and jewelers at http://www.whoswhoingoldandsilver.com/  

If you are looking for a jeweler to commission, this directory gives a short visual tour of each Jeweller’s work and all necessary contact details.  I recommend it as a start point for commissioning fine jewellery and metalwork. 

Goldsmiths Fair 2008 continues until the 5th October, 2008, at Goldsmiths Hall, details are here